Waves are mechanical energy that has been transferred mostly from wind. The factors that determine the size of an ocean wave made by the wind are: time of contact, velocity of wind and the fetch-distance over which wind is in contact with water.
wavelength and wind
How long and strongly the wind blows. I know that for a fact. Trust me.
The most familiar kind of surface wave is an ocean wave, which is caused by the wind transferring energy to the water's surface. These waves can vary greatly in size and strength, depending on factors such as wind speed and duration.
the wind speed,wind duration and the distance the wave is traveling
Mainly the strenght of the wind passing over the water. Also the fetch, or distance that a wave has to develope. Finally, the beach profile will also effect the size and how the wave breaks.
The ocean...
An ocean wave is a disturbance on the surface of the ocean caused by energy transfer from wind. As the wind blows across the ocean, it creates ripples that develop into waves. The energy from the wind is transferred to the water, causing it to move in a circular motion, creating the characteristic rolling motion of waves.
The depth of water affects wave size. As waves come toward land from the ocean, they are underwater. As the water (and wave) hit the bottom of the ocean approaching land, the wave is pushed up and becomes a very noticable event on the water surface. The more the water depth decreases, the farther the wave is pushed up - that's where those big surfer's waves come from.
The waves in the open ocean are usually caused by the friction of the winds over the open ocean of water. The waves in the ocean vary in strength and size depending with the speed of wind and the friction with the surface of water.
The waves in the open ocean are usually caused by the friction of the winds over the open ocean of water. The waves in the ocean vary in strength and size depending with the speed of wind and the friction with the surface of water.
The size of a wind-driven wave can vary widely depending on factors such as wind speed, duration, and fetch (distance over which wind blows). Wind-driven waves typically range from a few centimeters to several meters in height.