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The waves reaching shore are generally independent of the local wind conditions; they originate far out to sea and have too much momentum for local winds to reverse their flow.
In general terms, winds on the open ocean generate waves because of the small amount of friction between the air and the surface of the water. The formation, combination, and propagation of those waves are functions of the wind speed, direction and (growing) height of the waves. Furthermore, the distance to land (called the "fetch") can allow, to a point, continued growth of the waves.
Upon approaching a shoreline, the accumulated momentum simply overwhelms the force of the wind blowing in the other direction. Even the strongest local winds, blowing offshore, cannot reverse the progress of the waves, though it can lead to spectacular instances of spray blowback as waves break.
What else can I help you with?
How can an object slowing down have an acceleration that's not negative?
If the positive direction was defined at the outset as the direction opposite to the direction in which the object happens to be moving just now, and the object is slowing down, then the acceleration is positive because, algebraically, the object's speed is increasing in the positive direction.
What occurs when two or more waves overlap and combine?
They superpose. Energy of the waves are redistributed to form a resultant wave with amplitude given by the summation of individual wave's amplitude. If the two waves are of same frequency, speed and amplitude and travelling in opposite direction den stationary waves are form.
How does the wind pushes the water?
Wind pushes water by creating friction at the surface of the water, causing it to move in the direction of the wind. This movement transfers energy to the water, creating waves and currents. Strong winds can cause large waves and can even create storm surges in severe weather events.
Why do S waves not come to the surface beyond the shadow zone?
S waves do not pass through Earth's liquid outer core, which causes a shadow zone on the opposite side of the Earth from an earthquake. The liquid outer core absorbs and blocks S waves, preventing them from reaching the surface beyond the shadow zone.
What is the difference between a tidal wave and a rogue wave?
A tidal wave (AKA a Tsunami) is caused by an earthquake. It is more of a wall of water and a rise of sea level. when a tidal wave is coming, water will be sucked out from shore rapidly. Tidal waves usually aren't more than 3 feet in open water because in open water it is usually more than 600 feet deep. Rogue Waves can occur in open water and aren't usually caused by earthquakes but just waves that build up. Rogue waves come undetected. Tidal waves have signs. Both are huge in size, up to 100+ ft. Tidal Waves tend to crash on shore while Rogue Waves are violent waves in open water.
How do waves even out the shoreline?
Waves even out a shoreline by eroding it.The waves coming to shore gradually change direction, as different parts of the wave begins to drag the bottom.The energy of the wave is concentrated on headlands, part of the shore that sticks out into the ocean.As waves erode the headlands the shoreline will eventually even out.Tee Hee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ___------ -/---- ----\/--- --- \------------ ---- --
How do you Explain how waves even out the shore line?
Waves even out the shoreline by breaking against the coast, gradually eroding high points and depositing sediment in low areas. As waves approach the shore, they lose energy, causing them to slow down and change direction, which leads to the redistribution of sediment along the coastline, resulting in a more uniform shoreline over time.
When two mechanical waves coincide the amplitude of the resultant?
When two mechanical waves coincide, the amplitude of the resultant wave is the sum of the amplitudes of the two waves. If the waves have the same phase and travel in the same direction, they will constructively interfere, resulting in a higher amplitude. If they have opposite phases, they will destructively interfere, leading to a lower amplitude or even cancellation.
Will an object move in the opposite direction when force is applied to it?
I don't even know
When Michelson and Morley measured the speed of light in various directiion they discovered that?
... its speed is the same in any direction, even if you're movingin that direction or in the direction opposite to it.
Can the velocity of object reverse direction when its acceleration is constant?
Yes, the velocity of an object can reverse direction even when its acceleration is constant. This can happen when the object is subjected to an acceleration in the opposite direction to its initial velocity, causing it to slow down and eventually reverse direction.
How high are the waves on the north shore of Oahu?
The waves on the north shore of Oahu can vary in height depending on the time of year and weather conditions. However, during the winter months, it is common to have waves that can reach heights of 20-40 feet or even higher, making it a popular destination for surfers. It is important to check local surf reports and warnings before heading out into the water.
Which way do twin screw props on a boat rotate when propelling the boat forward?
In opposite direction, but they are designed to propel the boat forward even if they rotate in opposite directions.
Why are electromagnetic waves sometimes called transverse waves?
Because the theory is that this is what the form is. If it were a longitudinal or compressional form (such as sound) it would need to travel through a medium of some sort to compress the particles of that medium. But electromagnetic radiation can travel even in a vacuum.
What wave has peaks and valleys?
All of them. Electromagnetic, sound, even a water wave until it hits shore.
How can you use constant motion in a sentence?
Even though we aren't always conscious of it, the earth, moon and the sun are in constant motion.
How do unbalanced forces change the speed?
Unbalanced forces can change the speed of an object by causing it to accelerate in the direction of the greater force. If the unbalanced force is in the direction of motion, the object will speed up. If it is in the opposite direction, the object will slow down or even come to a stop.
