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Water Balance means keeping four fundamentals in equilibrium: pH, Total Alkalinity, Total Hardness and Oxidizer. Maintaining balance isn't as hard as it seems
pH.
pH is important as it controls the speed and nature of chemical reactions in a solution. A low pH makes chlorine more effective, but burns it off faster. A high pH slows the chlorine reaction rate, so it lasts longer.
The ideal range: Between 7.2 to 7.4.
The ideal range: Between 7.2 to 7.4.
Frequency: To be checked: every 7 days.
Low Ph: Can result in corroded metals, etched and stained plaster, eye/skin irritation, rapid chlorine loss and total alkalinity destruction.
How to correct: Add soda ash to raise the pH, but this also has a secondary affect as it raises the Total Alkalinity. It is best to adjust the chemistry with small doses of chemicals at a time.
High pH: Can result in cloudy water, scale formation, eye/skin irritation, poor chlorine efficiency and chloramine formation.
How to correct: When the pH is high then the Total Alkalinity is usually also high. To lower the pH, add muriatic acid.
If you previously oxidized with liquid chlorine, you may have experienced problems with pH bounce. This is a reaction caused when chlorine is added due to the high pH level. The pH level rises and then acid has to be added to neutralize the increase. this reaction does not occur, as the minerals in the system are pH neutral and do not effect pH levels. This cuts down on time and chemical cost spent balancing the chemistry roller coaster.
TA (Total Alkalinity)
TA is a measurement of the water's ability to neutralize acid. Properly balanced TA acts as a buffer to limit abrupt and significant changes in the pool's pH.
The ideal range: Between 80 and 140 ppm.
Frequency: To be checked: every 30 days.
Low TA: Can result in staining and etching of plaster, metal corrosion and pH bounce.
How to correct: To raise the TA add bi-carbonate.
High TA: Can result in cloudy water, scaling, fouled filter and heater elements and continual acid demand to keep pH in the ideal range.
How to correct: To lower TA add muriatic acid.
TH (Total Hardness)
TH is the amount of calcium and magnesium dissolved in water.
The ideal range: Between 175 and 400 ppm.
Frequency: To be checked: every 30 days
Low TH: Can result in metal corrosion and etching of the pool plaster.
How to correct: To increase TH is easy: add hardness increaser.
High TH: Can result in hard rough discolored deposits on pool surfaces and equipment called scale, cloudy water, and mineral deposits.
How to correct: To decrease TH partially drain the pool water and add fresh water with a low calcium hardness level or use a water softener or use a sequestering agent.
Oxidizer (Chlorine)
Sac Pool recommends a chlorine feeder or floater with tablets that feeds out residuals of chlorine, thereby continuously keeping a low residual that is easier to maintain. Chlorine levels below 1.0 ppm are almost undetectable in water and are below EPA drinking water standards. This will give you a healthy swimming environment.
The ideal range: Between 0.5 to 1.0 ppm.
Frequency: To be checked: every 7 days
Low Cl: Can result in cloudy water and algae growth
How to correct: Increase weekly tabs in feeder and shock with Dichlor granular
High Cl: Can result in eye, skin and respiratory irritation.
How to correct: Reduce chlorine applications until the level lowers to the desired range.
TDS (Total Dissolved Solids)
This is the total sum of all matter that is in solution in the pool water.
The ideal range: Between 200 and 1500 ppm.
Frequency: To be checked once per month.
Low TDS: Good, clean fresh water
How to correct: None necessary
High TDS: Can result in scale build up. Above 2000 ppm pool chemistry management and algae control become very difficult.
How to correct: Deceasing TDS is more difficult. You must completely replace the pool water. This should be done every 4-5 years to avoid excessive build up.
CYN (Cyanuric Acid) Conditioner/Stabilizer
The temporary bonding action protects the chlorine from sunlight radiation breakdown. By maintaining the correct levels you can make your chlorine last 4 times longer.
The ideal range: Between 20 and 90 ppm.
Frequency: To be checked once every 3 months.
Low Cyn: Can result in difficulty maintaining a chlorine residual.
How to correct: Add conditioner to the desired range.
High Cyn: Can result in the chlorine not working effectively.
How to correct: Partially drain pool and replace with fresh water.
The Conventional Chlorine System:
One problem with liquid chlorine is that it raises pH levels. As the pH rises, a common problem with most pools, chlorine becomes almost totally ineffective. When the pH is 8.0 chlorine is only 22% effective and at 8.5 only 8% effective. pH level % active chlorine % inactive chlorine 7.0 75 25 7.5 48 52 8.0 22 78 8.5 8 92
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