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The 18MP resolution in digital cameras is significant because it determines the level of detail and clarity in the photos taken. A higher resolution like 18MP means the camera can capture more pixels, resulting in sharper and more detailed images. This is important for professional photographers or anyone who wants high-quality photos.
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What are the differences between an 18MP and a 24MP camera in terms of image quality and resolution?
An 18MP camera captures images with a resolution of 18 million pixels, while a 24MP camera captures images with a resolution of 24 million pixels. The 24MP camera will generally produce higher quality and more detailed images compared to the 18MP camera, especially when zooming in or printing larger photos.
I want to open up a portrait/photography studio.?
The best camera for indoor photos is the Canon Rebel EOS 18MP. It costs about one thousand dolalrs.
How many pixels is the Sony Cybershot camera?
A sony cybershot digital camera is rather expensive for the average photographer (amateur). It will run you anywhere between $200 and $600. It is more of a camera for semi-professional photographers.
What is a really good DSLR camera that has high resolution and good image quality?
The Canon "D" line is always popular, from the 550D to 650D having: -18 mega pixel sensor Provides great picture quality. also video quality below: - Full HD (1920/1080) at 25/30fps - 720p 60/30/25 fps
What is the advantage of digital cameras over film cameras?
These days everyone seems to have a digital camera. Is it really better than film? Digital cameras have many benefits over film:No expensive film to buy and develop.Preview your pictures instantly; delete at your leisure.Upload pictures quickly to your computer for viewing.Manipulate and fix pictures using photo manipulation software installed on your computer. No need to visit a photo lab or consult a professional.Higher resolution on some cameras, which allows for higher quality images.Ability to print pictures from your computer. No need to visit a lab for printing or development.Yeah, and nobody gets to see the sleezy pictures you take with your girlfriend!Devils Advocate...No expensive film to buy and develop. -> Replace that with very expensive inks, expensive paper, photo inkjet, software, batteries and spare batteries, and a camera that costs 2 to 3 times as much as a comparable film camera, and one that will be obsolete within a year. Film "expensive"? Prices have dropped substantially to a couple bucks, or less, a roll for 35mm.Preview your pictures instantly; delete at your leisure. -> Yes, advantage digital. However, you don't get a negative. Ever have a hard-drive crash, or a CDR become unreadable? It's not a matter of "if" it's a matter of when. Make sure you make multiple back-ups of your memories (and don't lose them, and label your CDRs...) Otherwise, rots-a-ruk. See those three years and hundreds/thousands of photos. Wave bye-byes.Upload pictures quickly to your computer for viewing. -> You can scan film with a cheap scanner or get a photo CD from a lab and do the same thing.Manipulate and fix pictures using photo manipulation software installed on your computer. No need to visit a photo lab or consult a professional. - "Consult a professional"? Huh? If you don't own a printer, or computer, or don't want to spend hours learning digital editing software you will still be making trips to the photo lab to make your digital prints. And isn't it nice to just drop off your film, wait a couple days, and have everything ready, already printed without sitting in from of a PC, fooling with software, or wrestling with a printer, and watching your expensive ink get used up?Higher resolution on some cameras, - That's just flat out false. A 35mm camera has the equivalent resolution of a 20 megapixel digital camera. The "some" cameras you must be talking about are digital 20 megapixel medium format "backs" used by pros that cost $10,000. Most consumer digital cameras - even DSLRs, have 3,4,5,6 megapixels. Less than half the resolution. That's why ONLY film can be used for big enlargements.- which allows for higher quality images. Sometimes yes, sometimes no. All digitals have great difficulty with bright conditions and have a much lower latitude than film. It is very easy to over-expose, and you will get washed out or "blown out" highlights. They also have a lower dynamic range, and - excluding expensive DSLRs, have a wide depth of field - everything in sharp focus. Not something you /always/ want, expecially with portraits. With the digicams most consumers use, you're limited to iso 200 speed, othewise you get unacceptable digital noise (far more distracting than grain) but I /always/ use 400 speed film and not think about it.Ability to print pictures from your computer. No need to visit a lab for printing or development.- Again, that's not all it's cracked up to be. Inkjet printers are notoriously finiky. Hard drives containing /all/ your pictures may crash. Photo-editing software can cost hundreds of dollars, ink prices are outrageous, and photos use /a lot/ of ink. Good injet paper is also pricey.I started using a digital camera, used it for a year, went back to film... Film is also more fun imo, and my film SLR is 15 years old. No need to charge batteries or carry spares, or for it to "boot up". It's ready to go as soon as I pick it up.Will you still have that expensive digital camera in 15 years? Our will you have purchased 2,3,4 in that amout of time?Digital is good for pros who shoot thousands of pics a week, where film costs DO become an issue. It's also good for camera companies, since like computers used to be, they're obsolete the minute you buy them.Besides, film is just more fun...How digital is better? It is worse in every aspect! 1. First of all film is much more fun. 2. Quality of 35mm film is better than some $10.000 digital. 3. Film is MUCH CHEAPER to shoot and to develop: SnapFish.com develop whole role for $3. The whole role of slide film to developed and mounted $4 with Fuji mailer.. 4. Film lasts for as long as we need and digital requires backup and how doing you know it will be readable in let say 10 years? Can you read the 8 inch diskettes now? 5. Film make you better photographer and offers HUGE variety of different films to try and to experiment: any ISO is available. 6. Film is getting better every year, but not your digital camera sensor is growing. 7. With 35mm I have a REAL WIDE ANGLE shots. 8. I don't have to keep half of pocket of batteries with me. 9. The camera from some $150 will do better than digital of $2000. 10. I can have the real high quality slide show, not that crappy and dull multimedia projection. 11. After all I can have my slides and negatives be scanned and have a "digital" if you whish. 12. I have the whole bunch of photos after vacation developed by the same SnapFish, scanned and put on CD for less than half of your ink jet paper cost.AND AGAIN FILM IS FUN, ENDLESS FUN. Photography it is about imagination it is not what you can see in the LCD.Agree with everything in the last two posts. Film is just more fun, and it's less expensive. I like to experiment with different lenses and different types of films. The $100 SLR I bought a decade ago, still going strong. Tried digital, it's "okay"... imo, more hype than anything. Okay if you want to post pics on a web. Get a cheap one.Disadvantages of digital point and shoot:1. Limited to 200 iso. 400 iso downright ugly due to noise. Grain is not as obtrusive.2. Wide angle lenses! Love'em. Forget it with digital. 35mm best you can do without expensive, ridiculous teleconverters and "the widest" you'll get is 24mm, with a huge, heavy WCON on Raynox teleconverter hanging off your camera. I can get a 19mm, 20mm, 21mm fixed wide angles that are small.3. Price/Quality. The average price for these things is $400 to $500 for a camera that is obsolete at purchase, with a fixed lens.4. EVF or LCD screen... bleh. Hard to see, wash out in bright light, go dark in not so low light. Keep'em.Why spend this kind of dough, for a fixed lens camera that limits you to iso 200, when you can get a good new SLR with a prime lens for $150, that simply takes better pics.If you want a digital, get a cheap $100 Kodak for quick snaps to post on the web. Don't worry about megapixels. Even the cheapest has suffient for okay snap-shots.DSLRs Good cameras, can't argue with that. But a DSLR kit will set you back $800 min. for just a body. Lenses are outrageous. Figure on parting with $1500 min for a body and a couple lenses.- Battery eaters - "Start-up" time - Dirt on CCD nightmare - VERY expensive - Just not as much fun - Blown out highlights - Moire patterns - Durability - Fragile --- extreme temp damage --- moisture (don't get caught in the rain or humid contitions) --- static electricity --- overall build qualityDigitals require expensive software, printers, inks, and papers to make prints, and good luck with that storage media. Years from now, will it work when you want it to? Will it still be used? Can you find it?Digitals produce "high resolution digital images". They don't look like film. That's why films are still shot with film on film cameras, even though it's less expensive to shoot on digital and transfer to film. Even TV dramas are still shot on film.The only thing the "so called" digital revolution did was sold a lot of crappy overpriced cameras to people. Due to planned obsolence, people are buying expensive new cameras with more megapixels every couple years. Whereas, a film camera will last decades. The only people who benefited from the "digital revolution" were consumer electronics companies and commercial photographers, who spend tens of thousands of dollars on film and processing a month. For the average shooter or hobbiest, the -'s of digital outweigh the plusses.Digital. This is progress? No thanks, I'll stick with film.9-07-2006I'll use digital from now on probably. If only for one's personal use and looking at, why take all the time? If you have time, and someone is buying your work, or you are having it shown in a gallery, film is nice. I have been using digital now for several months, and now I have grown so old that I now get a kick out of just looking at the 2.5 inch LCD on the back of my camera!! Film or Digital, I LOVE PHOTOGRAPHY!One thing I didn't see mentioned is that film will degrade over time, unless kept in pristine conditions. Digital media will not. You can reprint your pictures with the same quality as the first time. Try that with film. Now given, if you are the photographic equivalent of an audiophile, go with the film by all means. But if you are just a novice photographer like myself who might like 10 of the 96 pictures you snapped, go with the digital.A novice photographer doesn't have the experience or authority to judge this. I hope you have your files backed up.My grandmother can use a digital camera, but that doesn't make her a photographer. Digital cameras make for lazy photographers. You don't have to take the time to get the lighting or the shot exactly right because you can just take it to Photoshop later and alter it.They aren't.They are different and neither one is better than the other.Digital makes for lazy photographers is BS. Lazy photographers make for lazy photographers. On a good dSLR you can have complete manual control, but most professional (make their living with it) photographers stick with Aperture priority (Av) or Shutter Priority (TV) .. this is the same from 30 years ago: look at the auto film cameras fom 70's on, they were set like this. No pro I've ever met use 'auto' for most of their pictures, they knew what settings worked for the environment and used them. Auto (your complaint) is meant for grandma, not artist Suzie or photo-journalist Bob.Any work done by pros on photographs (NOT images) is meant only to correct what they camera can't show, not to produce new graphics. If you can't take the picture in-camera, you're not a photographer.The newer dSLRs are as good or better in a lot of cases than a 35mm SLR: 5-18MP, ISO that's good to 800, even 1000 with light grain, batteries that last 1500 to 2000 images, and better capture software arrives ever day.Film is good for enlarging: 10MP or more 3/4 sensor sized images are a minimum for poster sized enlargements, 20MP and full size sensors are needed for 4 foot and bigger prints. How many people do that?I still take pictures with film. In fact I prefer film over digital but the wait for results is less important with my landscapes than my people pictures, so I often use digital. My camera bag has 2 Nikon dSLRS, a point and shoot Canon (goes everywhere the Nikons can't go), 2 auto 35mms (Canon and Nikon), 2 manual 35mms (Canon and Nikon): The autos are for sharing with others, the digitals are for when I'm taking lots of pictures or I have a real weird environment, but for permanent and professional looks it's the manual 35s. The lenses are better, the consistency is better and they work in any condition (blazing hot, freezing cold, wet, snow, hail, dirty or... well whatever!)Want to learn how to make photographs? Get an old 35mm film camera and practice, practice, practice. Photoshop can't fix bad photography; if you didn't catch the subject in focus and focus was on another subject, nothing in PS can fix that. That's why some people still make 100's of thousands of dollars as photographers; they can do what photoshop can't.There are so many things involved here. The main question asked by the respondents should be: what are you using the camera for?If you want pics to look at on your computer monitor (eBay, kijiji, pics for facebook) use any digital camera, a monitor only resolves at around 75 dpi anyway.If you want to produce art and print it on paper at poster size or greater use film, especially if you want it in black and white.I have been doing this for over 30 years and I use both digital and film, it depends upon the requirements of the job.Decide what you want to use the camera for and buy accordingly.- - - - -I always love the "higher resolution" comment about digital cameras. Let's play.A popular digital camera has 12 megapixels. (There are a bunch of these out there.) That will give you a file approximately 4000 pixels wide x 3000 pixels high.If you take your pictures to a photofinisher to have them printed, their machine runs at 300 dpi...so for the highest quality out of this file, the biggest picture you can print is 10 x 13.Now, a 10 x 13 is a nice size picture, but you look over there and see "Poster Size Prints Available Here" on a sign. And they have 24 x 36 prints available. You will need a file that's 7200 x 10800 pixels, or 74 megapixels, if you want to print that at 300 dpi. An $18,000 Better Light back for your view camera can do that, but most people would rather spend $18,000 on a new car than on a part for a camera. (You have to supply a view camera separately and they are expensive.) On the other hand, you can buy a $350 Plustek film scanner and crank out files this big from 35mm negs all day long.And this is the most important thing to realize about digital camera files: they can never get any larger without damaging them. If you take a picture on a 12 megapixel camera, and a year later buy an 18 megapixel or a 22 megapixel camera, all the work you shot on your 12 megapixel camera will remain 12 megapixels. If you enlarge them in Photoshop, they get ugly quick. If I scan a negative this week and need it larger next week, I just need to put it back in a scanner and make it larger.
Rebel Camera?
Canon has announced to launch a new camera namely, Canon EOS Rebel T3i which features 3-inch vari-angle LCD, an APS-C-sized 18MP CMOS sensor, DIGIC 4 Imaging Processor, and many more. The upcoming device can capture 1920 x 1080 pixel full resolution HD video at 24p, 25p, or 30p and has 63-zone dual-layer metering system. The new device stores photos in SD, SDHC or SDXC memory cards and can record up to 34 consecutive still JPEG images or up to 11 consecutive raw images at speed up to 3.7 frames per second.
What is the best camera for outdoor photography?
I use a Canon 5D with the 24-105 lens and the results are most gratifying.JimAnswerIf you're an amateur, a point and shoot camera (like Olympus D-550) is best. Just put it on Auto or P[rogram mode]and fire away. Better if it's digital with plenty of memories, since you don't have to buy films. Just shoot and shoot and delete those that you don 't want. And if you want to tinker with the picture later, load the free version of Photoshop (element) and start from there.If you're an advance novice who don't want to carry a lot of equipment and need an outside flash, a compact camera, like Olympus SP-350, is a good choice. It's no bigger than your hand. Don't forget to bring tripod.Best time to shoot outdoors (landscape) is just before sunrise or just after sunset when lighting is more diffused. Use directional flash if you want some fill lighting.If you want to shoot at landmarks that have been shot-to-death (like; Eiffel tower, Lincoln memorial, etc,}, you'll get more dramatic effect if you shoot them when no one else would dare shoot them, like after a storm, at night, or overcast weather. Of course these requires technique and tripod.Hint; look at the photos in National Geographic magazine and try to study the techniques of the Pros.AnswerDigital cameras are very different than using film cameras, but both have auto settings. If you are a pro, then this question is irrelevant, but for amateurs, then good name-brand point and shoots are what you need.Tony
How many photos will 8gb hold on a 18mp camera?
Kinda depends, generally in my experience the size of a jpeg high res image directly from, say a canon t2i, is between 5.5 and 11mb, some as much as 16mb. An estimate therefore would be approximately 2979, 1489, and 1024 pics respectively. This however is only an estimate as each picture has different information which takes up more or less space than the previous picture even on the same device. Aditionally, it's unlikely that you would be using or keeping pictures in raw, but if you are, expect considerably less than that, on average canon raw files are around twice the size and generally save jpeg as well for menu images. So it would put that average number at around 750 or so pics, but most likely less.
What weapons were used in World War 2?
WWII saw the introduction of many major war systems. Among these to consider:Tanks - Used lightly in WWI but a major part of every important army in WWII. Innovations during the war were outstanding in armament, control systems, radius of operation, reliability. Radio communication added enormously to their effectiveness. Germany and Russia had the best tanks.Aircraft - Again, used to some extent in WWI, but became, in some theatres, the major weapon in WWII. Used extensively to expanded seapower in particular. Long range and heavier payload bombers became used for the first time. Transport aircraft were improved to the point that major armies could be supplied and were on various occassions, entirely by air armadas. The German JU series planes were probably the most versatile of the war and of course, German jets were cutting edge (only the Brits had anything remotely comparable). The USA had the finest bomber fleet by far.Aircraft Carriers - Tinkered with in WWI, they became indispensible in the long distances involved in the Pacific war. They were also important in the Atlantic sea battles in that they 'closed the gap' in air cover mid-ocean. Technically the Japanese carriers were probably a little better than the American. For example the Japanese had steel decks whereas the Americans used wood in many ACs to reduce cost and to reduce top heaviness.Submarines - Had been around for over 100 years by WWII, but true, long range, long time submersible ships were first used in WWII. Without question Germany had the finest technology in this area.Atomic weapons - The only weapon I can think of that was entirely new. The USA with significant British help (and not a little from German and other European refugee scientists) developed this weapon.Radar - Not a 'weapon' exactly but was a major new system that not just pointed out air craft approaching, but aided weapons guidance systems. Germany and Britain were cutting edge in this area.Small arms and artillery had a few innovations - higher muzzle velocity (note the German '88' and similar weapons), better steel, larger calibres, better explosives.Rockets - Again, had been around for centuries but became much more sophisticated in WWII. Germany had the finest by a wide margin. The V2 was not surpassed for a decade following the war and was the basic concept that launched both the Soviet and American space programs in the late 1950s.Cruise missiles - Germany had developed television by the mid 30s. Matching this technology to V1 type jet aircraft gave them cruise missiles. Not widely used, they were very effective on an occassion or two in the Mediterranean around Italy. No other country had any weapon similar.AutomobilesDifferent variety of guns and riflesU-boatsDestroyersCruisersConvoysRadarGrenadesFlamethrowersChemical gasSwords and knivesV1 and V2 misslesCannonsMinesAtomic bombsGermany invented: Jet fighterAssault Riflemodern submarinesuper heavy tankmedium range ICBM (V2)remote control tankJapan invented:modern torpedosubmarine aircraft carriersuper battleshipItaly:scuba assault teamsUK:earthquake bombRADARUS:atom bombsemi-automatic rifleUSSR:flying tankThere were many weapons of World War One.HandgunsM1870 GasserRast-Gasser M1898Roth-Steyr M1907Steyr Mannlicher M1894Steyr Mannlicher M1901Steyr M1912RiflesSteyr-Mannlicher M1895Mannlicher-SchönauerMachine GunsSalvator-Dormus M1893Schwazlose MG M.07/12Skoda M1909 machine gunFlamethrowersFlammenwerfer M.16.Kingdom of BelgiumHandgunsFN Browning M1903FN Browning M1910RiflesMauser Model 89Machine GunsHotchkiss M1914Lewis GunHandgunsWebley RevolverWebley Self-Loading .455" Mark I (Royal Navy, since 1911, and later Royal Horse Artillery and Royal Flying Corps)M1911 .455 (Royal Flying Corps and Royal Navy, Limited use)RiflesLee-EnfieldLee-MetfordPattern 1914 EnfieldRoss rifleWinchester Model 1894 (Royal Flying Corps, Limited use)Machine GunsVickers machine gunMaxim gunLewis GunHotchkiss Mark IGrenadesGrenade, No 1 HalesRifle grenades, 2, 3, 4 HalesNo.s 5, 23, 36 MillsNo. 6 GrenadeNo.s 8, 9 Double Cylinder Jam TinNo. 13 BattyeNo. 15 Ball grenadeNo. 27 Smoke GrenadeNo. 34 Egg grenadeEmpire of JapanHandgunsType 26 RevolverRiflesType 30 rifleType 38 RifleType 44 Cavalry RifleSwordskyu guntōFrench RepublicHandgunsModèle 1892 revolverRuby pistolRiflesLebel Model 1886 rifleBerthier M1907-15 and M1916Meunier rifleMachine GunsSt. Étienne Mle 1907Hotchkiss M1909 Benet-Mercie machine gunHotchkiss M1914 machine gunChauchat LMGChauchat-Ribeyrolles 1918 submachine gunGerman EmpireHandgunsM1879 ReichsrevolverLuger P08Mauser C96Beholla pistolRiflesGewehr 88Gewehr 98Machine GunsMaschinengewehr 08Bergmann MG15 nA GunMadsen machine gunMP18Anti-tank RiflesMauser Anti-tank RifleGrenadesModel 24 grenadeFlamethrowersKleinflammenwerferGrossflammenwerferKingdom of GreeceHandgunsNagant M1895RiflesMannlicher-SchönauerKingdom of ItalyHandgunsGlisenti Model 1910RiflesCarcanoMachine GunsBeretta Model 1918lugante republenkKingdom of MontenegroHandgunsGasser RevolverRiflesBerdan RifleOttoman EmpireHandgunsSmith & Wesson Revolver FN Browning M1903mauser C96RiflesMauser Model 93Gewehr 88 sent by Germany at the end of the WarMauser 98 sent by Germany in 1918Portuguese RepublicHandgunsSavage PistolParabellum PistolRiflesMauser-VergueiroLee-EnfieldKropatschekMachine GunsVickers Machine GunLewis GunMaxim-Vickers Gun[edit] Russian EmpireHandgunsNagant M1895Mauser C96Browning M1903P08 ParabellumColt 1911RiflesMosin-NagantType 38 Rifle(Northern front)Lebel 1886(Caucasian front)Fedorov AvtomatBerdan RifleMachine GunsM1910 Maxim GunLewis gunSwordsShashkaUnited States of AmericaHandgunsColt M1911M1917 revolverRiflesM1903 SpringfieldM1917 EnfieldM1918 Browning Automatic RifleMachine GunsM1917 Browning Machine GunChauchat Light Machine GunLewis GunHotchkiss M1909 Benet-Mercie machine gunHotchkiss M1914 machine gunShotgunsWinchester M1897Winchester M1912Germany: Mauser Kar98k rifle; MP40 submachine gun US: Springfield 1903 rifle; Thompson submachine gun Britian: Lee Enfield rifle; Mark 2 Sten submachine gun Russia: Mosin-Nagant rifle; PPSh40 submachine gunBolt-action RiflesWhen World War 2 begun, most soldiers were equipped with bolt-action rifles. A 19th century technology, these rifles were powerful and very accurate weapons, effective to a long range of over half a mile, but since they required manual reloading after each shot, they were never suitable for combat situations which demanded a rapid rate of fire, and were therefore replaced during the war by newer weapons.Sniper RiflesThe only combat role where bolt-action rifles are the best even today, are sniper rifles, where their long effective range and high accuracy are the only things that count. These are bolt-action rifles which are adapted with magnifying telescopic sights, and often also with additional enhancements such as bipods, cushions, and higher standard production, all in order to maximize the sniper's ability to deliver the few selective shots that can sometimes affect the battlefield more than a hail of less accurate bullets.Semi-Automatic RiflesSemi-Automatic Rifles were the natural development from the bolt-action rifle. By simply adding an automatic reloading mechanism, these guns provided the soldier with a significantly faster rate of fire, not just technically, but also because he could keep his aiming eye on the sights and on the target between shots, making continuous aiming and firing possible. These quickly became the basic personal weapons of World War 2 soldiers.Sub Machine GunsA German invention from the end of World War 1, these are the small and handy equivalents of machine guns, capable of a rapid rate of automatic fire, much faster than possible with a rifle, and they were also mechanically very simple and reliable, and also very cheap and easy to produce. Their smaller and lighter ammunition, similar to that of pistols, meant that a soldier could carry many more bullets than a rifleman. While they give each soldier a tremendous firepower, their main disadvantage is their significantly lower range and accuracy, even in single shot mode, which is the combined result of weaker ammunition, shorter distance between the front and rear sights, and simpler and less precise production. These features made sub-machine guns the weapon of choice for short-range combat, elite storm troops, tank crews, and it was also very attractive to armies which needed to urgently mass-produce weapons in the early stage of the war. Most sub machine guns of World War 2 were similar to each other, as they all had the same simple and successful mechanism of the original German MP18 sub machine gun, and wartime improvements were focused on making them even simpler to produce.Assault RiflesThese all-purpose guns were developed and used by the German army in the 2nd half of World War 2 as a result of studies which showed that the ordinary rifle's long range is much longer than needed, since the soldiers almost always fired at enemies closer than half of its effective range. The assault rifle is a balanced compromise between the rifle and the sub-machine gun, having sufficient range and accuracy to be used as a rifle, combined with the rapid-rate automatic firepower of the sub machine gun. Thanks to these combined advantages, assault rifles such as the American M-16 and the Russian AK-47 are the basic weapon of the modern soldier.PistolsPistols are generally not suitable for military fighting. With their very short effective range and little ammunition, they are carried in combat by soldiers who are not expected to use them as their main fighting weapon, such as airmen, senior officers, non-combatant soldiers, and other military roles which for practical reasons, or even traditional reasons, are not carrying a sub-machine gun or a rifle.Light Machine GunsThe machine gun, as its name suggests, mechanized killing in World War 1 with its ability to fire a continuous hail of bullets at the enemy troops, with a very rapid rate of fire and a long range, making it an important element of the military unit's firepower, in addition to the personal weapons. The natural development in World War 2 was the light machine gun, which was light enough to be carried by a single soldier, with another soldier or two carrying additional ammunition, a quick change spare barrel, a tripod, or other parts. These high firepower weapons remain in service today, both carried and mounted.Anti-tank weaponsBlitzkrieg, the devastating German tactic of rapid advancement of large formations of tanks, was so successful in the first years of World War 2 because anti-tank weapons were not very efficient and were not available in large numbers. These were mostly towed direct fire artillery guns. Infantry-carried anti-tank weapons, such as extremely powerful rifles with special armor-piercing bullets, were initially rare, and later became obsolete.Infantry anti-tank weapons began to mature only with the deployment, during the war, of hollow charge warheads, a simple technology in which an explosive device is shaped with a circular V-shaped cavity, resulting in a directional explosion that concentrates most of its energy in one direction, creating a momentary stream of hot gas that hits the target with such tremendous pressure and heat that it pierces through steel and fills the hit tank with a spray of molten steel, killing the crew and setting the tank on fire.The greatest advantage of hollow-charge weapons from the infantry point of view, is that unlike the projectiles fired from guns, which can penetrate armor because of their high velocity, like an arrow does, the hollow charge does it only by its unique explosive effect, regardless of its speed. This enabled the development of simple and effective lightweight anti-tank weapons, which could be easily operated by a single soldier, and it meant that for the first time the infantry had a truly mobile anti-tank weapon they could carry.These weapons usually had a small rocket that launched the weapon from the firing soldier to the target tank. The only disadvantage of these lightweight rocket weapons was their short effective range, due to low accuracy. Only after World War 2 this type of weapon matured with the modern anti-tank guided missile, a small and highly effective anti-tank weapon, second only to the mighty guns of other tanks.Hand GrenadesArtillery has been an important support weapon since ancient times. The explosive hand grenade is the first weapon which provided soldiers with personal artillery they could carry in their pockets, which was as easy to use as throwing a stone, and as lethal as an artillery shell. In the battle of Stalingrad, some Russian units took only grenades and knives to stealthy night raids, not guns. Thanks to their simplicity and low price, grenades are still used by all armies.Light MortarsLike machine guns, light mortars are a unit weapon, its self-carried quick-response artillery, with maximum ranges from several hundred meters to several kilometers, depending on size. Unlike remote heavy artillery support, which was requested and directed by radio instructions, light mortar operators often saw their target and could therefore precisely aim at its direction and make quick aiming corrections, making it more effective.FlamethrowersAnother World War 1 German invention, this powerful but very short ranged weapon provided a simple way to kill the enemy by fire, especially a fortified or dug in enemy which could not be effectively hit by gunfire or grenades. It operated simply by spraying a stream of ignited flammable liquid at the target, and operation was dangerous because it was to a very short range (about 30 meters) and immediately revealed the operator's position to counter fire from remaining enemy forces. This problem was partly solved by the development of flamethrower tanks, which protected the operators, and also carried much bigger and more powerful flamethrowers.Notable World War 2 weaponsM1 Garand - the standard American rifle of the war, in the 1930s it was the first semi-automatic rifle to enter military service. It was an excellent rifle, and in addition to American troops, the Germans used captured Garand rifles, and the Japanese produced a copy of it before the war ended. It remained in service many years after the war, and its post-war sniper rifle variants are still considered top quality, and are widely used by military and police snipers.MP43, later renamed Sturmgewehr 44 (assault rifle 44) - the world's first modern assault rifle, it entered service in the German military in 1943, and was an immediate success, clearly a superior weapon, and was given production priority as all front line units sent urgent demands to get it. Initial users were elite units, but most of the production was sent to eastern front units. It looks much like the famous post-war Russian AK-47 assault rifle, which was most likely developed from it.Colt M1911 - Still in wide service since 1911, this pistol is one of the best ever produced, and the power of its big 0.45" bullets is second to none.Bazooka - this simple rocket-propelled anti-tank weapon was used by American soldiers since 1943. Operated by two man teams, aimer and loader, it could be effectively aimed to a range of less than 100 meters, and could destroy any tank and fortified positions. The Germans copied the Bazooka and used it too.Panzerfaust (tank fist) - this very handy German anti-tank weapon, used since 1943, was even simpler than the American Bazooka because of its simple one-shot launch tube, and had a much more powerful warhead, capable of destroying any tank. The range of the 1st type was just 30 meters, but the following types had ranges of 60 and 100 meters, and types with longer ranges were being tested when the war ended. A simple and powerful weapon, it was widely used in the German defensive fighting in the 2nd half of the war, and forced allied tanks to cooperate with the infantry to eliminate this threat before reaching the Panzerfaust's range.Don't forget bombs and shells and even two nuclear bombs.Guns aircraft ships bombs submarines bullets tommyguns Browning Automatic Rifles machine guns howitzers rifles bunkers tanks armored personal carriers aircraft carriers battleships destroyers minelayers cruisers flamethrowers are just a few.GerBodeo Model 1889Browning Hi-PowerCČZ vz. 27DDreyse M1907EEinstossflammenwerfer 46EMP 44Erma EMP-35FFÉG 37M PistolFG 42Flammenwerfer 35FliegerfaustGGewehr 41Gewehr 43Gewehr 98Glasmine 43Goliath tracked mineHHafthohlladungHIW VSKHorn assault rifleKKampfmesser 42Karabiner 98kKrummlaufLLuger P08 pistolMMAS-38Mauser C96Mauser HScMG 08MG 13MG 15MG 17 machine gunMG 30MG 34MG 42MG 45MG 81 machine gunModel 24 grenadeModel 39 grenadeModel 43 grenadeMP 18MP 3008MP 34MP 40MP35Panzerbüchse 39PanzerfaustPanzerschreckPanzerwurfmineR8.8 cm Raketenwerfer 43S-mineSauer 38HSchiessbecherSteyr M1912StG 44StG 45(M)SturmpistoleTTeller mineTellermine 35Tellermine 42Tellermine 43VVis pistolVolksmaschinengewehr VMG-27VolkspistoleVolkssturmgewehr 1-5Vz. 33WWalther P38Walther PPWimmersperg Spz-krZZB vz. 26ZB vz. 30ZB-53ZH-29You'll need to refer to the related link below for a list of weapons used during the Second World War .water because when you pour it on them they will melt.Pretty much the same thing they've always been used for... killing enemy personnel, destroying fortifications, blasting as a means of excavation, etc.American: Bazooka, Browning Automatic Rifle, M1 Garand, M1 Carbine, Thompson, "Grease" gun, M1911 colt pistol, Springfield Rifle British: Bren, Sten, Lee enfield, Vickers machine gun German: MP 32, MP 40, Gewehr 41, Kar 98k, Luger, MG42, Panzerfaust, Walther P38 Russian: PPsh 41, Mosin Nagant, TT Pistol
