For a 1/2 inch rope, a prusik cord with a diameter of 6mm to 7mm is recommended for a secure and efficient grip.
#16 <<>> To load an extension cord to 1725 watts depending on the length of the cord, the bare minimum should be #14. A better size cord and my recommendation would be a #12 wire size extension cord.
Maybe. Technically identical to rope in most cases except its size. String, twine, cord, and yarn are typically made by laying up multiple strands to produce a "rope". However, although its construction is typically identical to rope, its small size keeps it properly referred to as cordage, string, twine, etc.
The wire size is large enough to carry the load current and that the cord is properly voltage rated.
the wire size should be appropriate for the maximum current the device will draw to prevent overheating or voltage drop. It is important to follow electrical code and safety guidelines when selecting a wire size for a line cord. Consider factors such as voltage, current, and length of the cord when choosing the appropriate wire size.
It might...But be sure to use a lot of rope. Even if it doesn't fit the rope should at least hold it down
In Canada this is quite acceptable. One extension cord can be plugged into another extension cord. What has to be kept in mind though, is the load amperage at the end of the cords. Additionally plugging one cord into another increases the wire's total resistance. This effects the over all voltage drop of the cord, by lowering the voltage at the load. If the cord's wire size is increase in each additional cord added to the length, this would be one way to combat against the voltage drop. An example, if the first cord has a #14 size conductor the next size cord to plug into it should be a #12. If additional length is needed then the next size cord to extend the length should be a #10.This type of cord use is used on construction sites all the time. Keep in mind that extension cords are only to be used as a temporary source of power in temporary locations and they not to be used as a permanent installation power source.
Here a quick and easy way to make your own suspension trainer. If you want the benefits of a TRX without the crazy price tag, this is a great alternative for a fraction of the price. Making the Grips Slide the handle bar grips on to each side of the PVC and cut them off accordingly. Make the PVC the same length as the grips. Make sure to get the PVC size that fits the inner grip diameter the best. It should be a snug fit. Cut the 6mm accessory cord in half and burn the ends to prevent fraying. Feed one end of one 6mm cord through the inner PVC grip. Tie the cord in a double fisherman's knot. This is creating your handle. Repeat for the other handle trying to keep the tails of the knots the same length to ensure that the loops are the same. Feed the fisherman's knot into the handle so that it is hidden and out of the way. Now you should be left with two handles that have 6mm accessory cord run through them like a loop, as well as one long piece of thicker rope. Forming the Anchor Take the webbing and tie a water knot in it. Putting it All Together Find a secure anchor point like a thick tree branch or a steel beam. If need be, wrap the webbing loop around an anchor point and clip the carabiner to it. Note: You can also girth hitch it and leave out the carabiner but this can cause wear and weakening of the system. Take the 1/2" rope and fold it in half. Clip the rope into the carabiner. Wrap the handle loops around the 1/2" rope using a prusik knot. It is crucial to make sure the knot is tight. Weight it securely prior to using it. Repeat for the other side. Adjust. Simply loosen the prusik a bit and slide it up or down. Make sure that the knot is proper and tight before using it again. Tips If you're using the same anchor all the time, then just cut the mainline rope according to the height so you don't have really long tails. if you want the foot loops you can take webbing and feed it through the foot loops tying a water knot in it.
no. the size of a pully makes little difference to its action on a rope as the only thing changing is how much of the rope is in contact with the pully and since the pully rotates it makes it no easier or harder to pull the rope.
Yes, but with a heavier gauge wire <<>> If the cord on an electric heater needs to be lengthened as a perminant feature then the whole cord should be replaced with a new cord of the same type and wire size. What this prevents is aquiring bad splice connections at the point the connection is made. Bad splice connections will create hot spots in the cable. If the lengthening of the cord is just a temporary fix, just use an extension cord. The extension cord should be the same wire size as the heater cord. Keep the extension cord under 20 feet in length.
Yes the rated voltage is a maximum. A 250 v cord might be slightly thicker than one for 125 v. <<>> The voltage rating of an electrical extension cord is the insulation factor of the cord. These cords come in two insulation ratings, 300 volts and 600 volts. If the voltage rating is within the parameters of the cord maximums then it is safe to use it on that voltage. The amperage of the cord is based on the wire size of the cord's conductor. The rating of 10 amps will fall within the #14 cord size. Remember the longer the cord the larger the wire size should be to prevent voltage drop at the connected load end.
Ya
The best extension cord is a short one so that voltage drop does not occur. The cord should be able to reach the supply receptacle and be just long enough to reach the car. Do not use a 50 foot cord and roll it up if the vehicle is just 10 feet away. This cord should have a wire size so that is can handle the load of the block heater. A #12 AWG extension cord will handle a 200 watt block heater very nicely.