How do you change the front axles on a 4WD 1993 Jeep Cherokee Sport?

Answer 1

remove hub caps , loosen axle nut first ( all b4 u jack it up ) , jack it up , take the tire off ,remove brake caliper ,remove brake rotor , remove the axle hub nut ,unbolt the assembly from the steering knuckle & carefully tap it out of the knuckle bore, you'll need a 13ml wrench with 12 point box end to remove the 3 bolts that hold the wheel bearing in , then if the axle sticks in the hub splines push it out of the hub with a puller ,once the hub & bearing assembly has been removed the axle shaft can be pulled straight out of the housing .

Answer 2

# Vise # Hammer # Punch # Grease gun # Shop Rags # Latex Gloves (Optional) Universal joints are a vital link in your vehicle's driveline. If these joints fail, you could be left stranded. Fortunately this can be prevented through periodic maintenance and/or replacement. A bad U-joint can most commonly be detected by a metallic clunking sound when the vehicle is placed in gear. This indicates play in the U-joint and should be investigated as soon as possible. Other symptoms of a failing U-joint are vibrations from the drive shaft, noticeable especially between 25 and 35 mph; shudder on acceleration and/or squeaking noises. To check a Universal Joint for play, raise the vehicle and support the rear axle with jack stands. Place the vehicle in neutral and set the parking brake. Now rotate the drive shaft back and forth by hand, checking the joint for any play if any play is detected, the U-joint will have to be replaced. Also look for signs of rust. This usually means a U-joint that has no grease and is ready to be replaced soon. There are two, basic, types of Universal Joint, not surprisingly called Type A and Type B. The only real difference is the clips used to retain the bearing cups; otherwise the replacement procedure is the same. Type A, Figure 1, has a C-Clip that sits in a groove inside the yoke to hold the bearing caps in place. These are removed by using a small tip punch or chisel to pop the C-Clips out. Type B, Figure 2, has a Spicer Snap Ring that sits in a groove outside the yoke to hold the beraing caps in place. These are removed by using a pair of pliers to squeeze the e-clip together and pull it out. Most times you will need to tap the bearing cap in somewhat to make removing the Spicer Snap Ring easier. You don't have to worry about trying to save these clips. You get a set of each type when you buy a new U-joint. * Follow these instructions carefully. Read and be sure you understand them before you begin. * Gather together all of your tools and supplies before you begin. * Allow plenty of time to do the job so you don't have to hurry. * Remember that these are general instructions. For more detailed instructions pertaining to your specific vehicle, consult an appropriate repair manual. * Safety is important whenever you're working around machinery. Beware of hot objects, sharp instruments and hazardous materials. * Don't substitute tools unless you're sure you won't compromise either your safety or the performance of your vehicle. * Never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Use jack stands to support the vehicle while you work. Work on a solid, level surface. Never jack a car up on dirt or grass. # Remove all the snap rings (or C-Clips) that retain bearings in yoke and drive shaft. # Index-mark, Figure 3, the drive shaft components Figure 3.

NOTE: If components are not marked and therefore installed incorrectly, a driveline imbalance and vibration can occur. # Place U-joint in a vise. # Select a wrench socket with an outside diameter slightly smaller than the U-joint bearings. Select another wrench socket with an inside diameter slightly larger than the U-joint bearings. # Place the sockets at opposite bearings in the yoke so that the smaller socket becomes a bearing pusher and the larger socket becomes a bearing receiver when the vise jaws come together, Figure 4. Close vise jaws until both the bearings are free of yoke and remove bearings from the cross or spider. # If bearings will not come all the way out, close vise until bearing in receiver socket protrudes from yoke as much as possible without using excessive force. Then remove from vise and place that portion of bearing that protrudes from yoke between vise jaws. Tighten vise to hold bearing and drive yoke off with a soft hammer. # To remove opposite bearing from yoke, replace in vise with pusher socket on exposed cross journal with receiver socket over bearing cup. Then tighten vise jaws to press bearing back through yoke into receiving socket. # Remove yoke from drive shaft and again place protruding portion of bearing between vise jaws. Then tighten vise to hold bearing while driving yoke off bearing with soft hammer. # Turn spider or cross ¼ turn and use the same procedure to press bearings out of drive shaft

Assembly: # If old parts are to be reassembled, pack bearing cups with Universal Joint grease. Do not fill cups completely or use excessive amounts as over-lubrication may damage seals during reassembly. Use new seals. # If new parts are being installed, check new bearings for adequate grease before assembling. # With the pusher (smaller) socket, press one bearing part way into drive shaft. Position spider into the partially installed bearing. Place second bearing into drive shaft. Fasten drive shaft in vise so that bearings are in contact with faces of vise jaws, Figure 5. Some Spiders are provided with locating lugs that must face toward drive shaft when installed. # Press bearings all the way into position and install snap rings or retainer plates. # Install bearings in yoke in the same manner. When installation is completed, check U-joint for binding or roughness. If free movement is impeded, correct the condition before installation in vehicle. If there is a little binding, try striking the yoke with a brass or plastic hammer. It will be somewhat stiff, but that's okay.

Answer 3

First remove the brake rotors and there is a four bolt flange that holds the axle into the axle tube. Remove the nuts from the back side of the dust cover. The axles still will ned some persuasion to come out but they will. Know this, the bearings WILL come out with the axle and will need to be replaced as well as the seal. The bearings will need to be pressed off and the new ones pressed on. Your local parts store that has a machine shop can press them off/on for you. Be extra careful with new bearings as they will come apart if you are not careful. The seal is on the outside of the bearing so it will be on the axle already when they are done putting the bearings on (or it better be). One last thing, pay attention to the flange when you put it back in, there is a small cut out on one side of it that is to go around the ABS sensor and it will only go in with the cut out on that side.

Answer 4

This job is probably best done by a professional, but if you'd like to take it on, there is an explanatory link in the related links.