Top of the outlet should be 3 to 4 feet above the floor. I recommend 3' as it will be hidden and out of sight and still easy to plug in.
While you can physically do this it violates the Electrical Code. 110 Volt and 220 Volt receptacles are required by the Electrical Code to be on separate breakers for safety reasons, this would put them on the same 220 Volt breaker.
No. To prevent this sort of thing from happening, the 277 volt device and receptacle is physically larger that a 240 volt receptacle and will not fit in a regular receptacle junction box. For a 277 volt system the proper size junction boxes have to be purchased.
Yes, most definitely. Provisions for the ground wire in the dryer receptacle should be used. The feeder cable's ground wire is first grounded to the receptacle's junction box ground screw and then taken to the receptacle's ground terminal. The dryer plug configuration will match up to the dryers four wire plug in cable. When the plug is connected into the dryer receptacle the ground terminals of both devices will match and the ground wire will be continuous from the voltage source at the distribution panel and complete the circuit at the dryer. This low impedance electrical path will conduct any ground fault that could occur at the dryer and trip the feeder breaker of the dryer circuit, there by removing the fault current from the dryer circuit.
Yes
No, it just has an additional conductor to separate the neutral from the ground, and has a third prong in the receptacle to receive the appliance grounding conductor through the cordset.
While you can physically do this it violates the Electrical Code. 110 Volt and 220 Volt receptacles are required by the Electrical Code to be on separate breakers for safety reasons, this would put them on the same 220 Volt breaker.
You tell yourself the 125 volt receptacle is a 120 volt receptacle. They're the same thing.
The proper electrical requirement for a 30 amp dryer receptacle is a dedicated 240 volt circuit with a 30 amp circuit breaker and a 3-prong or 4-prong outlet.
No. To prevent this sort of thing from happening, the 277 volt device and receptacle is physically larger that a 240 volt receptacle and will not fit in a regular receptacle junction box. For a 277 volt system the proper size junction boxes have to be purchased.
Yes, most definitely. Provisions for the ground wire in the dryer receptacle should be used. The feeder cable's ground wire is first grounded to the receptacle's junction box ground screw and then taken to the receptacle's ground terminal. The dryer plug configuration will match up to the dryers four wire plug in cable. When the plug is connected into the dryer receptacle the ground terminals of both devices will match and the ground wire will be continuous from the voltage source at the distribution panel and complete the circuit at the dryer. This low impedance electrical path will conduct any ground fault that could occur at the dryer and trip the feeder breaker of the dryer circuit, there by removing the fault current from the dryer circuit.
Yes
The maximum current rating for a 20 amp 250 volt receptacle is 20 amps.
No, it just has an additional conductor to separate the neutral from the ground, and has a third prong in the receptacle to receive the appliance grounding conductor through the cordset.
Yes, a 110 volt device can be plugged into a 125 volt receptacle. The voltage rating on the receptacle is only there as the highest voltage supply that the manufacturer recommends their equipment be connected to.
No, the electrical insulation rating of a 15 amp duplex receptacle is only rated at 130 volts. The 15 amp 240 volt receptacle is rated at 250 volts. The 240 volt receptacle also has a tandem pin configuration instead of the parallel configuration of the 120 volt device. The different pin configuration is so that a 120 volt electrical device can not be plugged into a 240 voltage receptacle.
To start I would check the connections on the receptacle. Next change the receptacle. It sounds to me there is a corrosion problem here...pkazsr
Technically, 110-volt and 120-volt receptacles are not exactly the same. However, in practical terms, they are often used interchangeably as the standard voltage in the United States has become 120 volts. Most modern appliances are designed to work within a range of voltages, so a device rated for 110 volts should work fine in a 120-volt receptacle.