With the proper cap configuration on the DC cable, yes it physically can be done. If there is a DC load connected to the end of the DC cable, the load would be destroyed by the application of AC voltage being applied to it. Why anyone would consider doing this type of procedure is anyone's guess.
Not typically. Domestic service in many areas of Japan is similar to US Network services in that it provides two phases, like ABN to a service, then BCN to the next, etcetera. There are appliances in the US designed for Network services; but then there is the question of the plug at the end of the cord -- will it match both physically and electrically. It is best to first identify where in Japan you want plug the appliance and second find out available electric service parameters -- they still have some DC over there...
If you are talking about the standard cigarette lighter socket in an automobile, you can only use devices that can run on 12 volts DC ((most modern cars) within the rated AMP load capacity. A standard house outlet is designed for 110 volt AC devices that have a 110 volt AC source
AC - Alternating Current, same thing that comes out of a wall socket DC - Direct Current, batteries. <<>> When a device has AC/DC on its name plate, it can work off either of the two voltages. Many portable radios have this function. When the radio is plugged into AC, the voltage is transformed to the working DC voltage and then rectified to a DC voltage. When the radio is on battery operation, the radio operated strictly from the DC voltage supplied by the batteries. The change between voltages from AC to DC or DC to AC is almost instantaneously. This change over is done through an AC powered relay in the radio. When the AC held in relay looses its supply it de energizes and switches over to DC power if the batteries are in the radio. With batteries in the radio try it. Plug into the AC supply, turn on the radio that has batteries installed in it, unplug the AC supply and the radio will not miss a beat.
Usually nothing good will happen. The appliance may not work or be damaged or overheat. Sometimes for small electronics, it will work fine. Many electronic devices have a rectifier that converts AC to DC, and DC will pass through and work fine. But other devices have transformers that will not work with DC input.
If you're in North America, and you're using a standard PowerPoint (ie. a normal outlet - two vertical bars with a round pin beneath or above), then you've almost certainly got 110 to 125 Volts AC. If you're in Europe or many places elsewhere - like Australia, for example, then it's possible that you've got 220 to 240 Volts AC. Using a voltmeter, you can measure the voltage between the pins to determine exactly what voltage is provided. I'd get an electrician or someone technical to do this for you - the power in the electrical outlet can be DEADLY. Do not attempt this unless you're qualified to do so!
The outlet is rated for 30A, so anything up to, but not exceeding 30A can be plugged in.
No, it will cause the bulb to blow. A 12 volt light is DC voltage and your home outlet is AC voltage.
Get a 120 volt ac to 12volt dc power supply. you plug them into a house outlet and it converts120 house voltage to 12 volt dc , some have regulators on them and you can turn the dc voltage up and down on them. make sure you set your device to the proper voltage before turning on.
It's an electrical device for converting electrical energy, usually to covert AC to DC or vise versa, and has hundreds of good uses, such as tranferring power from a wall outlet to a charging battery that can't plug into a wall.
From the wall outlet, AC/DC adapter, or Battery
Not typically. Domestic service in many areas of Japan is similar to US Network services in that it provides two phases, like ABN to a service, then BCN to the next, etcetera. There are appliances in the US designed for Network services; but then there is the question of the plug at the end of the cord -- will it match both physically and electrically. It is best to first identify where in Japan you want plug the appliance and second find out available electric service parameters -- they still have some DC over there...
No. Car stereos run on 12v DC power. A wall outlet, depending on where in the world you are, gives out either 110-120 or 220-240v AC power.
You can buy an "inverter." It plugs into the cigarette lighter or accessory plug or directly clips to the battery terminals and converts the 12 volt DC to AC. You can then plug your appliance into it. Be sure to get an inverter that is the right wattage capacity for your device.
Power consumed by the appliance = (DC supply voltage) x (DC current)
If you are talking about the standard cigarette lighter socket in an automobile, you can only use devices that can run on 12 volts DC ((most modern cars) within the rated AMP load capacity. A standard house outlet is designed for 110 volt AC devices that have a 110 volt AC source
A laptop computer requires DC.
AC - Alternating Current, same thing that comes out of a wall socket DC - Direct Current, batteries. <<>> When a device has AC/DC on its name plate, it can work off either of the two voltages. Many portable radios have this function. When the radio is plugged into AC, the voltage is transformed to the working DC voltage and then rectified to a DC voltage. When the radio is on battery operation, the radio operated strictly from the DC voltage supplied by the batteries. The change between voltages from AC to DC or DC to AC is almost instantaneously. This change over is done through an AC powered relay in the radio. When the AC held in relay looses its supply it de energizes and switches over to DC power if the batteries are in the radio. With batteries in the radio try it. Plug into the AC supply, turn on the radio that has batteries installed in it, unplug the AC supply and the radio will not miss a beat.