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What else can I help you with?
What is the diet of a eathworm?
omnivore
Is an eathworm a vertebrate?
An earthworm is an invertebrate as it doesn't have an internal skeleton or a spine.
What is the phylum name for an eathworm?
Earthworms are part of the Phylum Annelida.
How does a eathworm regenorate a new tail?
The cells of a worm divide into two, then those cells divide into two, and so on and on and on.
Is eathworm an amphibian?
No By definition an earth-worm lives in the earth. So is not an amphibian which lives in/on both earth and water.
How does an eathworm benefit other living things?
Besides being fish bait, an earthworm aerates the soil when it makes its tunnels. This in turn aids in growth of grass, etc. and helps the food chain progress.
What is the difference between earthworm and snail in tubular form?
The difference is that snails have a shell that is attached to their body and use it for shelter and protection against predators! While worms are just long and slimy and they live mostly under the soil! Snails adapt to the environment very differently to worms!
What invertebrate group does the eathworm belong in?
Earthworms belong to the phylum Annelida (ringworms). Note that these are not the only kind of worms; two other phyla are Platyhelminthes (flatworms) and Nematoda (roundworms), and they're all very different from each other. For comparison, another phylum-phylum difference is that between either of the worms and Chordata, being all vertebrates!
How do you kill earthworms humanely?
Are battalions of bugs harvesting your house, feasting on your fabrics or gobbling your garden? When left alone, ants, aphids, termites and other bothersome bugs can wreak havoc. So here is the question: How do you get the bugs out--and keep them out? Generally speaking, opt for the least toxic method that will solve the problem. Considering that the more effective and powerful insecticides can be dangerous and their long-term effects to our bodies and environment are unknown, prudent avoidance is the best policy. Also, most chemical pesticides wipe out the good, the bad and the ugly bugs, which may ultimately cause some types of infestation problems to worsen. Here are a few helpful steps you can take: Caulk and seal. Your first line of defense against bugs in your house should be to block access routes. Armed with a caulking gun, seal up cracks and crannies where bugs might enter, including openings around pipes and heating ducts. Also weather-strip doors and windows. Fix and clean. Eliminate areas that encourage or foster termites and other insects, especially damp areas or places where drainage is poor. Repair any rotted wood. Be sure no parts of your house are in direct contact with the ground. Clean up and clear out areas that provide safe harbor for insects. Store food, liquids and garbage in sealed containers. Look for problems. Early detection can be half the battle. Most insects increase their numbers very quickly; obviously, getting them before they multiply lessens the needed actions and potential damage. If you suspect that termites or other house-eating bugs may be present in you home, don't wait for the problem to get worse. Though some termites take years to damage a house, others notably Formosan termites can devour tremendous amounts of wood in a matter of months. Professional inspection. With termites, your best bet is to call a pest inspector. Detecting the location and extent of termites and other bugs within the structure of a house is something of an art. Inspectors use a combination of probing, tapping, listening, and looking. Some may use fiber optic scopes that can peer inside a wall. Some even use dogs that can sniff out the presence of termites inside walls. After finding insect infestation, a good inspector will recommend one or more options for eradicating the bugs, and discuss the pros and cons of each. If you've caught the problem early, the solution may be relatively simple and inexpensive. Boric acid, a powder that's relatively safe to use indoors, will treat small, localized infestations of ants, silverfish, firebrats, fleas and cockroaches. Be sure to follow the label directions precisely. Chlorpyrifos, a chemical pesticide that's available in powdered (as well as liquid) form, will kill carpenter ants, powderpost beetles, carpet beetles and a variety of other insects listed on the label. A strong spray from a hose may be enough to dislodge aphids, whiteflies, mites or other plant-sucking insects. Insect soap spray, commercially-available, penetrates the waxy covering on many plant-sucking insects, suffocating them or attacking their nervous systems. Make your own by mixing 3 to 6 tablespoons of dishwashing soap with 1 gallon of water, but test for damage on part of a plant. Organic pesticides are necessary for killing stubborn infestations of plant-sucking insects or heartier plant chewers such as beetles or caterpillars. Deadly to bugs but considered safe for humans, these are not quite as effective or long-lasting as chemical pesticides; but they're safer to use. They generally must be re-applied every 7 to 10 days. Most of these are plant extracts deadly to bugs. The category includes pyrethrum, rotenone, sabadilla, BT (bacillus thuringiensis), neem and horticultural oils. Chemical pesticides are deeper into the hit list for plant, bug they're more powerful and longer lasting. The first choice in this category would be systemics that treat from the ground up (but don't use them around children or pets). The least toxic chemical pesticides are generally considered to include malathion, chlorpyrifos, diazinon and carbaryl (Sevin). Carbaryl will kill honeybees, so be careful with it.
