Well, that really depends on the type of panel used. More than likely you are going to need a voltage converter in between your panel and your battery. This converter is a switching powersupply, and takes the nominal voltage of your panel and steps it up/down to the correct voltage for your battery. Switchers have the advantage of being able to take a certain amount of power and turn it into a fixed voltage output. The design of the supply sets the input voltage range, but it can swing across several hundred volt range if designed properly. This is important for one main reason: solar cells have what is called an IV curve. You plot voltage against current for your panel and it shows a nice curve with a bend at high V/I levels. At a specific point on this curve, where V and I are both maximized, is the Maximum Power Point. This is the voltage and current where you get the most power off your panel. Some converters are smart and find this point. They are called Maximum Power Point Trackers or MPPTs. They will draw as much power as possible out of your panel for you to use. The Biel school of Engineering makes some that work well, but they are not cheap. I believe Xantrex technologies makes some as well. I've only played with the Biel's during my tenure on the ISU Solar Car Team. Other converters do not track. They just draw at a certain power level, and if it's not the max so be it. They are the cheaper of the two types. If this is a home panel this type of converter is a viable option as you can set the maximum power output to your battery. Since you don't want to overcharge your battery, the unused potential power from your supply is kind of a wash. Finally, you may be thinking "Well, why don't I just hook it up directly?" Good question. Firstly, if the maximum output voltage of the panel is too high, it can damage the battery. If the maximum output voltage is too low, it will never fully charge your battery. If the voltage output of the panel is less than the battery voltage (Low light), your battery will not charge. This set up will take a long time to fully charge your battery as you are on the high voltage side of the IV curve. The converter eliminates all this by taking a certain amount of power (voltage independant) from the panel and converting it to the correct charge levels for the battery. You will have to research this, as you need to match your converter to your project and panel. Take a look at Xantrex technologies, I believe they make setups for this exact project. Also, if you plan to drive your home with this be sure to talk to your power company. They will tell you how to do it safely, and, if your system is big enough, may let you sell power back onto the grid. Good luck.
You first need to have a charge controller module that coordinates where the electricity goes. These are readily available through ebay from $20-$50 for a basic 12 volt input model. The charge controller has connectors for the red (+) and black (-)solar panel wire as well as the positive and negative wires that connect to your deep cycle 12 volt battery. Also off the charge controller there should be a "load" pair of connectors. The black wire can be directly run from the load line to the submersible pump. I would run the white wire thru a bus bar that houses an assorted range of fuses like are used in an automobile. A 10amp fuse should suffice for the submersible pump. Using a fuse you have a built in safety factor in case of a short. The green wire is probably just an additional ground and not really needed. The only other thing I could think of for the green wire is if it is connected to a float switch that would turn the pump on when water got to a certain level. Consult your schematic.
To do a proper caculation you have to know what the amperage of the gate motor is. The amperage of the load is what governs the size of the wire. There are two ways to power a Gate opener DC OR AC. Smaller units and residential units are generally DC. Larger commercial are usually AC or use a combination of DC and AC technologies. I will assume it is a DC operator being powered off a battery, with the solar panel maintaining the battery. As for the solar panel the panel was probably a 5 watt not a 5 amp, as a 5 watt panel is generally the smallest panel you would want to use to supply power to a gate operator. This supplies a trickle of power at 12V which charges a 12V battery. These panels generally charge at or less than 500 milliamps.Generally #16 would be fine for such a length.
A battery contains a charge of electrons. When these electrons leave the battery and travel through a circuit that is described as current.
The voltage of the solar panel is less important than the total amperage. Proper wire size is determined by amperage that will be going through the wire. Wire INSULATION determines the voltage that a wire can carry.
Look to see if the 30 amp panel is fed with a two wire or a three wire. If it is a two wire then you are out of luck. If the panel is fed with a three wire then the panel should have the neutral terminated in the panel. It is this neutral that you need for 120 volt connections. You didn't state how many panel slots there are in the panel. If you are able install a 15 amp breaker into the panel and connect the wires going to the load. The black wire will go to the breaker and the white wire will go to the neutral bar in the panel.
Put the solar panel in the sun;Attach the red wire of the panel to the positive terminal of the battery;Attach the black wire of the panel to the negative terminal.
To connect a battery to your solar panel, follow these steps carefully: 1. Gather Your Components You'll need: Solar panel Charge controller Battery (usually deep-cycle) Inverter (optional, for AC appliances) Wires and connectors 2. Safety First Always ensure the system is off before making connections. Wear protective gear and check for proper polarity. 3. Connect the Charge Controller to the Battery This is the first and most important connection: Connect the positive (+) terminal of the charge controller to the positive terminal of the battery. Connect the negative (-) terminal of the charge controller to the negative terminal of the battery. Why? This allows the charge controller to detect battery voltage and operate correctly. 4. Connect the Solar Panel to the Charge Controller Connect the positive (+) wire from the solar panel to the positive PV input on the charge controller. Connect the negative (-) wire from the solar panel to the negative PV input on the charge controller. Tip: Do this after the battery is already connected to avoid voltage surge issues. 5. (Optional) Connect Inverter to Battery If you need to run AC appliances: Connect the inverter's positive (+) input to the battery's positive terminal. Connect the negative (-) input to the battery's negative terminal. 6. Turn the System On First, power on the charge controller. Then, the solar panel will begin charging the battery through it. Important Notes: Always use a charge controller to avoid overcharging the battery. Use proper gauge wires to handle the current. Include fuses or breakers for added protection. Best Solar Energy Provider in Australia advancedsolarandbatteries.
Cardboard, red wire, black wire, some resistors and LEDs, a small motor maybe, a cellphone battery if you want to be fancy, and of course, a baby solar panel or two.
all the positives will go to fuse panel. The hot wire will come from battery to fuse panel. All the negatives will need to be joined together at the negative post of battery.
The negative wire on a solar panel is typically marked with a black color or minus (-) sign. You can also use a multimeter to test the voltage output of each wire to identify the negative end.
You first need to have a charge controller module that coordinates where the electricity goes. These are readily available through ebay from $20-$50 for a basic 12 volt input model. The charge controller has connectors for the red (+) and black (-)solar panel wire as well as the positive and negative wires that connect to your deep cycle 12 volt battery. Also off the charge controller there should be a "load" pair of connectors. The black wire can be directly run from the load line to the submersible pump. I would run the white wire thru a bus bar that houses an assorted range of fuses like are used in an automobile. A 10amp fuse should suffice for the submersible pump. Using a fuse you have a built in safety factor in case of a short. The green wire is probably just an additional ground and not really needed. The only other thing I could think of for the green wire is if it is connected to a float switch that would turn the pump on when water got to a certain level. Consult your schematic.
To do a proper caculation you have to know what the amperage of the gate motor is. The amperage of the load is what governs the size of the wire. There are two ways to power a Gate opener DC OR AC. Smaller units and residential units are generally DC. Larger commercial are usually AC or use a combination of DC and AC technologies. I will assume it is a DC operator being powered off a battery, with the solar panel maintaining the battery. As for the solar panel the panel was probably a 5 watt not a 5 amp, as a 5 watt panel is generally the smallest panel you would want to use to supply power to a gate operator. This supplies a trickle of power at 12V which charges a 12V battery. These panels generally charge at or less than 500 milliamps.Generally #16 would be fine for such a length.
your screwed
Electro Magnets can work without battery power, hook up a really powerful solar panel and a resister to circulate an even current, add strands of copper wire and coil them around a tube to make them circular. hook them up to the solar panels to make the electro magnet's power circulate through the wire!! I tried it and its fun!
can 6 ,12 volt battery be wire to make in to one 24 volt battery for solar use in home
If you are talking about a mobile battery charger and there is only one wire then the unit is broken. There needs to be two leads that connect to the battery to charge the battery.
An electric charge flows through a wire when there is a closed circuit that allows the charge to move freely. This requires a power source, such as a battery, and a complete path for the charge to travel along, like a wire or conductor.