There is no loss in voltage. Voltage is constant (dependant on your supply). The dimming is as a result of of a reduction in current (ampage)
If it is dimming the light, yes. A dimmer switch is nothing but a potentiometer, better explained as a variable resistor. It will lower the voltage going to the light bulb, but the excess energy must go someplace, and is released as heat. The lower the brightness, the warmer it will get (until it is turned all the way off). There are newer dimmer switches that work in different manners, but I don't believe that is what you are referring to.
To find the line voltage at the panel, you need to add the voltage loss to the voltage at the receptacle. Since the receptacle has 110 V and there is a voltage loss of 6 V, the line voltage at the panel is 110 V + 6 V = 116 V.
A little. First off, most modern dimmer switches aren't rheostats. Those have been supplanted by TRIACs (triode for AC), and later, IGBTs (insulated gate bipolar transistors). For both of these, their mode of action is to change the duty cycle of the AC wave (duty cycle is time on versus cycle time) such that less power per cycle is put through the bulb. This is more efficient than a rheostat, in that, there isnt as much resistive loss across the dimmer. The resistive loss is where the "a little" comes in. For all three types, a small amount of the power put through the dimmer is dissipated as heat - however, this is significantly less than the reduction in output power to the bulb, whatever the type. An ideal dimmer would have 100% efficiency - that is, for a given setting, it would dissipate no heat, and the bulb would be the only thing on the circuit consuming power. However, no component is ideal, and modern dimmers typically consume under 1% of their power throughput (so if it's passing a total of 1W, it'll consume less than 10 milliWatts).
Check for a short in the brake light circuit. A dead short will dim lights & blow fuses. Have you checked the charging system & battery? Pull the fuse for the brake lamp circuit & see if the same problem still exists.
Voltage drop is typically measured in units of volts (V). It is a way to quantify the loss of voltage as electrical current flows through a circuit due to resistance. Voltage drop can be calculated by measuring the difference in voltage between two points in the circuit.
I'm just making a guess here. There is a instrument panel dimmer switch on the multi-function lever on the left side of the steering wheel. This lever incluces turn signal, head lights, parking lights, hi/low beam, instrument panel dimmer, dome lights, and maybe some other stuff. One you figure out how to activate the dome/courtesy lamps, just back that part of the switch off one click and that is the maximum dashlight level setting.
Need more info.What are you powering?What is your supply in voltage and amperage?What type of loss are you getting.
If it is dimming the light, yes. A dimmer switch is nothing but a potentiometer, better explained as a variable resistor. It will lower the voltage going to the light bulb, but the excess energy must go someplace, and is released as heat. The lower the brightness, the warmer it will get (until it is turned all the way off). There are newer dimmer switches that work in different manners, but I don't believe that is what you are referring to.
Voltage loss. On a long run you will loose some voltage so it is sometimes necessary to increase the wire size to compensate for the voltage loss. This loss of voltage will cause a light to be dim as it is not receiving the correct voltage that is was designed to use.
To find the line voltage at the panel, you need to add the voltage loss to the voltage at the receptacle. Since the receptacle has 110 V and there is a voltage loss of 6 V, the line voltage at the panel is 110 V + 6 V = 116 V.
voltage drop is the loss or drop that occured across the element so that voltage gets down and current increases across the element and power loss is like i2r loss and like wastage of power without consuming
Voltage drop and copper loss are not the same thing, though they are related. Voltage drop refers to the reduction in voltage as electrical current flows through a conductor, primarily due to its resistance. Copper loss, on the other hand, specifically refers to the power loss (in watts) that occurs due to the resistance of the copper wire, calculated using the formula I²R, where I is the current and R is the resistance. While both concepts involve resistance, voltage drop focuses on the change in voltage, while copper loss quantifies energy loss as heat.
In a series circuit the lights share the voltage between them equally and the current stays the same throughout and if one bulb fuses the the other will not work. For the parallel, the voltage is the full voltage from the battery in all bulbs and the current is split between the different routes, and if one goes out the other one will stay lighten.
That seems very odd, I wouldn't think the alt or bat change would have anything to do with loss of your low beams, Are you low beams actually burnt out or are they not getting power?? check this. could be a fuse or likely in the Dimmer switch in your steering colum.
A little. First off, most modern dimmer switches aren't rheostats. Those have been supplanted by TRIACs (triode for AC), and later, IGBTs (insulated gate bipolar transistors). For both of these, their mode of action is to change the duty cycle of the AC wave (duty cycle is time on versus cycle time) such that less power per cycle is put through the bulb. This is more efficient than a rheostat, in that, there isnt as much resistive loss across the dimmer. The resistive loss is where the "a little" comes in. For all three types, a small amount of the power put through the dimmer is dissipated as heat - however, this is significantly less than the reduction in output power to the bulb, whatever the type. An ideal dimmer would have 100% efficiency - that is, for a given setting, it would dissipate no heat, and the bulb would be the only thing on the circuit consuming power. However, no component is ideal, and modern dimmers typically consume under 1% of their power throughput (so if it's passing a total of 1W, it'll consume less than 10 milliWatts).
Yes, that is almost true, apart from a very small copper loss in the primary winding that carries the small magnetising current. The core loss (iron loss) depends on the applied voltage. This loss is measured by the open-circuit test, carried out at the working voltage.
To answer this question the supply voltage and the amperage of the load must be given.