This is NOT something that was done at the Mint. It's a privately made novelty item, known as a Magician's Coin, created by altering two normal coins and joining the pieces back together. Use a magnifier to check just inside the rim on one side of the coin -- you are looking for the seam where the two pieces were joined -- it could be on either side of the coin.

They cost about $7-8 new from novelty shops and sell for $2-3 on eBay. They have no value to coin collectors, however, because they are privately made by damaging genuine coins.

The only possible good news is that if you have an older magician's quarter made before 1965, it would have enough silver in it that you could probably sell it to a scrap dealer for around $4.

The other thing you could do is hold onto it for magic tricks and making bets.... but be prepared to run fast if you use it for a bet.

See the related Web Links for more info.

Dan Moore The Working Man's Rare Coins http:/www.workingmancoins.com

More info :

Its amazing how many of these are turning up on this board. Follow the links to the previous questions. Yours is just like all the others.

You can use the Search feature of this site (just enter the word DOUBLE) to find many, many similar questions about how these novelty "coins" are made.

it's probably worth a few bucks at most. Two-headed quarters are often sold in magic and gag gift shops.

See the Related Links for more info about these coins.

This is NOT something that was done at the Mint. It's a privately made novelty item, known as a Magician's Coin, created by altering two normal coins and joining the pieces back together. Use a magnifier to check just inside the rim on one side of the coin -- you are looking for the seam where the two pieces were joined -- it could be on either side of the coin. They cost about $7-8 new from novelty shops and sell for $2-3 on eBay. They have no value to coin collectors, however, because they are privately made by damaging genuine coins. You can hold onto it for magic tricks and making bets.... but be prepared to run fast if you use it for a bet.

More

Many years ago the Mint had all coin presses redesigned so that dies are "keyed". That is, obverse dies only fit into the obverse anvil and reverse dies fit into the reverse anvil. It's physically impossible for two same-side dies to be put into a press. While many errors including "mule" coins (half one denomination, half another) can still occur, double-headed coins are not and cannot number among those mistakes. See the related Web Links for more info.

Dan Moore The Working Man's Rare Coins

Answer More info :

Its amazing how many of these are turning up on this board. Follow the links to the previous questions. Yours is just like all the others. You can use the Search feature of this site to find many, many similar questions about how these novelty "coins" are made.

Any U.S. half dollars dated 1971 and found in circulation are only worth 50 cents. They're made of copper-nickel like dimes and quarters, not silver, and have no special value.

Circulation Kennedy halves have been struck at Philadelphia and Denver. Philadelphia halves only started to use the P mint mark in 1980, so a 1974 50¢ without a mint mark is perfectly normal. Denver halves dated 1968 and later have a small D between the date and the bottom of JFK's portrait.

A dealer would probably charge $1-2 for one in uncirculated condition.

If it's a proof coin with an S mint mark and in its original package, $2-3.

ALL U.S. coins carry these mottos so they really don't helping to ID a specific coin.

The 1923 Peace Dollar is the second most common date of this coin, It contains 0.7734 troy ounces (about 25 gm) of silver, giving it a "melt value" of about $22 as of March 2011.

Look on the back of the coin to see if there's a small mint mark letter below the word ONE and just above the tip of the wing. It may be blank or there may be a D or S. (The intertwined A and F on the front of the coin are the designer's monogram and not a mint mark.)

Numismedia lists the following approximate retail values as of 03/2011:

No mint mark (Philadelphia):

Very worn condition - $24

Moderately worn - $25

Slightly worn - $25

Almost no wear - $26

Uncirculated - $30 to $4,620 depending on quality

"D" mint mark (Denver):

Very worn - $24

Moderately worn - $25

Slightly worn - $25

Almost no wear - $28

Uncirculated - $48 to $5,160

"S" mint mark (San Francisco):

Very worn - $24

Moderately worn - $25

Slightly worn - $25

Almost no wear - $27

Uncirculated - $31 to $4,500

See a reputable coin dealer for the value of a higher Uncirculated grade, as the value could vary fairly dramatically based on small differences in condition.

"TRVST" is NOT a misspelling. The coin used a Roman theme in its design and the artist decided to employ the Roman alphabet for its lettering. Latin only had 24 letters; V served as the modern consonant AND the vowel that we now represent as "U". You had to figure out which was which based on its context. In this case it represents a vowel.

Almost all US coins carry the motto E Pluribus Unum ("From many, one') so that's not a distinguishing piece of information.

"AF" on the front of the coin is not a mint mark; it's the monogram of the coin's designer Anthony Di Francisci.

DISCLAIMER: The retail values quoted are the best available as of the date shown, but may vary significantly due to changes in the precious metals market. Also the wholesale (buying) price of a coin will be less than the selling (retail) price. A reputable coin dealer will be able to give a more accurate valuation based on inspection of the coin.

There is no such thing as an 1803 U.S. nickel.

You have a Lewis & Clark commemorative nickel that was minted in 2004. Turn it over and look next to Jefferson's portrait.

These are worth exactly 5 cents.
there's no such thing as a 1803 nickel the date of when the nickel is made is on the front next to Jefferson's portrait and also the us mint did not start making nickels until 1866

1898 isn't a rare date for Morgan dollars in circulated condition. Look on the back of the coin to see if there's a small mint mark letter above the DO in DOLLAR. It may be blank or there may be an O or S.

Numismedia lists the following approximate retail values as of 08/2010:

No mint mark (Philadelphia):

Very worn condition - $17

Moderately worn - $19

Slightly worn - $21

Almost no wear - $23

Uncirculated - $34 to $6,310 depending on quality

"O" mint mark (New Orleans):

Very worn - $17

Moderately worn - $19

Slightly worn - $21

Almost no wear - $23

Uncirculated - $34 to $30,630

"S" mint mark (San Francisco):

Very worn - $17

Moderately worn - $23

Slightly worn - $32

Almost no wear - $96

Uncirculated - $230 to $29,380

DISCLAIMER: The values quoted are the best available, but may vary due to market fluctuations. Also the wholesale (buying) price of a coin will be less than the selling (retail) price. A reputable coin dealer will be able to give a more accurate valuation based on inspection of the coin.

Look on the back of the coin to see if there's a small mint mark letter above the DO in DOLLAR. It may be blank or there may be a CC, O or S. (The M on the front of the coin is the designer's monogram and not a mint mark.)

Numismedia lists the following approximate retail values as of 05/2011:

No mint mark (Philadelphia):

Very worn condition - $36

Moderately worn - $39

Slightly worn - $40

Almost no wear - $42

Uncirculated - $49 to $15,630 depending on quality

"CC" mint mark (Carson City):

Very worn - $305

Moderately worn - $449

Slightly worn - $483

Almost no wear - $549

Uncirculated - $610 to $40,630

"O" mint mark (New Orleans):

Very worn - $36

Moderately worn - $39

Slightly worn - $40

Almost no wear - $42

Uncirculated - $49 to $6,880

"S" mint mark (San Francisco):

Very worn - $38

Moderately worn - $40

Slightly worn - $40

Almost no wear - $118

Uncirculated - $192 to $31,250

DISCLAIMER: The retail values quoted are the best available as of the date shown, but may vary significantly due to changes in the precious metals market. Also the wholesale (buying) price of a coin will be less than the selling (retail) price. A reputable coin dealer will be able to give a more accurate valuation based on inspection of the coin.

The motto E Pluribus Unum (Latin for "Out of Many, One") is on ALL $1 coins minted since 1878 so that's not specific enough to ID any one coin.

Silver Eagles

Silver eagles are bullion coins minted since 1986 for sale to collectors but not for spending. Morgan dollars were made for use in ordinary circulation just like dimes and quarters.

Uncirculated coins from 1979, 1980 and 1999 are worth about $1.25 -- if you can find a buyer. Uncirculated coins from 1981 are worth about $3.00 each. That year none were produced for circulation and all were sold to dealers and collectors.

Proof coins from 1979, 1980, and 1981 in original government packaging are worth about $4.00 each. Proof coins from 1999 are worth about $25.00 There are rare proof varieties (Clear S Mintmark) from 1979 & 1981 that are valuable -- $85 for a 1979 and $175 for a 1981.

View the related link below to view a price table of every Susan B. Anthony dollar.
The coins are still in circulation today, so only a Proof or Uncirculated coin will have a premium.
It depends on the type.

Most Susan B. Anthony dollars unless they are in a mint or proof set still in mint packaging are only worth $1. They have next to no collector demand because they are, in the eyes of most collectors, a hideous abomination to look at, were widely hoarded by the public and were minted in large quantities.

There are 2 varieties for the 1979-P coins with the wide rim variety being worth a premium ($20 or so in mint state) and the narrow rim variety being common ($1)

But, chances are, your coin is worth just $1.
A Susan B. Anthony dollar is worth exactly one dollar.
$1 to $7500 depending upon the mint mark, variety and condition of the coin.

Right now it is worth about $25 just for the silver it contains. If it shows any significant wear, that's about all you can get for it, but in the highest grades it can be worth several hundred if it has no mint mark or a 'D' mint mark and possibly $2500 or more with an 'S' mintmark.

If you have a large (38 mm) silver dollar, 1922 is the most common date for Peace Dollars. The mint mark in on the tail side below the word ONE. The number of coins minted for your coin year is 51,737,000. PLEASE do not polish it. This will reduce the value greatly.

The value of a 1922 Peace Dollar is based upon the fact of the "Relief", which is the extent to which the image on the coin is raised above the background.

A Normal relief coin (the most common variety) will be priced between $17.00 and $175.00 according to wear. A mint state or proof coin can bring as much as $60,000.00.

A high relief coin that shows little wear will appraise at $2,500.00 while a near perfect condition specimen will be at $50,000.00-$75,000.00. Remember that this is for a "High Relief" Peace Dollar.

Check the related link below called "Price Guide" to see the current value.

If you have a small gold dollar, it is a commemorative Grant Memorial Dollar. There are varieties with and without a star over Grant's name which makes a difference in the price for some grades. Even if it shows a bit of wear, it is listed at $1500. $1800 if uncirculated, and if certified as MS-65. In MS-67, with the star it lists at $5500 and without it at $8000.

In God We Trvst

Many people wonder about the "Trvst" spelling on the motto.

TRVST is the normal spelling for all Peace Dollars (as well as other coins from that time period). It is NOT an error.

The use of V for U was an affectation of the time period, when designers were very fond of old Roman styles. The Latin alphabet did not have a separate letter for U; V served as a consonant, vowel, AND a number (!) You had to tell the uses apart by context. The say was true for the letter I, which also served as the consonant that we call J. The letters U and J were not commonly used until the Middle Ages.

July 25, 2009

600 million were minted -- they will never be rare. They still show up in circulation, especially from change machines. Circulated, they have no extra value except as shown below, when found in extremely fine condition.

The 1979 Susan B. Anthony dollar coin was produced at 3 US Mint facilities; Philadelphia, Denver and San Francisco. The mint marks for this coin are located on the obverse [heads] side of the coin just above the right shoulder. The letter "D" indicates the coin was minted at Denver. A letter "S" indicates the coin was minted at San Francisco. The letter "P" indicates the coin was minted at Philadelphia. The 1979 Anthony dollar was the first coin to bear the mint mark "P" for the Philadelphia mint since 1945. Note that "FG" is not a mint mark, but the monogram of Frank Gasparro who designed the coin.

Circulated Grades............1979-P.............1979-D............1979-S

EF40...................................$4.....................$3...................$3

Uncirculated Grades

MS63....................................$15.................$12...................$12

MS64....................................$25.................$15...................$15

MS65....................................$35.................$22...................$20

MS66....................................$60.................$75...................$45

1979 was the first and highest mintage year. The value of this coin is slightly more than the face value, perhaps $1.05 face value, but it varies slightly.

$1. Susan B Anthony coins are not rare and are not made of any precious metals.

Likely face value only, just very high grade uncirculated and proof coins have more than face values, none of the coins were struck in silver regardless of mintmarks or date. There is a variety of the 1979-P issue SBA coin referred to as a Wide Rim or Near Date type that does have more than face value, most people can't tell the difference so take it to a coin dealer, you may get lucky.

1.00
$1 Unless it is in absolutely perfect condition.

They were never popular and have very little value with collectors. Plus, you could probably pick up a bunch from the bank for $1 each pretty easily.

1936 Wheat Penny: With no mint mark, in very good condition is worth $0.10, uncirculated is worth $5.00, proof is worth $135.00. With D mint mark, in very good condition is worth $0.10, uncirculated is worth $8.00. With S mint mark, in very good condition is worth $0.10, uncirculated is worth $8.00.

Values updated as of 12/2009:

Look under the date to see if there's a mint mark letter. Approximate retail values are:

No mint mark (Philadelphia):

10 to 75 cents for a circulated coin, $1.25 to $31 uncirculated

D (Denver mint):

10 cents to $1 for a circulated coin, $4.50 to $35 uncirculated

S (San Francisco mint):

12 cents to $1.75 for a circulated coin, $4.50 to $27 uncirculated

This is NOT something that was done at the Mint. It's a privately made novelty item, known as a Magician's Coin, created by altering two normal coins and joining the pieces back together. Use a magnifier to check just inside the rim on one side of the coin -- you are looking for the seam where the two pieces were joined -- it could be on either side of the coin.

They cost about $7-8 new from novelty shops and sell for $2-3 on eBay. They have no value to coin collectors, however, because they are privately made by damaging genuine coins.

The only possible good news is that if you have an older magician's half dollar made before 1965, it would have enough silver in it that you could probably sell it to a scrap dealer for around $5 or $6.

The other thing you could do is hold onto it for magic tricks and making bets.... but be prepared to run fast if you use it for a bet.

Many years ago the Mint had all coin presses redesigned so that dies are "keyed". That is, obverse dies only fit into the obverse anvil and reverse dies fit into the reverse anvil. It's physically impossible for two same-side dies to be put into a press. While many errors including "mule" coins (half one denomination, half another) can still occur, double-headed coins are not and cannot number among those mistakes.

See the related Web Links for more info.

Dan Moore The Working Man's Rare Coins http:/www.workingmancoins.com

More info :

Its amazing how many of these are turning up on this board. Follow the links to the previous questions. Yours is just like all the others.

You have a manually altered novelty item, known as a Magician's Coin, made by altering two normal coins and gluing the pieces back together, that sells regularly for a couple dollars.

Use a magnifier and examine just inside the raised rim on both sides of the coin, looking for a seam where the pieces are joined, that can be on either side of the coin.

1964 is the most common year for silver half dollars. Even in uncirculated condition (unless it is an absolutely flawless gem), its value is based only on the silver it contains, about 0.36 times the current price of silver. Unfortunately, it is so common and so widely saved it is worth very little more as a collectible, so many have been melted or are being traded as bullion coins.

You can't get very much more for uncirculated ones unless they are certified MS-66 or higher.

* For 2011, the silver value of the coin was between $11 and $13 USD.

*Please see the link below

By 1971 the price of silver had gone up so much that the composition was again changed to the same copper-nickel clad metal used for dimes and quarters. That means any circulation-issue half dollar dated 1971 or later is only worth 50 cents, so there's no reason to hang onto one of those if you get it in change.

Look on the back of the coin to see if there's a small mint mark letter above the DO in DOLLAR. It may be blank or there may be a CC, O or S. (The M on the front of the coin is the designer's monogram and not a mint mark.)

Numismedia lists the following approximate retail values as of 01/2013:

No mint mark (Philadelphia):

Very worn condition - $33

Moderately worn - $39

Slightly worn - $40

Almost no wear - $42

Uncirculated - $50 to $34,380 depending on quality

"CC" mint mark (Carson City):

Very worn - $506

Moderately worn - $900

Slightly worn - $1,310

Almost no wear - $8,424

Uncirculated - $22,810 to $937,500

"O" mint mark (New Orleans):

Very worn - $33

Moderately worn - $39

Slightly worn - $40

Almost no wear - $50

Uncirculated - $130 to $20,000

"S" mint mark (San Francisco):

Very worn - $36

Moderately worn - $52

Slightly worn - $60

Almost no wear - $110

Uncirculated - $192 to $29,380

DISCLAIMER: The retail values quoted are the best available as of the date shown, but may vary significantly due to changes in the precious metals market. Also the wholesale (buying) price of a coin will be less than the selling (retail) price. A reputable coin dealer will be able to give a more accurate valuation based on inspection of the coin.

FAQ's about Morgan dollars

E Pluribus Unum

The motto E Pluribus Unum (Latin for "Out of Many, One") is on ALL $1 coins minted since 1878 so that's not specific enough to ID any one coin.

Silver Eagles

Silver eagles are bullion coins minted since 1986 for sale to collectors but not for spending. Morgan dollars were made for use in ordinary circulation just like dimes and quarters.

If you are hoping to improve their numismatic value, cleaning of any kind reduces the value of a coin.

So in some short words, the answer is NO, STOP, DON'T. The best way is not to do so at all. Other than brushing off surface dirt with a very soft brush, or rinsing with distilled water and patting until thoroughly dry, the cleaning of coins (if done at all) should be left to professionals.

Done incorrectly, cleaning a coin can drastically reduce its value. If the coin is very badly crudded up but valuable enough to make it worth the investment, e.g. you found it in an archaeological dig, there are professional cleaning technicians who have the tools and knowledge to restore the coin. Such techniques were used to remove 150 years of ocean calcification from the S.S. Pacific hoard, for example.

If it has any possible value as a collectible, the best advice is DON'T clean it. Any abrasive cleaner, no matter how mild, will cause tiny scratches in the surface which will decrease its value to a collector dramatically. Chemical cleaners will alter the surface and give the coin an un-natural look. Some household cleaners will make a coin shiny-new looking when first cleaned but after a few months or years they look worse than before.

However, any surface dirt SHOULD be removed before storing the coin in an airtight holder for preservation. Do this by letting it soak in soap (not detergent) and distilled water. Detergents and tap water usually contain contaminates that may react with the coin. Then use an artist's camel-hair brush to gently sweep away any loosened dirt and let the coin air dry on a soft cloth. If any additional cleaning is required, it should be done by an experienced professional conservator. In fact, most collectors and dealers will pay far less for a coin that's been cleaned than for one that's in its original condition, even if it's dirty. Think of what happens on Antiques Roadshow where someone proudly shows off the cleaning job they did on an old table. Then one of the Keno brothers tells them that they HAD a $20,000 antique, but their "fixing" with turpentine or whatever took its value down to $1,500....

Here is the best solution: DO NOT USE COIN CLEANERS LIKE BRASSO, TARNX, ETC!!!!!!!!Don't use any abrasive substance, or try to clean it by rubbing, scratching, or scraping! If you soak your coins, use distilled water, and you can add a bit of soap. however, the soap solution can damage proof coins or and upper-grade coins with copper in it. For coins that won't be damaged, rinse them thoroughly and air dry. Another solution is to soak a coin in olive oil for several months. The oil will eventually dissolve the crust. However, badly corroded coins have permanent damage inside. The same goes for ancient coins with patina on it. Acetone is usable, but use it in a well ventilated area. You can also use vinegar and let it soak. That will also clean it.

As for Proof coins and Uncirculated coins, don't try to clean them. Get a replacement, or keep it as it is.

Facts from Coin Collecting 101 (Alan Herbert) "If there is any possibility that these coins have any numismatic value, cleaning them will just reduce that value to the amount of silver they contain. They may look good when first cleaned (if you don't use a magnifier), but almost any coin that has been cleaned will look worse in a few years than it looked before the cleaning. Drying with a paper towel will leave hundreds of tiny scratches, destroying the natural surface."

A Different Answer:

Most of the answers given so far concern themselves with any potential damge that may be done to the surface of the coin. Pristine uncirculated coins, proof coins and the such may suffer somewhat from improper cleaning methods, however, a tarnished silver or copper coin has already been damged even before you clean it. Tarnish is corrosion and even on silver it will leave tiny pits in the surface of the metal. The heavier the tarnish, the worse the pitting. This is why when an older coin is cleaned with chemicals the original luster never returns. So by cleaning a coin you probably do a little damage depending upon how you do it but in the end you are simply exposing the damage the tarnish/corrosion has already done. I don't know why so many collectors do not realize a tarnished coin is , in fact, damaged by the tarnish and thus should be worth less than the untarnished coin.