They mean the top of the water
I added a copper-based algecide to our pool. Then 12 hours later, I shocked to pool. Our pool water turned a chocolate brown. What happended was the algecide was copper-based, and the copper reacted with the chlorine in the shock... and turned brown. We had to wait for the chlorine level to significantly drop, then add metal remover. Let the water circulate until clear. Then re-shock to get the chlorine levels up. If you wait to shock the pool too long, your water will then turn blue (ours did!).
To chemically treat a new above ground pool, start by adjusting the pH level to between 7.2 and 7.6 using pH increaser or decreaser. Then, shock the pool with a chlorine shock treatment to kill any bacteria or contaminants. Finally, add a stabilizer to help maintain the chlorine levels in the pool. Regularly test the water and adjust the chemicals as needed to keep the pool balanced and safe for swimming.
i would use algaecide and vaccum and it would coem back after a day or 2 on the surface, i tried brushed and getting it into the mix of the water and algaecide it -samething what i found to work so far is vaccum your floor, back wash the filter and then brush the walls and floor, the water will get cloudy, then add alagecide, then 20 min later add 5 lbs of shock. the water will bubble this is the killing process, run filter 24 hrs and reasses situation. I backwashed again, and checked levels . obviously chloring is still plenty, but i revaccumed, adde dmore algaecide, and ran the filter over night surprisingly the chloring level on the 3rd day was in 40% so the algae ate it. 2 more lbs of shock, and 8 hrs of filter and i can say im in need of a ultra brte, water clarify only i need to pump 8 hrs a day at least 5 times a week, and add algaecide every 5-7 days and ill be ok
I assume that you understand that 'salt' alone will do nothing for your pool and that you require the Saline System equipment. Salt is added initially andthereafter only top up salt is required (maybe a couple of 50 pound bags per year, on average). A saline pool requires everything that any other pool requires, with ONE EXCEPTION. The saline system will produce the sanitizer, so you do not need to add any sanitizing/oxidizing chemicals such as 'pool chlorine', algaecide or 'shock' chemicals. Everything else is the same and must be maintained as per normal pool care recommendations (pH, alkalinity, conditioner, calcium hardness etc). A salt water pool converts the salt in the pool electronically to produce chlorine gas which is then dissolved into the water, so aside from making sure the salt content in the pool is OK the treatment is about the same. Except you don't have to put chlorine in
The BEST way to ensure the water in your pool stays healthy and algae-free while you are away for extended periods, is to install a Saline System. That will keep your pool water chlorinated and crystal clear the whole time, automatically, regardless of how long you are away. An alternative is to get a Pool Service to check on the pool at least weekly while you are away. If you want to do it yourself, make sure the pH is correct, then shock the pool (with regular chlorine, or shock). This will work only for as long as the chlorine lasts in the water. Whatever you do, you must ensure that the water level is topped up periodically. If you do not have an automatic-fill device on the pool, you will have to arrange for someone to stop by and top up the water level from time to time.
More water on TOP of you.
This pool can hold up to about 15,148 gallons of water. (this would fill the pool to the very top).
If you have a deck level pool or spa (water level with the top of the pool, that usually overflows into a grating around the pool) when people get into the pool their body displaces water, this water is stored in the Balance tank until the people get out and the water is pumped out of the balance tank and back into the pool. A skimmer pool that has a lower water level than the top of the pool does not need a balance tank as the displacement is handled by the water level rising. Deck level pools and spas are considered more aesthetically pleasing.
Whatever type of chlorine you use (liquid, tablets, granular) you must add sufficient, on a regular basis, to maintain a residual of 'free-and-available' chlorine in the water at all times. You measure this with a normal pool test kit. You only need to shock the pool if there are 'combined-chlorine' present (this you also determine with a normal pool test kit). Shock chemicals will have doseage instructions on the container. -residual' in the pool (1-2ppm is common). A salt (saline) system will produce the sanitizer you require, automatically, from a mild level of ordinary salt dissolved in the pool water - so you will not need to add chlorine, shock or algaecide. Shock your pool when your pool needs it, not because it's Saturday. Test for chloramines by using a Taylor DPD test kit. If the chloramines are above .6, then shock. Keep your tab feeder or floater full at all times, especially in the Summer. Never put tabs in the skimmer.
Where is the drain located? If it is on the wall near the top then you can keep the water in the pool. If it is near the bottom then you may have to drain the pool.
This pool holds up to 13,460 gallons of water. (this would fill it to the very top)