Need to know what the wattage or the amperage is of the appliance. The load amperage is what governs the wire size and the breaker to protect the circuit.
Turn every appliance and device on in the house. If the main breaker trips, turn a few devices off until the breaker does not trip. Prepare for a bill in the hundreds of dollars.
Yes, either way, the power is cut to that appliance.
When installing a circuit breaker, you size the breaker based on the wire size. The breaker should be matched to the ampacity of the wire to ensure proper protection against overloads and short circuits. The device being controlled by the breaker is not a determining factor in sizing the breaker.
If the appliance is just to be plugged into a circuit with multiple outlets then you just need to make sure that the sum of currents for all devices on the circuit are less than the rated current. A rule of thumb is total current should be no greater than 80% of the rated current. So you might have a 20 A breaker and several 2.5 A appliances on this circuit. If you have a dedicated circuit for the appliance you would only need to size the breaker for the maximum current being drawn by the appliance. If the appliance contained a motor then there might be a start-up current that might be as high as 15 amps so you would likely go to a 20 amp breaker for a safety margin. As a practical matter a dedicated circuit for an appliance in the 2.5 amp range should have a 15 amp breaker. I always install a 20 amp breaker just for added margin and possible future applications.
The appliance works perfectly. If you did it the other way around (50amps on a 30amp breaker, you would be tripping the breaker. Think of it as a mercury thermometer. The circuit breaker is the maximum temperature and the load on that breaker is the mercury. If the load is lower than the max, everything works beautifully. If the load becomes greater than the maximum rating, then things starting popping.
It is inserting a breaker into a service panel.
Turn every appliance and device on in the house. If the main breaker trips, turn a few devices off until the breaker does not trip. Prepare for a bill in the hundreds of dollars.
Yes, either way, the power is cut to that appliance.
When installing a circuit breaker, you size the breaker based on the wire size. The breaker should be matched to the ampacity of the wire to ensure proper protection against overloads and short circuits. The device being controlled by the breaker is not a determining factor in sizing the breaker.
There should be a connection point on the appliance. This needs to be hardwired into an electric box, often with a disconnect or breaker. In some cases you can buy or make a power cord that plugs into a dedicated outlet with a mating connection appropriate to the voltage and amperage requirements of the appliance. If the service does not already exist, you may want to employ an electrician.
If the earth connection has a high resistance it is not capable of acting as a true earth. For example, the high resistance might mean that the fuse or circuit-breaker will fail to operate when there is a fault.
Yes.
In North America the standard sizes for breakers are 15, 20, 30, and 40 amps. The 15 amp size breaker is used in general circuit wiring. The 20 amp size breaker is used for dedicated appliance receptacles, hot water tank and baseboard heating. The 30 amp size breaker is used for a clothes dryer. The 40 amp size breaker is used for the electric range.
The number that is on a breaker is the amount of amperage that the breaker can deliver before it trips. This is the same regardless of how many poles the breaker is.
that would really depend upon the stove (I assume that you mean an appliance with an electric cooktop and an electric oven) and the size of the wire present. Most of the time a stove will require a 50amp breaker. This will mean that you would need to have 6 gauge wiring. You can probably get by with a 40 amp breaker and 8 gauge wire if you absolutely had to. Always check the appliance specifications. they will recommend a breaker size.
If the appliance is just to be plugged into a circuit with multiple outlets then you just need to make sure that the sum of currents for all devices on the circuit are less than the rated current. A rule of thumb is total current should be no greater than 80% of the rated current. So you might have a 20 A breaker and several 2.5 A appliances on this circuit. If you have a dedicated circuit for the appliance you would only need to size the breaker for the maximum current being drawn by the appliance. If the appliance contained a motor then there might be a start-up current that might be as high as 15 amps so you would likely go to a 20 amp breaker for a safety margin. As a practical matter a dedicated circuit for an appliance in the 2.5 amp range should have a 15 amp breaker. I always install a 20 amp breaker just for added margin and possible future applications.
The appliance works perfectly. If you did it the other way around (50amps on a 30amp breaker, you would be tripping the breaker. Think of it as a mercury thermometer. The circuit breaker is the maximum temperature and the load on that breaker is the mercury. If the load is lower than the max, everything works beautifully. If the load becomes greater than the maximum rating, then things starting popping.