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MAKE SURE FUSE IS REMOVED OR CIRCUIT BREAKER TRIPPED! This is quite simple. Unscrew and remove the template. Unscrew and PULL OUT the switch. As long as this NOT a 3-way switch, Unscrew, UNCURL, and remove wire wrapped around BOTH screws, then unscrew, uncurl and remove grounding screw (bare wire) and remove old light switch. Fully unscrew bolts on new switch until they stop. Strip both covered wires to reveal 1" of bare wire. Bend bare wires (all) to look like a hook. With completely bare grounding wire, wrap hooked end around the green screw with the wire end sticking out on the lower right side. Do this with the rest of the wires. Fully tighten all screws. Push excess wires back into outlet and firmly secure switch to outlet. Replace and secure template. Replace fuse/flip circuit breaker back on. Try switch. Light should respond WITHOUT FLICKERING. If light flickers, turn off power and check for loose connections on the switch. Resume power AFTER problem is solved. <><><>

As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself,

on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,

always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.

IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

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Can a single pole switch can be use as a dimmer?

No, a single pole switch is not designed to function as a dimmer. Dimmer switches are specifically designed to control the amount of electrical current flowing to a light fixture, allowing for adjustable brightness levels. Using a single pole switch as a dimmer may cause damage to the switch, light fixture, or both.


How many quarts of fluid can you fit into a standard kitchen sink?

A standard kitchen sink can typically hold around 9-10 quarts of fluid. However, this can vary depending on the size and design of the sink.


How to fit a dimmer switch which has an sw connection a l and an arrow with a wave line through it which do you connect these to if in your house you have a red wire black wire and earth?

For countries in Europe and other world areas running a 50 Hz supply service.The answer to your question is rather straightforward. The "Sw" connection is used for a "two-way switch" configuration. If you don't have another switch controlling the same light (as is usual on a staircase) then don't use this connection on the dimmer switch.The "arrow with a wave" is the "Switched Live" connection. This provides live power service to your light fitting.Since the dimmer switch doesn't require a connection to the "neutral" wire - nowadays a wire covered in blue-coloured pvc insulation - or, in old wiring, with black insulation - you must ensure that the circuit is completed by connecting the neutral wire from the incoming service to the neutral wire from your light fitting - nowadays a wire covered in blue-coloured pvc insulation - or, in old wiring, with black insulation . Ensure this is done correctly and safely using an insulated connector block.BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO DO THIS WORK, ALWAYS SWITCH OFF THE LIGHTING CIRCUIT AT THE CIRCUIT BREAKER BOX OR, ON OLDER WIRING SYSTEMS, THE MAIN FUSE BOX!1. For a 1-way installation: connect the live service wire - nowadays a brown insulated wire - or, in old wiring, a red wire - to the "L" (common) connection on the dimmer switch and the brown (or red) wire from the light fitting to the dimmer's "arrow with a wave" connection.2. Ensure that the neutral connection (as described above) is correctly made.3. Always connect the earth wire - nowadays a green/yellow wire - or just plain green in old wiring - to the brass earth terminal in the wall box, if there is one (but there may not be one in an old wiring system) and always be sure to connect any green/yellow (or plain green in old wiring) earth wire coming from the light fitting either into that earth terminal in the wall box or use a separate insulated connector block. Often the dimmer switch itself does not have any connection for an earth wire but, if it does, an insulated green/yellow earth wire should go to that as well.It's as simple as that! Happy DIY'ing........WarningBecause you needed to ask this question here, you do not have quite enough knowledge to be safe. Be aware that you are working with voltages that could injure or kill you if you don't know how to do this job safely!Trying to answer this question without personally seeing what you are trying to describe is a recipe for disaster. There are too many things that could be misinterpreted.As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.


How many yellow light waves will fit into a distance of .003 inches?

To calculate the number of yellow light waves that will fit into a distance of 0.003 inches, you need to know the wavelength of yellow light. Yellow light typically has a wavelength of around 570-590 nanometers. With this information, you can use the formula: number of waves = distance/wavelength to find the answer.


How do you find a wiring diagram of wiring a light with an on-off switch using wires coming from an outlet?

for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz supply service.If you are asking about how to take power from an existing wall outlet to add a new light switch somewhere nearby - either in the same room or in the next roomwhich is just on the other side of the wall containing the wall outlet - you'll need torun a new set of wires from the socket outlet to a new fused wall switch and anotherset of wires from that new switch to the new lighting fixture.IMPORTANT NOTES:A) Before you start, be sure to check the electrical wiring code for your locality (town/state) because the new wiring MUST comply with the safety requirements stated in that wiring code. Some localities will allow this work to be done by an amateur as a DIY job but others will insist that it must be done only by a licensed electrician, especially if the room or location in which the new lighting fixture is to be used will be subject to humid conditions of any kind. This means any place where there is a piped water supply, such as in a kitchen, bathroom, shower room, laundry room, etc. or any outside location such as the yard/garden outside the house. In other words, anywhere where the walls, floor or ceiling are subject to water spray, damp conditions, moisture or wetness of any kind. Your local wiring code will give detailed instructions about its installation requirements for such conditions.B) In addition, depending on the locality and the actual installation site, some wiring codes will require - for personal safety reasons - that a new lighting circuit connected to an existing power socket outlet must be fitted with a protective device such as a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) or Residual Current Device (RCD). If the wiring code requires one of these protective devices you must fit one into the circuit to be compliant to the code.C) The present socket outlet will be protected by a fuse on the main breaker panel that is suitable only for power socket outlets. That fuse may not "blow" if a fault condition ever occurred somewhere in the new lighting circuit. So, to give the new lighting circuit proper protection from fire hazards, it is advisable to use a new wall switch of the type which includes its own 3 AMP fuse.D) It is essential that you find a secure place to mount the new lighting fixture. Depending on the type of room or location it may or may not be allowed to position the fixture on to a wall or the ceiling. If the location is to be the ceiling, the light fixture must be screwed through the plaster on to a wooden joist above the plaster board, not just on to the ceiling plaster alone.Assuming you have noted all the above advice, here are some general instructions as to how to proceed with the simplest of installations. If you have a more complicated installation to do, such as one requiring a GFCI or RCD, you must follow the instructions supplied with that protective device.1. Switch all the power off at the panel using the main power switch and thenCHECK that there is NO POWER at the socket outlet by using a meter or voltageindicator to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.2. Install a new wall box in the wall to house the new fused switch.3. By unscrewing the fixing screw(s) remove the existing socket outlet from itswall box. From that wall box run a new length of lighting cable - containing ablack (hot) wire, a white (neutral) wire and a bare or green (ground) wire -to the new wall box for the new fused switch.4. Working on the existing socket outlet, to connect the "hot" wires together,unscrew the screw in the brass terminal that has the existing black wire(s) in it.Put the new black "hot" wire into the terminal and tighten the screw to hold allthe black wires together in the terminal.5. Working on the existing socket outlet, connect the new white "neutral" wireinto the terminal that has the existing white wire(s) in it.6. Working on the existing socket outlet, connect the new bare or green "ground"wire into the terminal that has the existing bare or green wire(s) in it.7. Run a new length of lighting cable containing a black (hot) wire, a white (neutral)wire and a bare or green (ground) wire from the new wall box for the switch to thewall or ceiling box for the new light fixture.8. If there is a ground terminal already supplied as part of the new wall box,the bare or green ground wire coming from the existing socket outlet shouldbe connected to that ground terminal.9. Also to that ground terminal connect the ground wire of the cable going to theposition where the new lighting fixture is to be mounted, even if the lighting fixtureitself does not require a ground wire. That should be done so that if, in future, thelighting fixture is replaced by another one that does need a ground wire, it can beconnected easily and safely.10. If there is no ground terminal already supplied as part of the new wall box for the switch, connect all the bare or green ground wires together in the terminal marked for a ground wire on the new fused switch, if the switch has one. If the switch does not have a ground terminal then use a proper insulated connector to connect all the ground wires together.11. If there is a terminal marked for a ground wire on the new fused switch and you have not already used it as was advised in Step 10, use a six to nine inch length of green wire to connect it to the ground terminal in the new wall box, if there is one, or to the connector mentioned in Step 10.12. Connect the black wire in the cable coming from the existing outlet to the"Supply" hot terminal of the new fused switch.13. Connect the black wire in the new cable going to the new lighting fixture to the"Load" hot terminal on the fused switch.14. Similarly, connect the white "Supply" and "Load" wires to the terminal marked"Neutral" on the fused switch. If there are two separate Neutral terminals markedfor "Supply" and "Load" wires, use those accordingly. If you have decided not to usea fused switch (even though it is good practice to use one for this kind of application)then you must use a proper insulated connector to link the white "Supply" and "Load"wires together.15. Now connect-up the new lighting fixture to the new supply cable, being carefulto fit the hot, neutral and ground wires into the correct terminals. If the new lightingfixture does not have a terminal for a ground wire then simply put the end of theground wire into a separate insulated electrical connector and cover it with somegreen tape so it is available for future use on a different lighting fixture which may require it.16. Check that all the terminal connections in all the fittings are screwed tight.17. Then, using the appropriate screws, fix the old socket outlet and the newfused wall switch into their respective wall boxes and also screw the newlighting fixture to its wall or ceiling box.18. Switch on the main power switch at the main panel and check that the newfused wall switch and lighting fixture work satisfactorily.As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

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Can a single pole switch can be use as a dimmer?

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