to adjust the automatic decompression cylinoid you'll need to remove the gas tank. first you'll have to remove the sadle/seat. towards the back of the sadle there are two hex nuts, on either side. a rachet fitted with a 10mm metric socket will do the trick. then you'll have to remove the left side cover plate as well as the top cover plate for the battery box. if i remember correctly it's an 8mm for the left side and a phillips for the battery cover. next you'll need to disconnect the battery, the black/negative wire first and then the red. when re-installing the red first then the black. no need to remove the battery, just diconnect for safety. after disconnecting the battery your next step will be to disconnect the spedometer cable, it disconnects from the right side of the bike atop the gear box and is destinguishable by it's larger size and spring-like covering. after disconnecting the spedo cable use some blue painters tape to cover the opening. (no need for foreign matter getting where it doesn't belong) next you may want to grab some pliers to aid in the removal of the fuel line. at the bottm of the petcock disconnect the fuel line (i would leave the clasp on the the base of the fuel line so that you have it there for re-installation. after that remove the compression line at the same place and in the same manner. (it's the smaller of the two lines.) COVER THEM BOTH AT THE END WITH BLUE PAINTERS TAPE. you should have all three line disconnected and coverd by now, but they should still be connected at the carborater. (the other lines coming from the carb are emissions lines, don't worrie about those) now you'll have to unbolt the gas tank. again you'll need the 10mm socket. undo the hex nuts and set your bushings aside. lift up, pull out and to the left...slowly, to remove the tank. the spedometer wiring assembly is still attached under and to the the tank. once you have the tank free detache the wiring assembly. set your tank on a clean soft surface. your automatic decompression cylinoid is now visable on the right side of the bike above the cylinder cover and next to the spark plug cap on the let of the bike is how to adjust it. in the clymer manual it says to adjust it so that the lever lifts from the engine between 3-5mm but i've heard that the suzuki bike model manual says 1". it probably depends on the year of the bike. calling suzuki and asking them about that specifacation would be the best bet. you can get the number for suzuki from thier website. re-assemble your bike in the reverse fasion.
The 1997 Suzuki LS650 Savage gets about 50+ miles per gallon
1800 ml
10w30 info from the owners manual
Since the LS650 is a single cylinder with only one spark plug neither term really applies to it.
It is a motorcycle made by Suzuki, known as the LS650 or Savage, which is a single cylinder 650cc motorcycle, cruiser. Here is a link with pictures: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_LS650_Savage
Try Harley Sportster Screamin Eagle slip-on. Helps eliminate backfires too.
The manual of the Suzuki 650 Savage states that the required amount of fork oil is 441 cc or 14.91 oz. The recommended kind of fork oil is DEXRON ATF or SAE 15W.
To drain the oil in a 1999 Suzuki Savage LS650, first, ensure the motorcycle is on a level surface and the engine is warm for better oil flow. Remove the oil filler cap and the drain plug located at the bottom of the engine using a wrench to allow the oil to flow out completely into a suitable container. Once the oil has drained, replace the drain plug securely, refill with new oil through the filler cap, and check the oil level with the dipstick to ensure it’s at the correct level.
i own a 87 suzuki savage i would expect it is the same steps there is two screws that hold the seat on there located towards the rear of the drivers seat not the passengers seat after removeing the two screws the seat should lift free there is one screw under the drivers seat that holdes the passenger seat on remove that and push the passenger seat forward and lift
thats not good. it could be to much oil in the crank case, gasoline in the oil, or bad rings and oil seals. my savage did this and i drained the oil. when draining the oil my bike didn't have a drain plug low enough so i pulled the stator cover tho air box issue was immediately fixed. then use a cleaning fuel additive to make sure there is no residue any where.
I have a Clymer Suzuki LS650 manual '86-'04 (Copyright 2005) and on page 277 it says to add 441 cc (14.91 oz) of DEXRON ATF or SAE 15W fork oil. It also says to hold the fork assembly verticle and use an oil level gauge to get the correct level of 75mm (2.95 in).
Cylinder head nuts (9 mm) 29-3321-24 Cylinder head-to-cylinder nuts (8 mm) 23-2716-19 Cylinder-to-crankcase nuts 8-126-8.5