You left out the most important parts of the riddle. The way the question
is worded, all you have to do is turn one switch on, walk over to where the
fan and the bulbs are, see which one is on, mark the switch, and do that
two times.
The way the riddle works: The switches are on the ground floor of the house,
and the bulbs and the fan are on the 3rd floor. Now, how do you figure out
which switch controls what, without climbing the stairs more than once ?
-- Stand by the switches. Turn 2 of them ON. Wait 15 minutes.
Then turn one of the 2 OFF, and turn the 3rd one ON.
Then run upstairs and see what you have there.
-- Whatever is OFF ... either the fan or 1 bulb ... belongs to the switch that's OFF.
Now you only have to associate the 2 remaining switches with the 2 remaining items.
-- If 2 bulbs are ON, then they belong to the 2 switches that are ON.
One bulb is cool, and the other one is warm.
-- If only 1 bulb is ON, then it's either cool or warm.
-- A warm bulb that's ON belongs to a switch that was ON for 15 minutes
before you ran upstairs.
-- A cool bulb that's ON belongs to the switch that you turned ON
just before you ran upstairs.
You have identified all 3 switches with only one trip up the stairs.
it's bulb 3
If a switch is added, all of the bulbs/lights/motors can be turned on and off at the same time, instead of needing several switches. Also, if a bulb is dead, you can't tell what bulb is dead because they are all connected.
Halogen bulbs flicker on a dimmer because dimmer switches are designed for use with incandescent bulbs, not halogen bulbs. The electrical properties of halogen bulbs, such as their lower resistance when dimmed, can cause flickering when used with dimmer switches not specifically designed for them. Upgrading to a dimmer switch that is compatible with halogen bulbs can help eliminate the flickering.
If a switch is added, all of the bulbs/lights/motors can be turned on and off at the same time, instead of needing several switches. Also, if a bulb is dead, you can't tell what bulb is dead because they are all connected.
Yes, it is recommended to use a special dimmer switch that is compatible with CFL bulbs. Regular dimmer switches may not work effectively with CFL bulbs and can cause flickering or buzzing noises. Look for a dimmer switch that is specifically labeled as compatible with CFL bulbs.
The bulb that will glow first when 3 bulbs are connected in series and the switch is connected after 1 bulb is the second bulb in the series. The current flows through all the bulbs in a series circuit, but the second bulb experiences the full potential difference first as it is connected directly to the source.
To do something like that you would first have to have each light on it's own smart switch. Then you would need a master switch that would control each of the other smart switches. You can find switches like this at www.smarthome.com
The number of poles refers to how may separate signals or if you will, wires you switch when the switch is activated or deactivated. For example your typical light switch just switches the hot wire and turns the light on or off and is called a SPST switch. The SPDT switches a signal to either of two circuits. So for example, if you had hot connected to the input and a light connected to each output (Throw), you would have one light on and one off and each time you throw the switch the lights switch which is off and which is on. The DPDT can switch two separate signals at the same time and each goes to one of two separate circuits. If you had two separate breakers and four light bulbs you could hook up one breaker hot to one pole and the other breaker to the second pole. If you had four light bulbs each connected to each of two switch outputs, then one bulb from each breaker would be on and when switched the other bulb on each breaker would be on. For diagrams just search for SPDT and DPDT.
Turn switch A on and then wait for a couple minutes. Turn switch A off and switch B on. Go to the attic, one light bulb should be on, that's switch B. Now feel the light bulbs, one should still be warm from having been turned on and then off, that's switch A. The one that's off and cool is switch C.
How did you want to switch on the bulbs? If there isn't a separate circuit already running from the switch, through the wall, and to the chandelier, then you'd have buy pull chain switches. The chandelier would have to have holes drilled to mount the switches. The load wire from the house would be wired to the load side of each switch. Then two bulbs to one switch and three bulbs to the other switch. All the neutrals would tie together to the neutral from the house. I would HIGHLY recommend just purchasing a dimmer switch from your local hardware or home center. You could easily change the switch in the wall to a dimmer switch and have a lot more control over the illumination, and it wouldn't look like you have burned out light bulbs in your fixture. You can rewire a 5-bulb light for a 3-2 switch in a couple of other ways. Remove the light from the ceiling, open the lamp wiring and divide the selected 3 and 3-light sets. All of the neutral wires stay together (usually wired to the screw shell of the lamp holders). Add a 3-way switch in the fixture (e.g., off, 3-on, 5-on, or off, 2-on, 5-on) or bring each group of 3 and 2 hot wires out to separate wall switches. Switch 1 is 2 bulbs, switch 2 is the other 3 bulbs, and switch 1 and 2 together is all 5 bulbs. Or you can put all or some of them on dimmers.
A short to ground in the positive side of the headlight circuit. Most likely by a failed headlight switch. Ford is notorious for faulty healdight switches.
To dim lights effectively in your home, you can use dimmer switches or dimmable light bulbs. Dimmer switches allow you to adjust the brightness of the lights, while dimmable bulbs can be controlled using a compatible dimmer switch. Make sure to check that your light fixtures and bulbs are compatible with dimming before making any changes.