The hot water valve should always be open, so the hot water can exit the heater into the system. If your actually meaning opening the drain valve on the bottom of theater, the water in the heater will drain, starting with the hot water stored there, and then the cold water that is entering the tank to replace it will simplt flow out the bottom before being heated. Dpending on where the heater is located will denepnd on how much of a mess the ensuing flood will be.
It partly depends upon what sort of heater it is, but if it's a car heater, the valve alters the amount of hot water (from the car's cooling system) entering the heater matrix. This would also be true of a water-filled central heating system.
Check that there isn't water around the water heater first, which would mean that turning it off and closing the water valve would be a good idea. Then, check the fuse box to see if the power has tripped--that is if it is an electric water heater.
It is already available.
You would need to specify the size of the heater
You can have a tempering valve installed. A tempering valve cuts the hot water to a maximum temperature you set. It's usually used to allow a small water heater to serve a higher demand than it was intended to. Normally, you would crank the water heater up very high, and let the tempering valve cut it with cold water to bring it down to where you want it, maximizing the capacity of the water heater. It would work great for your situation too. == ==
There is no shut off valve. But you can by pass the heater core by disconnecting the 2 hoses going to the heater core. And connecting them together. The only problem with this is that you won't have any heat in the winter.
This could be numerous factors, however, the most likely of factors would be either the TP valve leaking or the hot water heater irtself is leaking (burst).
If its an electric water heater normally around the elements, Gas at a weld or relief valve.
If the water is dripping, I would replace it just to be safe. It doesn't cost much money.
Hose blockage, core blockage, disconnected heat valve.
I had a W126 Benz (1981 280SE) on which the heater would not turn off on one side of the car (it has separate heaters for each side). The problem turned out to be a broken solenoid valve in the heater water supply. The way the heater works is: With the ignition off the heater valve springs open. When the ignition is turned on the heater valve automatically closes. When you then turn on the heater controls the valve opens again. I think the idea is that the heater valve gets "cycled" every time the car is used so that it doesn't get sticky. The electric solenoid that does the closing is easy to find by following the water pipes and will probably be on the firewall somewhere. They are supposed to be a throwaway part but I got mine open and soldered up the broken wire and all was good.
Did you check the coolant level. There is a range where you will loose heat but yet not overheat the engine. If that is okay, then start by making sure that the thermostat is okay. If it is stuck open during cooler temps, it is possible to get nearly cold air. Many cars (I'm sure yours included) have a water valve located in the heater hose usually not too far from the firewall. The valve are known to fail by either the valve sticking, or the rubber in the valve swelling and completely blocking water passage. It is not very likely for the heater core to become so badly blocked as to get only cold air, but if that were the case you could tell by feeling hoses going to the heater core. One would be hot and the other would be cold. This would also be the case if the valve is not allowing water passage.