The black wire originating from a breaker box or fuse box is the live wire. However, in certain cases, the grey (or white) neutral wire can also be live. For example, the black wire may feed a lighting outlet, and if the neutral wire is broken on its way back to the neutral bar in the panel, then the neutral wire from the lighting outlet will be hot, because there is an electrical path from the black wire, through the light, and to the neutral. The point is, always check with a voltmeter before assuming the white or grey wire is not live.
Neutral is neither Hot nor ground. Neutral is the return wire for electrical service. It is a requirement , by law, that the Neutral Wire Feed into an electrical service box (main panel) be BONDED to the box and the Earth ground. Thie effectively makes the neutral in circuits out of the service panel equal to ground. But as it enters the service panel from the utility and meter pan, it is not ground. <<>> The only time that the neutral can have voltage on it is if it gets disconnected from the distribution point. Then the voltage that is supplied to the load will continue through the load and stop at the disconnection point. If you touch the uninsulated part of the neutral wire and touch any grounded equipment at the same time your body will act as a conductor for the load circuit. You will receive a nasty shock. This scenario is the only time that the neutral is "hot".
If the electrical box is grounded, check with a tester, the "hot" wire will have a voltage to the the grounded box the neutral wire will not. If the box is not grounded, with the breaker supplying the voltage turned off, use a tester on the resistance scale to check for continuity between the wires and a cold water pipe or some other grounded medium. The neutral will have continuity between the wire and a ground the "hot" wire will not.
No, the switch just breaks the hot side of the circuit. The incoming hot wire should be connected to the top screw and the load side of the switch should be connected to the bottom screw. The neutral wire is usually connected together with a wire nut and pushed to the back of the switch box.
Ground wire can be appropriately bonded to the neutral and cabinet at the service box by connecting the neutral and ground wires from the feeder wires to the neutral bus bar and the ground terminal located on the same cabinet at the service box. White wire (neutral) must be connected to bus bar and bare wire must be connected to ground terminal in the same cabinet.
red
The black wire originating from a breaker box or fuse box is the live wire. However, in certain cases, the grey (or white) neutral wire can also be live. For example, the black wire may feed a lighting outlet, and if the neutral wire is broken on its way back to the neutral bar in the panel, then the neutral wire from the lighting outlet will be hot, because there is an electrical path from the black wire, through the light, and to the neutral. The point is, always check with a voltmeter before assuming the white or grey wire is not live.
Neutral is neither Hot nor ground. Neutral is the return wire for electrical service. It is a requirement , by law, that the Neutral Wire Feed into an electrical service box (main panel) be BONDED to the box and the Earth ground. Thie effectively makes the neutral in circuits out of the service panel equal to ground. But as it enters the service panel from the utility and meter pan, it is not ground. <<>> The only time that the neutral can have voltage on it is if it gets disconnected from the distribution point. Then the voltage that is supplied to the load will continue through the load and stop at the disconnection point. If you touch the uninsulated part of the neutral wire and touch any grounded equipment at the same time your body will act as a conductor for the load circuit. You will receive a nasty shock. This scenario is the only time that the neutral is "hot".
If the electrical box is grounded, check with a tester, the "hot" wire will have a voltage to the the grounded box the neutral wire will not. If the box is not grounded, with the breaker supplying the voltage turned off, use a tester on the resistance scale to check for continuity between the wires and a cold water pipe or some other grounded medium. The neutral will have continuity between the wire and a ground the "hot" wire will not.
Yes provided you have a ground, neutral and hot wire coming to the box.
No, that alone would not cause a GFCI to trip because that is the proper way to wire a panel.
You should be able to see the results of over heating. The white wire where it is terminated will turn to a dark brown colour. The terminal screw will probably be loose if you are able to turn it at all. Be careful when you work on the neutral wire as it may be carrying the unbalanced current from another circuit. If you disconnect it from the neutral bar while the panel is still energized, and you get between the end of the neutral and ground, you will receive a shock.
no
No, the switch just breaks the hot side of the circuit. The incoming hot wire should be connected to the top screw and the load side of the switch should be connected to the bottom screw. The neutral wire is usually connected together with a wire nut and pushed to the back of the switch box.
Ground wire can be appropriately bonded to the neutral and cabinet at the service box by connecting the neutral and ground wires from the feeder wires to the neutral bus bar and the ground terminal located on the same cabinet at the service box. White wire (neutral) must be connected to bus bar and bare wire must be connected to ground terminal in the same cabinet.
Normally the white wire is neutral, and the black is hot. But if the power comes into the ceiling box and the light is controlled by a switch leg the white my very well be hot. If there is only one wire in the switch box that is a switch leg.
Only the main panel is grounded directly because if you ground each junction box of subpanel ground loop current paths are possible that can cause shock hazards. The ground rod is connected to main panel and the neutral is bonded to that ground as is the ground wire. The neutral and ground wire are then run to all circuits, junction boxes and subpanels throughout the house. If you tie neutral and ground together at any point in the house, other than the main panel ground loops can exist and cause shocks.