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Use a miter box or a miter saw.

First, some assumptions:

A) The moulding used has a 45 degree "spring" or slope.

B) the corner you are cutting, inside or outside is 90 degrees.

There are 2 ways to do this, depending on whether you have a simple mitre saw, or one with compound mitre/bevel capability.


1) Using a mitre saw ( no compound bevel capability):

Place the "top" (ceiling) edge of the moulding closest to you, on the saw bed.

Place the "bottom" edge on the fence of the saw.

Position the molding at a 45 degree slope between the bed and the fence.

The molding is now bridging the bed of the saw to the fence at 45 degrees.

Set the saw mitre to 45 degrees and cut the molding

Cut.

For the mating piece, reverse the blade miter and bevel, and cut with the material pointing from from the opposite side of the blade.

2) Using a compound mitre saw (compound miter & bevel capability):

Place the back of the moulding flat on the bed of the saw.

The "bottom" edge goes against the fence

The "top" (ceiling) edge is closest to you.


Set the saw miter to 35.3 degrees

Set the blade tilt (bevel) to 30 degrees.

Cut.

For the mating piece, reverse the blade miter and bevel, and cut with the material pointing from from the opposite side of the blade.


If the angle, or "spring" of the moulding is not 45 degrees ( 38 degree moulding is quite common, fro example), or: If the corner is not 90 degrees, then you will need a table to work with.

These may be purchased here:

http:/www.compoundmiter.com/chart.html#cr-mld-table

I also found free ones here:

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60354


And, Remember to protect your fingers!


Inside corners should be coped not mitered in good quality work. Butt one piece to the corner. Cut the other at 45*, which will give you a line along the face of the moulding. Using a coping saw (hence the name), cut along this line at a right angle to the length of the piece. Butt this second piece to the first to complete the joint. If the corner is obtuse then you will have to over-cut with the coping saw to achieve a tight fit. This method obviates an inside mitered corner opening when nailed up.
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