I do not even know that it is the light switch that is popping your circuit breaker! It may be the switch or something else. The light switch controls a circuit. As electricity passes through that circuit it is heating up a contact or a weak place in a wire. At a certain point that hot place in a connector or in a wire allows the electricity to jump out of the circuit and not go through the light. When that happens, the circuit breaker pops.
You can turn off the circuit breaker. Then you can look at the connectors on your light switch. If one of them looks burned, You have solved the problem. You replace the light switch. Next comes the more difficult task of looking at the connectors for your lamp. If they are not easy to get to, you call an electrician.
A 15 amp breaker is not sufficient for a 225 amp load. You would need a breaker that matches the load current, such as a 225 amp breaker. Using a 15 amp breaker for a 225 amp load would cause the breaker to trip immediately due to overcurrent.
Yes, you need to use a mini breaker panel with a 15A circuit breaker to safely connect a 15A receptacle to a 30A line. The breaker panel will protect the receptacle and wiring from the higher current capacity of the 30A line, preventing potential overheating or damage. It's important to match the amperage of the circuit breaker with the rating of the receptacle to ensure safe electrical operation.
I know what would happen. The three amp fuse would blow. Any device that is plugged into a receptacle with out having sufficient resistance to limit the current flow will dead short the circuit and cause the breaker that feeds the circuit to trip. In this case the fuse being of a lower rating that the feed breaker the fuse will blow without tripping the receptacle's feed breaker.
If the damaged receptacle faulted the breaker would have tripped. All that needs to be done is turn the breaker to the full off position. This will take the breaker out of the trip position and the circuit is truly off. It should not be hard to find the faulted receptacle as it will have some major damage to it and that is what made it short out in the first place. Change it out for a new one and test the circuit by plugging a lamp into it to confirm that the wiring was done properly. When removing the faulted receptacle check the wire colours and positions and install the new one with the exactly the same wire position configuration. If the damaged receptacle is just worn out and they do wear out, plug a light fixture into the worn receptacle. With the lamp turned on start switching the individual breakers off in the distribution panel one at a time. Just switch the breaker off and on and see if the lamp goes out and comes back on. You will probably need help with this part if you can not see the lamp from the distribution panel. When you locate the breaker that controls the lamp, leave it off and change out the receptacle just as they were connected to the old worn out one.
Are any of the outlets OUTDOORS? If so, and if an outlet is getting wet, it will trip the GFIC immediately. If that's not it, unplug everything, reset the GFI and see what happens. If it still trips, make certain that the wires aren't getting wet somewhere. If THAT'S not helpful, replace the GFI.
Assuming you are referring to the power supply failing in your 20A device, it could cause the 30A breaker protecting the receptacle to trip. It depends on the mode of failure. It is easy to imagine a condition where a short in the power supply could cause a current in excess of 30A to flow to the device and trip the breaker.
A 15 amp breaker is not sufficient for a 225 amp load. You would need a breaker that matches the load current, such as a 225 amp breaker. Using a 15 amp breaker for a 225 amp load would cause the breaker to trip immediately due to overcurrent.
Yes, that is one combination you can use.
You can always run under a receptacles rating. This just means how much current can be drawn thru the breaker before it will trip.
This happens quite often. The new counter plug is a split receptacle. There is a tie bar that has to be removed between the red wire and the black wire on the same side of the receptacle. A pair of needle nose pliers will do the job. If you look at the one that was removed you will see where it has been taken out. The way it is wired now you are shorting out the two hot wires and that is why the breaker trips.
Yes, you need to use a mini breaker panel with a 15A circuit breaker to safely connect a 15A receptacle to a 30A line. The breaker panel will protect the receptacle and wiring from the higher current capacity of the 30A line, preventing potential overheating or damage. It's important to match the amperage of the circuit breaker with the rating of the receptacle to ensure safe electrical operation.
Not only is it good to put a ground on a receptacle it is mandatory by the electrical code rules. The ground is installed to provide a low impedance return to the distribution panel to trip the breaker supplying the circuit in case of a ground fault occurring on the circuit.
Yes as long as you change the 50 amp breaker to a 15 amp breaker. You will be hard pressed to get the 50 amp #6 wire under the terminals of the 15 amp receptacle.
Not only is it good to put a ground on a receptacle it is mandatory by the electrical code rules. The ground is installed to provide a low impedance return to the distribution panel to trip the breaker supplying the circuit in case of a ground fault occurring on the circuit.
Check your circuit breaker. The receptacle may be malfunctioning or you may be overloading the circuit when trying to do the reset.
Not if the GFCI breaker is supplying the circuit you are wanting to put the GFCI receptacle into.
I know what would happen. The three amp fuse would blow. Any device that is plugged into a receptacle with out having sufficient resistance to limit the current flow will dead short the circuit and cause the breaker that feeds the circuit to trip. In this case the fuse being of a lower rating that the feed breaker the fuse will blow without tripping the receptacle's feed breaker.