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If you found a rabbit that has been living outside, you should bring it to a special "rabbit savvy" vet who can give the rabbit a thorough physical exam, including possible diagnostic tests and shots. Because the rabbit has been living a stressful life (outdoors), and will be undergoing more stress as it adjusts to life with you, your vet may recommend a dose of subcutaneous fluids or gut motility drugs or other preventative treatments to get the rabbit safely through its adjustment period. The vet can also advise you about how to care for the rabbit. If you notice any signs of ill health in the rabbit, you should bring the rabbit in immediately or as soon as possible (depending on the severity of the signs) -- consider a 24/7 emergency vet hospital if a "rabbit savvy" vet isn't available.

In the mean time, set the rabbit up in a safe place immediately:

  • Consider using a dog crate, a dog exercise pen, a hallway blocked-off at both ends with tall baby gates, a closet blocked-off with a tall baby gate (don't close the rabbit in a closet -- it's too dark and there's not enough air flow), or you can quickly rabbit-proof a room in your home until you can set up something more permanent. (Watch out for poisonous plants, wires and cords, paper and wood products, things the rabbit could jump/climb on and fall from, things the rabbit could fall in or get stuck in, and watch to make sure the rabbit isn't eating any carpeting or fabrics).
  • Make sure the rabbit always has access to fresh, cool water (a heavy bowl or crock can work fine; some rabbits like to throw lighter dishes around and make a mess).
  • Go out and buy some grass hay immediately (like timothy, brome, orchard grass, Bermuda, meadow grass, or oat). Alfalfa hay is not suitable for healthy adult rabbits, but if the rabbit is a juvenile or looks underweight, pick up some alfalfa hay as well. From now on, feed the rabbit unlimited supplies of hay. If the rabbit snubs the hay, you must research ways to encourage hay consumption because rabbits need hay to maintain healthy teeth and guts.
  • Provide a place for the rabbit to toilet, like a cat's litter box, a Rubbermaid tub, etc. Rabbits often like to back up against the wall of their litter boxes, so a flat tray (like a baking sheet) may not keep your walls clean, but still might be better than nothing until you can get a litter box. Afterwards, rabbit urine stains can be cleaned off flat surfaces (like walls, wood flooring, etc.) in a snap with white vinegar; carpeting is harder to clean, but there are many products out there that work (such as Orange Oxy). Fill the litter box with old newspaper, hay, the compressed paper pellets sold as wood stove starter pellets, aspen wood chips, or commercial small animal litters (like Carefresh).
  • Give the rabbit a few everyday household items to play with like the cardboard tubes inside toilet paper and paper towels (these are safe to eat), hard plastic baby toys ("baby keys" are a common favourite), a Slinky (hang one inside the enclosure), an old Yellow Pages (these are safe to eat), blankets or hand towels (these are NOT safe to eat), a plush animal toy (these are NOT safe to eat), or a small ball (a plush ball for picking up and throwing, or a hard plastic ball for nudging -- these are NOT safe to eat).
  • Start slowly introducing the rabbit to what will be its normal diet (that is, limited daily supplies of a high-quality pellet and fresh greens). Any change in a rabbit's diet, even a change for the better, can lead to illness. Good fresh greens to start with include Romaine, dandelion, parsley, carrot greens, and dill -- introduce them one at a time and in tiny portions at first, then day by day slowly increasing the portion size, watching for signs of ill health, then after a week try the next new green, again starting with tiny portions at first, etc. Shop for a high-quality pellet as soon as possible (that very day or the next, but spend some time researching what makes a good pellet first), and then slowly introduce it into the diet, little by little, watching for signs of ill health. Treats (like fruit, or vegetable, like carrot) should be limited to a small bite a day at most.
  • Include a hidey-hole in the rabbit's enclosure (a plain cardboard box will do; cut two holes in the sides, to increase the rabbit's sense of security). Try to minimize the rabbit's anxiety by reducing loud noises and chaos. Let her get used to her new surroundings on her terms: don't force cuddles or socializing. Don't disturb her at all if she's in her litter box or hidey-hole, unless it's an emergency.

Until you see the vet, closely observe the rabbit's behaviour and appearance. Do as much of a physical exam and grooming tasks as the rabbit will allow. If the rabbit starts to panic or struggle, let her go because a struggling rabbit is a danger to herself. If you think the rabbit needs immediate kind of treatment or care, but she's struggling with you and you don't have experience with difficult rabbits, bring her to the vet immediately.

Start researching how to care for a rabbit! The related question below will tell you more details and helpful links.

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14y ago

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