There are three major causes of hot screws on a receptacle.
1.. Overcurrent: Receptacles are usually rated at 15 amps, occasionally 20
amps. If the circuit breaker feeding it is too large or faulty, the receptacle
could overheat due to the loads it is feeding.
2.. Loose screws at the receptacle. This condition leads to arcing at
the receptacle and evetually, fire.
3.. Copper contamination. Carbonization or crystalization can occur on the
conductors at the screw terminal. This can usually be cleaned up with
emery cloth.
A 15 amp breaker is not sufficient for a 225 amp load. You would need a breaker that matches the load current, such as a 225 amp breaker. Using a 15 amp breaker for a 225 amp load would cause the breaker to trip immediately due to overcurrent.
What would probably cause a forest habitat to become a desert?
Yes.
Most probably the receptacles downstream from the GFCI would not be protected by the GFCI receptacle.
To start I would check the connections on the receptacle. Next change the receptacle. It sounds to me there is a corrosion problem here...pkazsr
Electrically there is no reason you couldn't if the neutral exists in the switch box. But in a home, a switch is required just inside every door. So other arrangements would have to be made for that. Replacing a switch with a receptacle would mean there is no longer a switch, of course, for the lights. They would either be on all the time or off all the time. If you need a receptacle at this location, consider installing a combination unit with a switch and single receptacle on the same yoke.
Your pupils would dilate
An engineered set of drawings or blueprints would take precedence over all on an electrical project.
They get old and become weak.
cause they were able to follow the job
If the 2 hot wires are connected to either side of a receptacle, you have a 240v receptacle (assuming it's in the US). This is typically done for window air conditioners. But code requires that the receptacle have a different configuration than other receptacles in the building so you don't run the risk of plugging in a 120v device into a 240v receptacle.
For a 166 amp 3 phase circuit, you would typically need a receptacle that can handle at least 200 amps to provide a safe margin. This would usually correspond to a 208V or 240V 3 phase receptacle with appropriate amperage rating, such as a NEMA L15-30 or L16-30 receptacle. It's critical to consult with a qualified electrician or electrical engineer to ensure the correct receptacle is selected for your specific application and local electrical code requirements.