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- When wind blows over the ocean's surface, it transfers energy and creates waves.
- The crest is the top of the wave, the trough is the lowest point at the bottom between two crests, the wavelength is the distance between two wave crests, and the wave height is the distance between the bottom of the trough and the top of the crest.
- Waves move in an orbital, or circular, pattern. The wave base is equal to half of the wavelength.
- As a wave comes into shore, it drags on the bottom and comes in on an angle. When the wave gets to the shallow water at the shore, it becomes too steep to stay upright, and the top crashes forward and breaks.
- When waves hit the shore, they gradually wear it away by a process called erosion. Erosion can create wave-cut cliffs, sea caves, sea arches, and sea stacks.
- A current that runs parallel to the shoreline is called a longshore current. Sand and sediment from one part of the beach is deposited to another part of the beach by a process called longshore drift.
- Tides are caused by the moon's gravity pulling on Earth's oceans. There are two high tides and two low tides each day. The highest and lowest tides, called spring tides, occur during a new moon and full moon. The smallest tides, called neap tides, occur during the first and last moon quarters.
- The wind sets surface currents in motion. Differences in temperature and salinity set deep-water currents in motion.
- The Coriolis effect is the deflection of motion caused by Earth's rotation that causes moving objects to turn left in the Northern Hemisphere and to turn right in the Southern Hemisphere. Gyres are circular currents in all of the world's major oceans.
- Climate change influences sea level. Cooler temperatures (such as during an ice age) cause glaciers to form and sea level to drop. Warmer temperatures cause sea level to rise. Higher sea level causes more erosion along the shore.
What else can I help you with?
Why are most of the silt in the Mississippi delta is found farther out to sea than the sand sized particles are?
Silt particles are smaller and lighter than sand particles, so they can be carried farther out to sea by ocean currents before settling. Sand particles tend to settle closer to the shore due to their larger size and weight.
When wave come nears shore?
As a wave approaches the shore, its height increases and its speed decreases. This causes the wave's energy to be concentrated, leading to the wave breaking as it reaches shallow water near the shore. The breaking of the wave causes it to release its energy, creating the crashing sound associated with waves hitting the shore.
Are heavy waves caused by hurricane are called rip tide?
Heavy waves caused by hurricanes are not called rip tides. Waves causes by hurricanes are called waves. Rip tides are occur closer to the shore line.
Does a lake freeze fom middle to shore or from shore to middle?
A lake typically freezes from the shore towards the middle. As the water closer to the shore is shallower and cools more quickly, ice forms there first before spreading towards the deeper middle of the lake.
How far is the horizon from shore?
The distance to the horizon from the shore depends on the height of the observer's eyes above sea level. On average, a person standing at sea level on the shore can see approximately 3 miles to the horizon. If the observer is standing at a higher elevation, such as on a cliff or in a tall building, they can see farther.
Has the little mermaid statue ever been farther from the shore in the past?
Both the statue in Copenhagen and Vancouver have been closer to the shore, never farther, as the land in both places is rising.
When the ocean washes farther up on the shore?
WHEN THE OCEAN WASHES farther up on shore
Is water hotter when it's closer to the shore?
Yes, water is hotter when it is closer to the shore because it is more shallow and greater surface area for the sun to heat up.
Why are most of the silt in the Mississippi delta is found farther out to sea than the sand sized particles are?
Silt particles are smaller and lighter than sand particles, so they can be carried farther out to sea by ocean currents before settling. Sand particles tend to settle closer to the shore due to their larger size and weight.
Is there a sequel to the book Star Trek Voyager homecoming?
Yes it is known as The Farther Shore
How tall do tsunamis get?
It increases because it gets closer to shore. At the core of an earthquake, it shakes a lot but not that much so it has strong waves. But, the farther you go (not too far) the stronger the waves are.
Will the sharks be closer to the shore now that the oil spill happened?
i think yes
Do tsunamis closer to shore cause more destruction than tsunamis that happen farther from shore?
The wave could appear quite small out in the open ocean. Friction with the shallowing seabed near the shore causes the bottom of the wave to slow, while the top of the wave continues on, gaining height. It is the momentum, volume and power held in the wave that drives the wave up on to the land until the power is dissipated and the wave flows back to the sea. As the wave moves over and backwards it picks up anything not substantial enough to remain rooted to the land. Cars, boats, etc are used as battering-rams causing even more destruction.
What has the author Matthew Eck written?
Matthew Eck has written: 'The farther shore' -- subject(s): Fiction, History
How far from shore is the break at teahupo'o?
An average About 150 ft depending how big the swell is. If the swell is bigger the crest is further out and if its smaller the crest is closer to shore
What causes breakers to form?
When the wave approach the coastline, the height of the wave changes because of the density in the water between the top of the breaker and the sand .So when the wave gets closer to the shore it gets smaller in till it tumbles over.
When wave come nears shore?
As a wave approaches the shore, its height increases and its speed decreases. This causes the wave's energy to be concentrated, leading to the wave breaking as it reaches shallow water near the shore. The breaking of the wave causes it to release its energy, creating the crashing sound associated with waves hitting the shore.
