make sure chlorine is is at 1-3ppm, if pH is very low raise chlorine slightly higer than average. shock the pool after and run filter for over night. If pool still not stabilize then add PH high chemical.
There are no shortcuts. Get your Alkalinity right, then the PH. If the PH is "bouncing," your choline will spike high and low until you get the PH right. The PH will not be right until the alkalinity is right. If all that is right, you are low on stabilizer.
Improperly sanitized water or excessive rainfall can cause a low total alkalinity level in your pool. Low total alkalinity can cause pool staining, itchy and burning eyes and skin, and corrosion of metal parts in the pool.
Improperly sanitized water or excessive rainfall can cause a low total alkalinity level in your pool. Low total alkalinity can cause pool staining, itchy and burning eyes and skin, and corrosion of metal parts in the pool.
The resistance of pool water to change in pH levels. It's not inaccurate to think of "alkalinity" as pH stabilizer. The distinction is sometimes made between carbonate alkalinity, from baking soda and soda ash -- sodium bicarbonate or carbonate, and total alkalinity, which also includes alkalinity from stabilizer (cyanurates), phosphates and borates. Another Answer: It keeps your pH from jumping around from day to day. It is regulated by adding common baking soda that can be acquired inexpensively in any warehouse type food store. I generally add 10 LB to my 23,000 gallon pool in the spring and another 10 LB if the pH starts to fall too low half way through the season. Hatawa
Add chlorine and stabilizer.
Dilution. You have to remove the overstabilized water and top-off the pool with fresh. Try it in a test sample first. Fill a cup, pour out 25%, top the cup back up with fresh non-pool water and retest your stabilizer level. If that's not low enough, try 33% or 50%. This will tell you how much water you will need to replace in your pool.
Add rain water this has very low alkalinity
The water becomes aggressive and attacks anything with which it comes in contact. Not a good environment for the pool finish or the equipment.
Add more in smaller amounts and test again.
add some form of alkalinity booster for sure. bring it too about 110ppm, chlorine has a naturally high pH, but the higher alkalinity addition will stop acidic compounds from attacking the pH any further. depending on how low the pH is though you may have to add a pH booster, take your water into a pool shop for an in depth water analysis.
Getting a water test at your local pool store would be the first step. Second if it still is low alkalinity add alkalinity increaser. Also can add baking soda is the same stuff. If it says 50lbs you need of Alk. you will need to break that into 3'rds. So every 4 to 6 hours add a third. Have the pump running and you should be good to go after that.
High cyanuric acid (stabilizer) levels will give a false Total Alkalinity reading. Generally if you take your cyanuric reading and divide it by 3 and then subtract that from your Total Alkalinity reading you will get a true adjusted reading. Ex.= Cyanuric is 150ppm, T.A. is 100ppm. 150 divided by 3 is 50. Subtract 50 from 100 and your true adjusted T.A. is 50 which is far too low. Add baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to bring the level back up to 100ppm. Try to keep the cyanuric level between 40-60ppm by checking it once a month. Using isocyanurate chlorines will elevate the level over time. When it starts getting too high, switch to a liquid chlorine diet until it comes back down to desired levels. Make sure the Total Alkalinity levels are kept in the proper range to prevent calcium hydroxide leeching of the plaster. If the walls of the pool have a slick feel but the pool does not have algae, it is probably the T.A. is too low.