The T and P valve is the temperature and pressure valve that is used on hot water tanks as a safety device. The temperature rating is up to 210 degrees F and a water pressure up to 150 psig. (pound-force per square inch gauge) before the safety valve trips to relieve water and lower the pressure inside the tank. When the safety valve trips it allows cooler water to enter the tank to cool off the hot water that tripped the valve in the first place. The valve is usually located on the outflow of the tank as the temperature probe has to be located within 6 inches from the top of the tank where the water temperature will be the hottest.
The power rating of the electric space heater is 3480 watts (29 A * 120 V).
The T and P valve is the temperature and pressure valve that is used on hot water tanks as a safety device. The temperature rating is up to 210 degrees F and a water pressure up to 150 psig. (pound force per square inch gauge) before the safety valve trips to relieve water and lower the pressure inside the tank. When the safety valve trips it allows cooler water to enter the tank to cool off the hot water that tripped the valve in the first place. The valve is usually located on the outflow of the tank as the temperature probe has to be located within 6 inches from the top of the tank where the water temperature will be the hottest. The valve is self resetting as soon as the pressure is reduced or the temperature lowers to below the set point of the valve.
The amperage of an electric heater depends on its power rating in watts and the voltage it operates on. To determine the amperage, divide the wattage by the voltage (Amperes = Watts / Volts). For example, a 1500 watt electric heater running on 120 volts would use 12.5 amperes (1500 watts / 120 volts = 12.5 A).
First, calculate the power of the electric heater using the formula P = I^2 * R, where I is the current and R is the resistance. P = 5^2 * 50 = 1250 watts. Convert the time from minutes to hours: 5 minutes = 5/60 hours = 1/12 hours. Calculate the energy used by the electric heater using the formula E = P * t, where t is the time in hours. E = 1250 * (1/12) = 104.17 watt-hours. Convert the energy to kilojoules by dividing by 3600 (since 1 watt-hour is equal to 3600 joules): 104.17 / 3600 = 0.029 kilojoules.
First, calculate the heat needed using the formula Q = mcΔT, where Q is the heat, m is the mass of water, c is the specific heat capacity of water, and ΔT is the temperature change. Then use the formula P = Q/t, where P is the power of the heater and t is the time taken to heat the water. Solving for t will give you the time in minutes.
T&P valve.
165
Depends on the height of the hearter of course
Either T&P valve is bad, water pressure too high, water overheated because of faulty element.
I was charged $464.00 and I thought that was a bit rich to replace a T&P Valve today 26/09/11
First, disconnect energy supply, IE. Electric breaker, Gas valve. Locate drain valve at bottom of water heater, connect garden hose to valve. Run water hose to drain adequate to accept a lot of water at once, must be lower than drain valve on water heater or if it's not an issue where you live simply run hose to somewhere outside where hot water isn't going to cause a problem (watch flower beds, children, pets getting too close etc. Weight the end of the hose so it doesn't flop around uncontrolled. Now just leave the water valve turned ON and ope the drain valve. Water will enter the top ,exit the bottom. This is a flush. If you have hard water with no water filters and your water heater's quite old this might not be accomplishing much.
Shut off fuel supply. Allow to cool. Close the inlet and out let valves. Open the drain valve bottom of heater. Open the T&P to break Vacuum. Have a hose attached to dump water in a safe area. If you are draining heater to flush don't shut off fuel supply. On a power vent heater (pvc venting) you can turn the switch off. On a conventional heater with metal flue pipe turn to the vacation setting (lowest temp setting). when your heater is refilled you can switch on or turn temp setting to original position without bleeding gas and relighting. Waiting for a sitting heater to cool will take hours. You can run hot water in house with heater off until cold. You should not have an outlet valve on a hot water heater if you do remove it. Open hot water in building to vent. Opening and old T&P will weaken the spring even more so if hot water runs through it and may cause it to fail (drip) later with water on. Some drain valves drip later with water on have a 3/4 garden hose cap with washer for valve if it leaks as opposed to replacing drain valve.
It is the drain for the Temperature and Pressure relief valve (T&P valve, or TPV). It's function is to release pressure from the water heater if the pressure or temperature of the water exceeds preset limits. Do not cap off the pipe, or remove the T&P valve or alter it in any way. Doing so could cause serious injury or death! If you notice water dripping or running from the pipe, call a plumber to check it.
That would depend on the size and heating capacity of the water heater. You need a temperature and pressure relief valve ( not a pop valve which is pressure only) with an ASME rating at or above the input rating on the water heater. For example: a domestic, gas fired, 40 US gallon water heater might have 36,000 BTU per hour input rating. The pressure relief might be set to 125 or 150 psi, but the temperature rating would have to be at least 36,000 BTUH. A 3/4" T&P relief valve typically is rated at 100,000 btu per hour. If you are dealing with a larger unit ( a 50 or 60 gallon tank, or a cyclone ) you will have to check the rating plate to get the proper relief valve.
The power rating of the electric space heater is 3480 watts (29 A * 120 V).
Good question. There are a few simple answers. Most solders begin to become "plastic" at around 350 degrees Fahrenheit and melt at slightly higher temperatures than even that. If you are asking about a hot water heater: If you are operating your water heating system at that temperature the water will have already boiled off and most likely the heater will either have exploded, the P/T relief valve dumped or both. If you are asking about an electric heater, do not try to melt solder on it. The heating element is electrically "hot" and could present an extreme shock hazard. The best way to melt solder is with with a soldering iron or some kind of torch. Hope this helps
The Tank Is Old The Drain Valve Is Loose There’s Too Much Pressure The T&P Valve Is Malfunctioning The Inlet and Outlet Connections Are Loose There’s a Problem with the Internal Shell Sediment Has Created Cracks The Storage Tank Is Cracked The Anode Rod Has Corroded