120 Volts multiplied by 1.4 Amps equals 168 Watts. This may be steady state current though so allow more for startup. Also the fridge probably does not have the pump running all of the time so figure the 'on' time compared to the 'off' time for a true average.
About 0.1 kW for a kitchen fridge.
The revolutions per minute (RPM) of a device running on 120V will depend on the specific motor or mechanism of the device. Different motors and equipment are designed to operate at different speeds, so it's important to refer to the manufacturer's specifications for the RPM of a particular device running on 120V.
To calculate the VA (volt-amperes) drawn by a device, you can use the formula: VA = Voltage (V) × Current (A). For a 120V device drawing 10 amps, the calculation would be 120V × 10A = 1200 VA. Therefore, the device will draw 1200 VA.
Using the formula Power = Voltage x Current, we can calculate the current: Current = Power / Voltage. Plugging in the values, we get 1500W / 120V = 12.5A. So, a 1500W resistance heater would draw 12.5A of current at 120V.
A 40W fluorescent lamp typically draws around 0.33 amperes in a 120V circuit. This is calculated by dividing the power (40W) by the voltage (120V) to get the amperage.
24
½ to 1 unit per day.
How Long will a Mini-fridge run on a Car BatteryIt depends on the capacity [measured in Amp-Hours] of the battery, and the amount [how much Amps] of current the mini-fridge draws [uses].I have an electrically operateed cooler/warmer [looks like an "ice chest"] that plugs into the cigarette lighter, and without the engine running, it will fully discharge the battery in about two hours!!!I think that mini-fridges operate on the same principle, and thus, I wouldn't expect a car battery to hold up much longer.
Because there is much in the house that runs on electricity. Lights, fridge/freezer, the kitchen range. water heater. TV, wi-fi, aircon etc etc
minimum 230volts In formal electrical jargon, a "device" does not "use" electricity. A device is something like a switch or receptacle(outlet) that helps control or carry electricity but does not consume electricity. In the United States, voltage for home lighting and general purpose receptacles is 120v. Voltage for electrical appliances such as ranges, clothes dryers, or furnaces is 240v. Voltages such as 110v, 115v, or 125v are versions of 120v in electrical jargon and voltages such as 220v or 230v are versions of 240v.
About 0.1 kW for a kitchen fridge.
if i have 120v and 3hp i need know watts
It really depends on the size, age, type, brand, etc. But typically, year 2009 refrigerators use between 450-600 kWh/year (and some go well over 700 kWh/year). Larger fridges tend to use more electricity, but some brands are better than others. Try to get an EnergyStar appliance and you should be able get a large 28 cubic fridge that uses around 550 kWh/year which should equal under $60 a year to operate (depending on your electricity costs), which isn't too bad. There are also compact mini fridges and extra large built-ins that could vary in electricity, so it's best to just look up the fridge you are interested in knowing about and check out their website (or the Specs on a store's website). That should tell you how much electricity it uses.
A lot of them vary, the most common ones will have a volume of 4-5 cubic feet, though you can get them much smaller and larger. That's close to 20 inches in each direction.
Every time you open your fridge door - or indeed your freezer's door - it allows cold air to fall out onto the floor of the room. If this is allowed to happen for more than a few moments the thermostat inside the fridge or freezer, sensing that too much cold air has gone, will turn on the fridge's motor and compressor pump to cool down the new air. The more the compressor pump and its motor are forced to run unnecessarily, the more electricity would be used, with the consequence that the money to pay for that electricity would simply be wasted. Knowing those "facts of life" it should be easy to understand why it is better to keep the door closed as much as possible instead of leaving it to hang open for more than the short time it takes to load or unload food from the fridge.
Every time you open your fridge door - or indeed your freezer's door - it allows cold air to fall out onto the floor of the room. If this is allowed to happen for more than a few moments the thermostat inside the fridge or freezer, sensing that too much cold air has gone, will turn on the fridge's motor and compressor pump to cool down the new air. The more the compressor pump and its motor are forced to run unnecessarily, the more electricity would be used, with the consequence that the money to pay for that electricity would simply be wasted. Knowing those "facts of life" it should be easy to understand why it is better to keep the door closed as much as possible instead of leaving it to hang open for more than the short time it takes to load or unload food from the fridge.
Mini fridges, or compact refrigerators, work great in offices, dorm rooms, garages, and other places with space restrictions. They are useful for storing snacks, drinks, and other items. If you are considering buying a mini fridge, you'll want to know about some of the features offered by different manufacturers and what you can expect to pay. A mini fridge around $50 is usually extremely compact, and is about the cheapest fridge you will find. Many fridges at this price double as coolers and are portable (some contain a carrying handle). Most can be plugged into a regular AC outlet, and some can be plugged into a car lighter (which works nicely if you are on a long car ride). On average, these mini fridges hold up to 6 twelve-ounce cans of soda. A mini fridge in the $50-$100 price range is a popular choice and is in the lower end of what you can expect to pay for a mini fridge. Many include wire shelves, door storage for drinks (such as cans of soda), internal light, and adjustable temperature control. Some may include a freezer compartment large enough to hold an ice cube tray. Mini fridges in this price range are larger in size than the fridges available at a lower price. A mini fridge in the $100-$150 price range is the middle range of what you can expect to pay. Fridges in this range tend to be 1.7 cubic feet or larger, and include any of the following: manual defrost, tall bottle door rack, adjustable leveling legs, separate area that functions as a freezer with built in ice maker, and adjustable fridge thermostat. Many mini fridges in this range are also stainless steel. A mini fridge in the $150-$250 price range is near the top end of the scale (although you can find fridges priced around $300). These are often fairly large in size, ranging from 3 to 4.5 cubic feet. Features can include two or more adjustable wire or glass shelves, ice tray and small freezer, two door shelves that can accommodate soda or other items, fridge thermostat that can be set at numerous settings, and stainless steel exterior. A fridge this size can hold up to 48 cans of twelve-ounce soda.