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My interpretation of the text below is that conductive is the safest option for electronics and explosives, while ESD provides some protection for the wearer from being shocked by high voltage equipment, but because of this, it allows the wearer build up a higher charge then the conductive style (due to the difference in resistivity).

from ASTM F2413...

5.4 Conductive Protective Footwear:

5.4.1 Conductive footwear shall also meet the requirements

of 5.1 for impact resistant footwear and 5.2 for compression

resistant footwear.

5.4.2 Footwear shall be designed, constructed, and manufactured

to provide protection for the wearer against hazards

that may result from static electricity buildup and to reduce the

possibility of ignition of explosives or volatile chemicals.

5.4.2.1 Footwear shall dissipate static electricity from the

body to reduce the possibility of ignition of volatile compounds.

5.4.2.2 Footwear shall be of a construction that facilitates a

stable electrically conductive path. All external components

shall be made of nonferrous materials.

5.4.2.3 Conductive footwear is not designed to be worn by

personnel working near open electrical circuits.

5.4.3 The workmanship in the production and assembly of

the footwear shall ensure that the footwear provides functionality

to the wearer.

5.4.3.1 The uppers shall be made of materials that facilitate

the dissipation of static electricity.

5.4.3.2 The insoles, linings, outsoles, and heels of the

footwear shall be made of any combination of materials and

compounds which will facilitate electrical conductivity and the

transfer of static electricity build up from the body to the

ground.

5.4.3.3 The recommended design of the outsole and heel is

a single unit. Where the outsole and heel are separate components,

the following practices shall be used.

(1) Heel shall be attached to outsole to ensure no disruption

in electrical conductivity.

(2) Non-ferrous heel nails shall be used to attach the heels

when heel nails are used. These nails shall be recessed within

the tread surface and then covered with conductive material.

These nails shall not be either exposed or visible.

5.4.4 Electrical resistance shall be determined by evaluating

the minimum number of specimens per lot size in accordance

with Test Methods F 2412.

5.4.4.1 The specimens shall demonstrate resistance between

0 to 500 000 ohms.

5.4.4.2 Any specimen or sample of conductive footwear that

does not meet the performance requirement constitutes a

failure for the lot.

5.6 Static Dissipative (SD) Footwear:

5.6.1 Static dissipative footwear shall also meet the requirements

of 5.1 for impact resistant footwear and 5.2 for compression

resistant footwear.

5.6.2 Static dissipative footwear shall be designed, constructed,

and manufactured to provide protection to the wearer

against hazards which may exist due to excessively low

footwear resistance in a work environment, as well as maintain

a sufficiently high level of resistance to reduce the possibility

of electrical shock in work areas where SD footwear is worn.

5.6.2.1 Footwear shall reduce the excess static electricity by

conducting the charge (from body) to ground while simultaneously

maintaining a sufficiently high level of resistance (106

ohms) (1 megohm) to protect the wearer when exposed to

hazards from incidental contact with live electric circuits.

5.6.2.2 Using human subjects, a pair of footwear shall have

a lower limit of electrical resistance of 106 ohms (1 megohm)

and have an upper limit electrical resistance of 108 ohms (100

megohms).

5.6.3 The workmanship in the production and assembly of

the footwear shall ensure that the footwear provides functionality

to the wearer.

5.6.3.1 The footwear shall use any combination of materials

that facilitate static dissipation by a consistent path of resistance.

5.6.3.2 The inconsistency of certain hygroscopic materials

can result in footwear not being able to consistently meet the

performance requirements of static dissipative footwear.

5.6.3.3 Heels shall be attached using non-ferrous heel nails.

These nails shall be recessed within the tread surface and then

covered with conductive material. These nails shall be neither

exposed nor visible.

5.6.4 Static dissipation shall be determined by evaluating

the minimum number of specimens per lot size in accordance

with Test Methods F 2412.

5.6.4.1 Any specimen that does not meet the performance

requirement constitutes a failure for the lot.

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