As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
They are connected in parallel. If you still have the instructions on how to wire them check on the connections. You will see two more terminals on the bottom of the receptacle. Connection to these two terminals will protect all of the other parallel connected regular receptacles that you want to connect down stream from the first GFCI.
<><><> As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
there should be 5 wires, hot and switched hot for the switch and hot, neutral and ground for the gfci receptacle.
I'm assuming your 3 sets of wires are black or red, or some other color normally associated with the "hot" wire, a white for neutral and a green or bare conductor for ground. If your GFCI protects only itself and no other receptacles, you splice all the wires of the same color together and attach 'pig tails' to your splice to connect to the GFCI. If your GFCI protects other receptacles 'down stream', you connect only the hot and neutral feed from the panel to the line side of the receptacle. Then you splice the others together as described above and connect your pig tails to the load side. "Line" and "load" should be clearly marked on the GFCI. Your ground in this case is still all spliced together with a pigtail for connection to the GFCI. Line is from the panel. Load is to other receptacles. Getting these reversed will prohibit your GFCI from functioning properly.
Install the GFCI outlet is a location near the hot tub where it can be accessed and tub plugged in. Connect ground wire to green ground screw. Connect black/white wires to LINE side of outlet. Black goes to copper screw, white goes to silver screw. You connect the wires by inserting them into the holes marked LINE and then tightening the screws down tight.
The new cooktop has a 4 wire connection. Red & Black are hot. White is neutral, and green is ground. You existing panel is wired with 3 wires. Black & Red are hot and green is ground. There is no neutral wire. Connect the black to black, red to red, and then connect the white and ground together at the plug.
yes. A GFCI monitors the amount of current flowing from hot to neutral. If there is any imbalance, it trips the circuit.
there should be 5 wires, hot and switched hot for the switch and hot, neutral and ground for the gfci receptacle.
I'm assuming your 3 sets of wires are black or red, or some other color normally associated with the "hot" wire, a white for neutral and a green or bare conductor for ground. If your GFCI protects only itself and no other receptacles, you splice all the wires of the same color together and attach 'pig tails' to your splice to connect to the GFCI. If your GFCI protects other receptacles 'down stream', you connect only the hot and neutral feed from the panel to the line side of the receptacle. Then you splice the others together as described above and connect your pig tails to the load side. "Line" and "load" should be clearly marked on the GFCI. Your ground in this case is still all spliced together with a pigtail for connection to the GFCI. Line is from the panel. Load is to other receptacles. Getting these reversed will prohibit your GFCI from functioning properly.
You will have to run new electrical wire or a single ground wire back to the panel (though the former is highly recommended). A GFCI outlet will cut off the circuit if it senses voltage leaking to ground. If there is no ground wire, it will not function.
Install the GFCI outlet is a location near the hot tub where it can be accessed and tub plugged in. Connect ground wire to green ground screw. Connect black/white wires to LINE side of outlet. Black goes to copper screw, white goes to silver screw. You connect the wires by inserting them into the holes marked LINE and then tightening the screws down tight.
The new cooktop has a 4 wire connection. Red & Black are hot. White is neutral, and green is ground. You existing panel is wired with 3 wires. Black & Red are hot and green is ground. There is no neutral wire. Connect the black to black, red to red, and then connect the white and ground together at the plug.
A GFCI monitors the current in the ungrounded (hot) conductor and the grounded (neutral) conductor. If there is more than 6mA of current difference between the two the GFCI will open the circuit.
yes. A GFCI monitors the amount of current flowing from hot to neutral. If there is any imbalance, it trips the circuit.
Yes provided you have a ground, neutral and hot wire coming to the box.
To reset a GFCI you need to first correct any ground faults in the circuit - or some other other fault in the equipment and/or its flexible cord and/or its plug - being protected by the GFCI, which is causing an imbalance in the currents flowing in the hot and neutral wires. Ground faults are usually caused by wet electrical equipment. Then you need to press the RESET button on the GFCI.
Black is hot and white is neutral.
GFCI's trip on an un balance between the current on the "hot" wire and the current on the neutral wire
If this question is asking if, by using a GFCI, you can protect some equipment controlled by an existing switch, the answer is Yes. My first guess would be that you probably don't need to. A switch that is controlling lighting in an area with a GFCI, such as a bathroom, should - if it was installed correctly - already be controlling a proper lighting fixture. By this I mean if the fixture is above the shower it will be of a type that is safety-listed 'for use in wet locations'. That type of light fixture does not need to be protected by a GFCI since it is designed for use around water. How to feed a switch from a GFCI: Without GFCI protecting the switch: Connect a hot (usually black) wire from the "LINE" side of the GFCI (which will be marked) to one brass screw of the switch. (Assumption is single pole switch.) Connect another hot wire from the other brass screw of the switch to the light fixture or load's hot wire. Connect a neutral (white or gray) from the LINE side of the GFCI all the way to the load neutral without stopping anywhere. Connect all grounds. To GFCI protect the switch: The procedure is the same except you will use the hot and neutral from the "LOAD" side of the GFCI. This will cause the GFCI to interrupt power should a ground fault occur on the switched load. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.