The energy in the wave .
When a wave moves through water, the water particles move in a circular motion within the wave. As the wave passes, the water particles oscillate up and down, transferring energy but not water along with the wave's direction.
In a water wave, it is the energy that moves forward, causing the water molecules to oscillate in a circular motion. This energy is transmitted through the water but the water molecules themselves do not travel long distances.
This describes a mechanical wave, where matter oscillates in the same direction as the wave propagation. An example of this is a water wave as the water moves up and down in the direction of the wave.
Circular motion. Each water particle in an ocean wave moves in a circular path as the energy from the wave passes through.
The water. More precisely, the water-air surface.
When a wave moves through water, the water particles move in a circular motion within the wave. As the wave passes, the water particles oscillate up and down, transferring energy but not water along with the wave's direction.
In a water wave, it is the energy that moves forward, causing the water molecules to oscillate in a circular motion. This energy is transmitted through the water but the water molecules themselves do not travel long distances.
This describes a mechanical wave, where matter oscillates in the same direction as the wave propagation. An example of this is a water wave as the water moves up and down in the direction of the wave.
The energy moves, not the water
Circular motion. Each water particle in an ocean wave moves in a circular path as the energy from the wave passes through.
The water. More precisely, the water-air surface.
As the wave energy passes through the water, the water particles themselves do not move with the wave. Instead, the particles oscillate in a circular motion, transferring energy from one particle to the next. The particles end up returning to their original position after the wave has passed.
That's because the water doesn't move, either. The water moves back and forth slightly, as a result of the wave; the wave energy moves on, WITHOUT taking the water with it. The wave is not a current.
The wave travels through the water without moving the water with it (the water moves but then as the wave passes the water moves back to where it was). The floating leaf stays with the water as the wave passes on its way to the shore.
Ocean water within a wave moves in a circular motion in open water. As the wave approaches the shore, the water becomes shallow and the bottom.
As a wave moves into shallow water, its speed decreases while its height increases. This is because the wave encounters the ocean floor, causing the wave to drag and become compressed. Ultimately, the wave may break or collapse as it approaches the shoreline.
Water moves up and down as the wave moves horizontally. The website below has examples of transverse waves.