The bluing is a good thing. The purpose of cleaning your rifle is basically to protect the bluing, which in tern protects your rifle.
Basically, you use something like "Break Free CLP - Clean, Lubricate and Protect.", which is what I use. Its an oil. You wet a small rag with the oil and rub it on the barrel, until you are satisfied that it is clean and protected. This will leave a thin protective coat of the oil on the bluing to protect it from the air, moisture, etc. But inside the barrel, you do not leave a coat for protection. Don't make that mistake.
However if you are storing your rifle for a long period of time (months or years )and want to protect it, then there are greases that you would use for inside the barrel, which you would have to clean out before shooting.
And another thing: DON'T touch the bluing, the barrel, or any other metal parts of your rifle, with your hands/skin. Your sweat is corrosive, will leave "rust-prints". Wipe it down with an oiled rag when you are done with your rifle.
happy shooting!
I recently bought a long rifle in fair to good condition -about 60% of bluing, good stock (sanded heavily), bent bolt- for $200.00.
Good collector's rifle value $70 - $150 USD in 2012. No major damage to wood stock and most bluing on metal intact.
soft clean cloth
Mrs. Stewart's Bluing was created in 1883.
Go to the Henry website, and download the owner's manual for your rifle.
No.
your winchester model 1894 pre-64 rifle is valued at between 500-600 dollars for a rifle in the condition that you describe.
You haven't left enough information for an accurate answer. Does the rifle have a serial number? What condition is the gun in? This would include things like the bluing (finish), and is there any rust or pitting in the metal. What shape is the wood in?
Do you not have an owner's manual? Have you tried an internet search on "rifle cleaning procedures"?
I think you mean re-blue the barrel. "Birchwood Casey" makes gun bluing products. You can even do touch-up or complete bluing. I suggest you remove the stock then use a "bluing and rust remover." Afterwards I used a very light Steel-wool (#0000) and then wiped it down and got all the steel fuzz of the rifle. Wear plastic gloves you don't want to get skin oil on the barrel or bluing on your hands. (it stinks) I wiped it down with a damp cloth, when it was dry I made sure it was a clean as possible. I used an air hose to blow everything off the barrel. Then I took a very soft cloth and applied the bluing. It will take several coats. But it turns blue all of a sudden as you are applying it. It gets darker as you apply additional coats. I used a small paint brush to make sure I got it into all the creases and joints. I suggest you practice on a piece of metal first to get the Idea. You can purchase everything you need at Cabelas, Basspro, Big 5 or any firearms dealer. Birchwood Casey also makes products to redo your stock. see the link below.
Bluing, as it relates to firearms or metal in general, is a permanent surface treatment under ideal conditions. Poorly maintained bluing will fade or flake off. Bluing is a "form of rust", an oxide layer on the outside of the metal. You can remove it using various abrasives, but yes it is permanent.
The value of the1896 Krag-Jorgensen rifle is dependent on it's condition. Sound wood Clear cartouches % of bluing Markings and serial number Matching serial numbers on receiver and bolt All original parts unaltered If the rifle is in Excellent condition and looks new, it could be worth as much as $5,000. If it is a little shop worn with only half of its original bluing its worth would be closer to $700. DLH Custom Gunsmithing dlhcg.com