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It's been a while since I've seen it, but I think I can answer this. I believe that Light touched the notebook before L switched them out. Then Light tried to kill L with the fake Deathnote, took off, and at the end was able to see Ryuuk because he'd touched the Deathnote, and was able to see Ryuuk.

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Q: Deathnote The Last Name. At the end L says he switched the Notebooks from the second day onwards from when Misa dug it up. if he did switch it then how did light see Ryuk at the end?
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