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Depending on height at origin as it approaches the coastal shelf it will rise and increase the strength of the wave. for example a wave 50ft high approaching the atlantic coastal shelf could rise to 150-200 feet with disastrious ramifications.
Amplitude. The wavelength decreases accordingly. Waves travelling through deep water - even tsunami waves, can have a surprisingly low amplitude (height) of just a few cms, but a very low frequency and long wavelength. They can travel fast too. But as they come into shallower water the wavelength drops and as a consequence the amplitude rapidly increases, creating the much larger waves we see on the shore itself.
Gravity
friction
chuck norris If anybodyever sees this Brandon James Gardner answered this.
Depending on height at origin as it approaches the coastal shelf it will rise and increase the strength of the wave. for example a wave 50ft high approaching the atlantic coastal shelf could rise to 150-200 feet with disastrious ramifications.
It becomes bigger :)
Amplitude. The wavelength decreases accordingly. Waves travelling through deep water - even tsunami waves, can have a surprisingly low amplitude (height) of just a few cms, but a very low frequency and long wavelength. They can travel fast too. But as they come into shallower water the wavelength drops and as a consequence the amplitude rapidly increases, creating the much larger waves we see on the shore itself.
The large water waves created near the land's shore are caused from fast moving, but small-amplitude waves created deeper in the ocean. Conceptually, the velocity of a water wave in deep water is dependent on its wavelength. As the wave nears the shore, its wavelength gets smaller and smaller, therefore its velocity gets slower and slower. Well, a wave's velocity multiplied by its energy density is a constant, so if the velocity of a water wave gets smaller, its energy density must get larger. This increase of energy density is seen as an increase in the height of the wave.
friction
Gravity
The wavelength decreases
Wavelength and frequency are locked together in an inverse proportionality. If the frequency of a wave is constant, the wavelength of the wave will be constant. Increase one and the other decreases. Decrease one and the other increases. That said, let's look at the dynamics of a tsunami, which may be the general direction in which this was heading. In a tsunami, the wave moves very quickly in the open ocean, and it has a long wavelength. As it closes on shore, the leading edge of the wave slows down as the sea bottom "rises up" to meet the wave. As the leading edge of the wave continues to slow down, the "rest of the wave" begins to "catch up" with the wave front. This causes the wave to build; its height will increase. The actual wavelength is decreasing (and its frequency will be increasing), and the wave continues to slow down. Higher and higher it will build, and then it will break on the shore and carry inland.
Wavelength and frequency are locked together in an inverse proportionality. If the frequency of a wave is constant, the wavelength of the wave will be constant. Increase one and the other decreases. Decrease one and the other increases. That said, let's look at the dynamics of a tsunami, which may be the general direction in which this was heading. In a tsunami, the wave moves very quickly in the open ocean, and it has a long wavelength. As it closes on shore, the leading edge of the wave slows down as the sea bottom "rises up" to meet the wave. As the leading edge of the wave continues to slow down, the "rest of the wave" begins to "catch up" with the wave front. This causes the wave to build; its height will increase. The actual wavelength is decreasing (and its frequency will be increasing), and the wave continues to slow down. Higher and higher it will build, and then it will break on the shore and carry inland.
chuck norris If anybodyever sees this Brandon James Gardner answered this.
Depending on height at origin as it approaches the coastal shelf it will rise and increase the strength of the wave. for example a wave 50ft high approaching the atlantic coastal shelf could rise to 150-200 feet with disastrious ramifications.
5'6"