The very first thing you do is shut the power off to that circuit if you are going to work on it. A regular duplex receptacle has 5 screws on it. With the receptacle facing you and the U ground pin facing down, the left side (neutral blade, silver screws) connects to the white (neutral) incoming wire. The right side (hot blade, gold screws) connects to the black (hot) incoming wire. The ground wire connects to the green screw on the receptacle Strip and wrap the wires around the appropriate screws. This leaves you two more screws on either side, tighten them snug as no wires go under them. Reinstall the receptacle back into the wall and turn the power back on.
A -dim- "hot/neutral reversed" indication means that there is -some- voltage, but less than 120V, on the neutral line, referenced to the safety ground. Ideally, the ground and neutral should be at the -same- potential, but a loose neutral connection "upstream" of this outlet will cause measurable voltage between ground and neutral. No need to swap any wires; just tighten neutral connections at all points (including outlets AND breaker panel) on the same circuit as this outlet. My guess is that whoever pulled the wire swapped the white/black wires from the point prior. Trace back the wire to the previous outlet and check the hook up. Try to swap your white/black line on the outlet and retest. If it checks ok, then the wire have been swapped from the previous point.
The current flows from the outlet to the load along two wires and it is best though of as the current flowing to the load along one wire and back again on the other. If the hot and neutral come into direct contact, the circuit breaker will trip, the fuse will blow or a fire will start. One of those three.
In North American residential homes, there are 3 wires coming from the utility company, two "hots" and neutral. The two "hot" conductors get connected to the main breaker. The neutral gets connected to the neutral bus bars located along the sides of the breaker box. There is a set screw that is placed in the neutral bar that screws into the distribution panel enclosure thereby bringing the potential of the neutral bars down to zero. The wire from your ground rod is also connected to the neutral bus bar, and thereby it is connected to the neutral from the power company. This is also often bonded to the copper cold water Plumbing in the house if the home is not plumbed in PVC water pipe. White circuit wires are then connected to the neutral bus bars. Also in the distribution panel are ground bus bars. The ground wires from circuit cables are connected to these grounding bars. Do not under any circumstance terminate the white and bare ground wires together. Ground wires to the ground bar and white wires to the neutral bar.
Firstly measure the voltage between your live and earth.Assuming you get ~120 volts here, the problem is a loose neutral somewhere along the line.If you get 24volts the problem is a bad earth connection, with a fault voltage on it.TBH it's most likely the former, as the latter implies 2 separate faults.
In North American residential homes, there are 3 wires coming from the utility company, two "hots" and neutral. The two "hot" conductors get connected to the main breaker. The neutral gets connected to the neutral bus bars located along the sides of the breaker box. There is a set screw that is placed in the neutral bar that screws into the distribution panel enclosure thereby bringing the potential of the neutral bars down to zero. The wire from your ground rod is also connected to the neutral bus bar, and thereby it is connected to the neutral from the power company. This is also often bonded to the copper cold water plumbing in the house if the home is not plumbed in PVC water pipe. White circuit wires are then connected to the neutral bus bars. Also in the distribution panel are ground bus bars. The ground wires from circuit cables are connected to these grounding bars. Do not under any circumstance terminate the white and bare ground wires together. Ground wires to the ground bar and white wires to the neutral bar.
To learn how to cut outlets in drywall effectively, you can follow these steps: Measure and mark the location of the outlet on the drywall. Use a utility knife to score the outline of the outlet. Use a drywall saw to carefully cut along the scored lines. Test fit the outlet to ensure it fits properly. Secure the outlet in place using screws. Patch any rough edges with joint compound and sand smooth.
Put your dominant foot on the front bolts (screws) and push along the ground with the other. Once you have enough speed put your pushing foot on the back bolts and balance.
=== ====== === Old practice [accepted by National Electrical Code requirements] allowed the frame [chassis] of dryer to be bonded to the neutral conductor by a link to provide ground. New NEC requirements call for separation of neutral and ground paths. In a new house, or if you install a new cable to feed the dryer, you would be required to run a wire with an insulated neutral and a ground wire [10/3 with ground - 4 wires]There are 2 possibilities:One is that there is actually a 4-wire cable feeding that outlet, in which case you CAN change the dryer outlet to a 4 wire type - you just have to put the right wires on the right terminals and make sure the ground is connected in the panel. [Even though we only used 3 wire outlets, most electricians I know had run 10/3 with a ground for dryers in case the unit got hard-wired, which used to be allowed.]The second possible answer is that you are allowed [unless your township or city doesn't allow it - always check with them first] to establish a ground-to-neutral link inside the dryer unit for the chassis ground and replace the 4-wire plug with a 3-wire plug. [See NEC Article 250.140] Answer Some dryers also have devices (such as lights and the timer) that run on 120 volts. These need a neutral that is separate from the protective ground.I got a new dryer yesterday... the plug on it has four prongs and my old one has three prongs. So can the old three prong plug be taken off my old dryer and be put onto the new dryer? I notice my old three prong plug is not color coded like the one on the new one. Also when I took the old dryer off and unplugged it, a green ground wire was still fixed to it (the old dryer), so how would I ground the new dryer being that it only has three prongs? Thanks in advance. === ===
Mark the phases red (phase) black (phase) and blue (phase) along with a white (neutral) and a ground (wire size depends on the main breaker amperage) the phases attach to the main breaker unless it is a breakerless panel attach the phases to the lugs on the bus bars top or bottom then connect the neutral to the neutral bus and the ground to the panel
An FSS outlet is the Flight Service Station. It has weather information, and other information for pilots along their routes of flight.
Yes, in a 4-wire electrical service, the neutral wire is included along with the hot wires and ground wire. The neutral wire is used to complete the circuit and provides a return path for the current to flow back to the source.
Most standard household outlets are rated to handle up to 15 amps current. A 20 amp 120V outlet has a 'sideways T' looking slot for one of the prongs. That way you can plug in a standard plug, which requires less than 20 amps, or a special 20 amp plug, with one of the prongs sideways.