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dispersion of water waves generally refers to frequency dispersion, which means that waves of different wavelengths travel at different phase speeds. Water waves, in this context, are waves propagating on the water surface, and forced by gravity and surface tension.

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What part of the water is affected by a wave in deep water?

The water molecules of a deep-water wave move in a circular motion. The diameter of the motion decreases with the distance from the surface. The motion is felt down to a distance of approximately one wavelength, where the wave's energy becomes negligible.


Describe water movement when a wave passes through it?

Water molecules move in an elliptical orbit as a wave passes through them. As the wave passes, the water molecules return to their original position, with no net movement in the direction of the wave. The energy of the wave is what propagates through the water, not the water itself.


Why is a ocean wave classified as a surface wave?

An ocean wave is classified as a surface wave because it travels along the interface between two mediums - air and water. The motion of the water particles decreases with depth, showing that the wave energy is confined to the water's surface. This distinguishes it from internal waves, which propagate beneath the water's surface.


What does not affect wave height in deep water?

Water depth does not affect wave height in deep water. In deep water, the wave height is determined by the wind speed, duration, and fetch (distance wind has traveled over water).


Why does tsunami wave grow so high when it reaches the shore?

When a wave is traveling in deep water, its bottom is at a set depth. As it comes ashore, the wave tries to stay the same wave height. since the land is denser than the water, the water is forced upward. That upward movement is the height of the tsunami.

Related Questions

Which kind of wave is a water wave?

A water wave is a mechanical wave that travels on the surface of a body of water, transferring energy through the oscillation of particles in the water. It is a transverse wave, with the particles of water moving perpendicular to the direction of the wave.


Is water a mechanical wave or an electromagnetic wave?

Water is not a wave but a substance!


What type of wave cannot travel completely through water?

The S Wave (Secondary Wave) cannot travel through water. On the P Wave (Primary Wave) and the Surface Wave can travel through water.


What happens when a wave moves through the water?

When a wave moves through water, the water particles move in a circular motion within the wave. As the wave passes, the water particles oscillate up and down, transferring energy but not water along with the wave's direction.


How both a wave's energy and the water in a wave move?

Ocean water within a wave moves in a circular motion in open water. As the wave approaches the shore, the water becomes shallow and the bottom.


What is the medium through which an ocean wave will travel?

An ocean wave will travel through a medium of water, with the energy of the wave causing the water particles to move in a circular orbit as the wave passes through. This movement transfers the energy of the wave across the water's surface.


Is a water wave a mechanical wave?

Yes, a water wave is a mechanical wave because it requires a medium (water) to propagate. It transfers energy through the water by causing particles to oscillate back and forth as the wave passes through.


Is a tidal wave a mechanical wave?

A tidal wave is a water wave so it is a mechanical wave.


Do water particles travel with the wave?

In a wave, the energy is transferred through the water rather than the actual water particles moving along with the wave. The water particles move in a circular motion as the wave passes through them, but they do not travel in the direction of the wave.


What part of the water is affected by a wave in deep water?

The water molecules of a deep-water wave move in a circular motion. The diameter of the motion decreases with the distance from the surface. The motion is felt down to a distance of approximately one wavelength, where the wave's energy becomes negligible.


Is an water wave a mechanical wave?

yes it is


Why is an ocean wave a transverse wave?

An ocean wave is a transverse wave because the motion of the water particles is perpendicular to the direction of the wave propagation. As the wave passes through the water, the water particles move up and down in a vertical direction, while the wave itself travels horizontally.