Under no circumstances should you do this.. for one they probably have different power requirements, but also they are high current devices, and by code MUST be put on separate branch circuits
For a stove, use a 8 or 6 gauge wire with a 40 to 50 amp breaker. For a dryer, use a 10 or 8 gauge wire with a 30 amp breaker. For a hot water heater, use a 10 or 8 gauge wire with a 30 or 40 amp breaker. Be sure to consult local electrical codes and guidelines for specific requirements.
You may have other devices on the same circuit and adding the current draw of the drier could be overloading the circuit. You may have a short circuit in your dryer. But you may also have a lint build-up in the vent line causing the dryer to overheat. If neither of these are the case, you need to have a professional check it out.
Your 110 volt washer receptacle sounds like it is not a dedicated circuit directly fed from the distribution panel as it should be. It sounds like someone has tapped off of one side of the dryer receptacle hot and neutral terminals and run them to the receptacle for the washer. If true, this would have been done in the back side of the dryer receptacles which is located in the wall. You best get it checked out because it is likely the wire feeding the washer receptacle is a #14 rated at 15 amps and is undersized for a 30 amp breaker. A #10 wire has the capacity to be connected to a 30 amp breaker which you should find the dryer's connection to be.
At 120 Volts your heater is drawing about 12.5 Amps. If your house only had 120 V then it would draw 13.6 Amps. Problems could be 1.) Other devices on same circuit. 2.) Internal short in the heating element that reduced resistance and increased current. 3.) Faulty heater in that it really delivers more than 1500 watts because heating elements are less resistance than rating would require. 4.) Faulty breaker. These are in order of likelihood. You are close enough to the limit of the breaker that it could be any of these things. Typically you should not exceed 80% of the breaker rating and that is just where you are operating.
Probably not. If the appliance has multiple heating levels then you might get away with it. In this scenario you would only be able to use 30 amps of the appliance's 40 amp capacity before the breaker would trip.
For a stove, use a 8 or 6 gauge wire with a 40 to 50 amp breaker. For a dryer, use a 10 or 8 gauge wire with a 30 amp breaker. For a hot water heater, use a 10 or 8 gauge wire with a 30 or 40 amp breaker. Be sure to consult local electrical codes and guidelines for specific requirements.
No, the upper and lower water heater elements are not the same. They serve different functions in heating the water in a water heater.
It's generally not advisable to run both a water heater and a tanning bed off the same breaker. Water heaters typically require a significant amount of power, which can exceed the capacity of a single circuit, especially when both devices are in use simultaneously. This can lead to tripped breakers or potential electrical hazards. It's best to consult an electrician to ensure proper load balancing and safety.
It must be on the same circuit in your breaker box. They both need dedicated circuits for them.
If the GFI that is tripping is a different circuit, there is electrical leakage between the circuit the GFI is controlling, and the dryer circuit. It is possible that there is some cross wiring in the electrical box. I would strongly recommend getting a licensed electrician to look at it, preferably before you have a fire. If the GFI is the same circuit as the one where the dryer is plugged in, you might want to have the dryer checked for leakage to ground. You should also check the dryer circuit's rating against the rating of the breaker in its circuit. A dryer typically takes 30A on usually a single two-gang breaker; if you have a larger dryer that pulls, say, 45A, a 30A breaker will always pop. It sounds to me like a bad electrician has, instead of buying a proper two-gang 30-A breaker, installed your dryer across two circuits, one being the garage GFI circuit; the dryer, because it pulls 220V, pulls an unbalanced load across the GFI and triggers it, and the other circuit breaker is triggered because it loses the extra power provided through the GFI. I cannot emphasize this enough: get this checked out and fixed. Now. Before you get a house fire.
Yes, both thermostats on a water heater should be set to the same temperature to ensure consistent and efficient heating of the water.
An electrician would put in two separate circuits since there is no telling in future that gas dryer might be replaced. You need to look at the breaker protecting the circuit and see if the current from the dryer and washer when added together don't exceed 80% of the breaker rating. Also the start up current for the dryer tumbler and washing machine motor don't add up to more than the breaker rating when added together. This is where problems will occur since start up currents may be 6 times running current.
The plugs are different. The prongs are straight on one and angled on the other. The wire and breaker are the same. You can either change the outlet or the cord.
not even in the same state
You may have other devices on the same circuit and adding the current draw of the drier could be overloading the circuit. You may have a short circuit in your dryer. But you may also have a lint build-up in the vent line causing the dryer to overheat. If neither of these are the case, you need to have a professional check it out.
Your 110 volt washer receptacle sounds like it is not a dedicated circuit directly fed from the distribution panel as it should be. It sounds like someone has tapped off of one side of the dryer receptacle hot and neutral terminals and run them to the receptacle for the washer. If true, this would have been done in the back side of the dryer receptacles which is located in the wall. You best get it checked out because it is likely the wire feeding the washer receptacle is a #14 rated at 15 amps and is undersized for a 30 amp breaker. A #10 wire has the capacity to be connected to a 30 amp breaker which you should find the dryer's connection to be.
At 120 Volts your heater is drawing about 12.5 Amps. If your house only had 120 V then it would draw 13.6 Amps. Problems could be 1.) Other devices on same circuit. 2.) Internal short in the heating element that reduced resistance and increased current. 3.) Faulty heater in that it really delivers more than 1500 watts because heating elements are less resistance than rating would require. 4.) Faulty breaker. These are in order of likelihood. You are close enough to the limit of the breaker that it could be any of these things. Typically you should not exceed 80% of the breaker rating and that is just where you are operating.