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How do you do a radiator flush on a 1997 Chrysler Sebring?
flushing the radiator for a 1997 sebring u need to take both the radiator hoses off the radiator and take a water hose to the top inlet. leave the cap on it. and let water run through it to flush it out.
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2.4L On the engine end of the upper rad hose. When replacing it make sure the spring goes toward the engine 2.5L it is under the housing that the lower radiator ho…se hooks to on the engine.
Take your car into a shop that does radiator flushes or buy a radiator flush kit from autozone or advanced auto stores you just need the cleaner and a hose
They make a kit.... Go to your local "Has-it-all store" meijers, wal mart, ect- in the automotive aisle you will find a coolant flush kit. It's for doing it your…self but they work great. Otherwise you can probably order one online- I know prestone makes a kit. Comes with attachments that run off a garden hose- and they run about $10
To flush the radiator, go to any auto store and purchase radiator flush fluid. You will have to flush the entire cooling system. 1. Completely drain the system by opening th…e draincock at the bottom of the radiator. 2. Replace the draincock, remove the radiator cap, and pour in all of the flush fluid. After the bottle has been emptied, fill the tank with water. 3. Start the car, and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Run for ten minutes with the heater on its highest setting. 4. Drain the system again, and close the draincock. 5. Remove reservoir, pour out any fluid, scrub and clean it, and flush it with clean water. Reinstall. 6. Refill the cooling system with 50/50 coolant. 7. Start car. 8. Place heater-AC control in any AC mode except "MAX" and the temperature to the highest setting. 9. Allow the engine to idle until the lower radiator to coolant pump hose is hot. 10. Cycle engine speed up to about 3000 RPM and back to idle five times. Slowly open bleed valve on the rear of the thermostat housing for approximately 15 seconds to expel any trapped air in the cooling system. 11. After the air has been expelled, fill the radiator. Install the radiator pressure cap, making sure the arrows on the cap line up with the coolant recovery tube. Allow engine to cool to outside temperature, then check coolant level in the reservoir. If not at the "ADD" (of "FULL COLD") mark, add coolant until it is.
To program your 1997 Chrysler Sebring remote, take your remote and key in the car with you and press the 'lock' button on the remote five times. Put the key in the ignitio…n and turn it to the 'on' or 'run' position, then wait for the chimes to stop. Next, press the 'unlock' button on the remote and hold it down for four seconds. While holding the button down, press the 'panic' button at the same time and hold them both down for one second before releasing them. You'll hear another chime. Next, press the 'lock' and 'unlock' buttons at the same time and release them at the same time. Finally, press and release the 'unlock' button. When you hear the chime again, you're finished.
If it's stuck in defrost your battery died and messed up the computer. Disconnect battery for 5 or more min. Reconnect and it should ok then.
probably the coolant tube under the manifold. it is only available from the dealer
Try as you might to find it, there isn't one. Chrysler put the pressure cap on top of the plastic overflow tank! You need to make sure that cap has a good rubber seal …on it when you remove it. [ you DO allow the engine to cool down before removing that cap don't you? ] When removing the cap, you should hear a short "hiss" sound which is pressure escaping from the cooling system (if the system is warm and not cold). Under these conditions, if there is no "hiss" you most likely have a bad cap so replace it! Only $4.80 at Auto Zone. Just do it. Good luck!
Its a tricky one. You have to unscrew the water pump in order to move it out of the way to get to one of the screws on the Alternator.
It is under the hood, between the engine and grill.
I just did this on a 1997 Sebring JXI 2.5L Convertible. I'm not sure what model you have, but I wouldn't have attempted it without a hayes manual. It took me 2 days to remove …the radiator and condenser. There are many hoses, bolts, clamps, clips, electrical connectors, and bumper cover clips, screws, and bolts that have to be taken care of. A mechanic wanted to charge me $700 to replace the rad & condensor. Now I know why... First you have to remove the top brace which is bolted in place by 4 or 6 bolts on top. I also had to remove 2 bolts from the underside of that piece. Anyway, the most tricky part of removing the units was getting the fan unit out. After it has been unbolted, 4 clips have to be removed (2 on each side.) That will allow the unit to be pulled out. It took me hours to get all of them. It is difficult to see all of them as well as reach them. Everything else is pretty straight forward.
May have Jumped time, could have a failing distributor cap and coil, failing spark plugs, bad O2 sensors, Bad Throttle body position sensor, the list can go on and on.
Shop vac. There are plugs in the rear wheel wells which need to be removed for the water to drain.
On a coupe, it is under the hood. On a convertible, it is insidethe driver side fender.
Either front wheels on a dolly, or all four wheels on a trailer. Either front wheels on a dolly, or all four wheels on a trailer.
It is on the starter. It is on the starter.