I usually use the thickest wax ring I can find with the plastic funnel thing embedded in it. If it's a little too thick, the extra wax will just squeeze out a bit underneath the toilet. Sometimes its necessary to double up on the ring (use two - one with the funnel one without) to make a good seal on a flange after installing a thick (tile) floor in a bathroom which I kind of assume is your issue.
If the closet collar is even with the top of the finished floor, no amount of wax will stop the water from coming out. It may not happen right away, but it sure will. One way to fix this problem is to attempt to raise the closet collar so that it will rest on top of the finished floor. Another way is to buy a closet collar extension. Either way the toilet will be held to the floor and the wax ring should then seal tight.
It depends... The advice above is good however if you have one of the newer "Super Toilets" such as the Toto Drake or Am Std Champion the outlet hole on these are enlarged and you should not use the wax rings that come with the plastic horn. The plastic horn will actually get pinched by the larger outlet and be squeezed into an oval shape that will actually cause clogs.
Another option is not to use wax seal at all. I have encountered many problems using wax seal ,it does not last long and it does not look nice. My option would be to use white, Prattley Putty standard setting. It seals water tight, goes very hard in 2 hours, easy to apply and it gives off a white, smooth very appealing finish.(Its Plumbers Cement)
*If you are attaching to a plastic Floor Flange, you would use a Kant Leak(which has the plastic hub installed with the wax seal) and use a hacksaw to cut a regular wax seal in half,still leaving it like a round donut. You put the Kant Leak on the flange, then mold the wax seal half on top of the Kant Leak. The 1/2 wax seal should be formed so when you put the toilet down it does not push into the center and down the drain. If you are putting the toilet onto a Cast Iron or Lead flange with a brass ring, DO NOT use the Kant Leak. Use one and 1/2 wax seals and do the same as I stated previously.
If the toilet flange is flush with the floor you are probably fine and would not need to use an extension kit to raise the flange. As long as your flange is in good condition and firmly secured to the floor below it you should be ok.
Yes, it is necessary for the toilet flange to be flush with the floor for proper installation.
Yes, the toilet flange should be flush with the floor when installing a toilet to ensure a proper and secure fit.
To properly install a new toilet flange, first remove the old flange and clean the area. Place the new flange over the drain pipe and secure it with screws. Make sure it is level and flush with the floor. Finally, connect the toilet to the flange using a wax ring and bolts, then secure the toilet in place.
I would get the extra thick one. You should have to push down on the toilet to make the wax ring seal. If the toilet sits on the floor by itself, stack 2 rings on top of each other.
To install a toilet flange on top of tile, first ensure the tile is clean and level. Use a wax ring to create a seal between the flange and the toilet drain. Place the flange over the drain and secure it to the floor with screws. Make sure it is level and flush with the tile surface. Finally, attach the toilet to the flange using bolts and nuts.
When a toilet rocks like a rocking chair, leaks water around the floor connection or displays other signs of insecure foundation, the toilet flange needs replaced or reset. A toilet flange is the metal plate located below the toilet which connects the toilet with the sewer outlet pipe while securing the toilet with the floor. When a toilet is initially constructed it is secured to the floor with screws and the junction is sealed with a liberal application of beeswax. When a toilet is securely fastened and maintained properly, proper function including no water leakage or odor present is the norm and not the exception. An indication of possible need of attention is the presence of black mold on the floor near the base of the toilet. Also evidence of water leakage or an unpleasant odor originating from the toilet base is a reliable indicator of the need for a toilet flange repair. Regardless of who does the repair of a toilet flange, the following criterion is paramount for a job well done. It is also important to follow certain procedures, from diagnosis to completion of the job. Tools and materials: screws, screw driver, flange bolts, wax rings, caulk and a flange repair kit. Remove the Toilet: After shutting the water supply to the toilet, flush the toilet water from the tank and bowl before releasing the toilet from its floor connection. Unscrew the bolts and nuts on the sides of the toilet base. Secure the bowl and tank and lift the toilet from the floor connection. Repair the Toilet Flange: Old wax must be cleaned off from the old flange. Flange bolts may need replaced due to corrosion from water leakage. Position the flange bolts in the holes of the repair kit and place it on the floor as the previous flange setup. This step ensures proper placement of the flange and prevent leakage. Fix the Flange and Toilet: Follow manual instructions of the original toilet manufacturer when screwing the flange to the floor. Place wax rings and remount the toilet with bolts and nuts.
The flange is there mainly to anchor the toilet to the floor. There is a replacement or repair ring available to fix this kind of problem. They are either brass or steel. Cut the rest of the ABS flange off flush with the floor and install the new ring by screwing it down to the floor with either concrete plugs and screws or there are screws available that will screw directly into the concrete. Make sure the new ring is in the right place so that the slots for the toilet anchor bolts are on the sides of the hole.
The bend in the pipe can be ignored as long as the drain is even at the floor. The pipe can be coming out of the floor at an angle and it will still work. Cut the pip flush with the floor and use a metal floor flange screwed down to the floor. The flange and the pipe do not need to be joined together, the wax ring will make the connection.
To change a toilet, first turn off the water supply and flush the toilet to empty the tank. Disconnect the water supply line and unscrew the bolts holding the toilet to the floor. Lift the toilet off the floor and remove any remaining wax seal. Place a new wax seal on the flange and lower the new toilet onto it. Secure the toilet to the floor with new bolts and reconnect the water supply line. Finally, turn the water supply back on and test the toilet for leaks.
To properly install a toilet flange on tile, first ensure the tile surface is clean and level. Place the flange over the drain hole and mark the screw holes on the tile. Drill pilot holes for the screws, then secure the flange to the tile using screws. Make sure the flange is level and flush with the tile surface. Finally, connect the toilet to the flange using a wax ring for a secure seal.
To properly install a toilet flange on tile, first ensure the tile surface is clean and level. Place the flange over the drain hole and mark the screw holes on the tile. Drill pilot holes for the screws, then secure the flange to the tile using screws. Make sure the flange is level and flush with the tile surface. Finally, connect the toilet to the flange using a wax ring for a proper seal.
Installing a new toilet flange is a fairly simple process that should take no more than 15 to 20 minutes. A properly installed toilet flange will ensure years of dependable use. If the old flange needs to be removed, this will increase the installation time. These instructions assume you are starting with a waste pipe that does not have a toilet flanged installed. If the old toilet flange is still installed on the waste pipe, begin by removing it, then following these procedures.The following items are needed to complete this procedure:New toilet flangeAdjustable wrenchScrewdriver (Phillips or straight head)Hacksaw (if modification to waste pipe is needed)Purple primer and solvent cement (if PVC flange is installed)New wax seal or waxless toilet sealPlace the new flange on the waste pipe and ensure the pipe height is proper for the flange to be affixed to the subfloor. If modifications need to be made to the waste pipe, use a hacksaw to cut the pipe to the proper height.Ensure the new flange is sitting level to the floor. The flange must sit level and flush to the floor for the toilet to properly seal to the new flange.Install the new flange on the waste pipe with the bolts positioned so they will fit into the toilet mounts. If a PVC flange is used, apply purple primer to the outside of the waste pipe and solvent cement to the inside of the flange, then press the flange firmly on the waste pipe. Be aware, once these item are attach using primer and solvent, they cannot be removed or adjusted. Be sure the flange is positioned and inserted properly on the waste pipe.Secure the new flange to the subfloor by screwing the flange directly into the floor.Apply the new wax seal to the flange or affix a new waxless toilet seal directly to the underside of the toilet.A waxless seal is commonly overlooked by consumers. Ask your retailer about a waxless seal. Waxless seals are cleaner to install and uninstall and can be reused even if the toilet is removed later.Mount the toilet back onto the new flange and secure it using a washer and nut on the flange bolts. Tighten each bolt with an adjustable wrench. Be very careful not to over tighten the bolts. If the bolts are over tightened, the porcelain toilet will crack.Your new toilet flange is installed and ready to use.