How do you install a spark ignition module for a Kenmore stove?
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Remove the two bolts that hold it in place. *This must be done gently but firmly to avoid snapping them off* After the successul removal of the bolts the coil is simply lifted off and the spark plug can be removed without detaching the electrical connection to the coil.
What do you do next when there is still no spark after having ignition module tested and have replaced ignition coils on a 1991 Ford Ranger 4-cylinder 2.3 engine?
Check for a broken wire in one of the cluster of plugs on top of the left wheelwell. Have you checked the plug-in connection fo the crankshaft position sensor located behind the A/C Pwr. steering bracket? A new sensor costs about $150. A fault code would show up if it was bad.
Answer . \nmy ignition module for a 93 s10 was hld by two small bolts on top of the distributor. don't drop one of them into a storm drain they are not easy to buy.
Answer . if you have the module off take it to a parts store(autozone/advanced auto,or whatever you have around your location) they should be able to test it for free. you may also want to check your pick up coil/coil and distributer.
Answer . \nthe ignition control module is operated by the pcm,the pcm tells the ignition control module when to energize the coils to enable spark
1998 Pontiac sunfire will not start it does not get a spark and i changed the ignition coils and the module below it please help me get it started thanks?
Answer . Have you checked for a computer code? That vehicle should have either a crankshaft position sensor or a camshaft position sensor. Make sure it is working properly.
Take off distributor cap, it will have two screws mounting it directly to the ditributor. Unscrew the two screws (probably a 5.5 mm), unplug the wires to it, install the new one and you are set.
Similar Problems found on Ford Ranger 1994, other as well (1983 - 1995) against ford on many cars from Oct 13, 2000 because they misled NHTSA and the public by hidding poor design practices in relationtothe ignition modules, some people die because of this. The ignition module is seated on the engin…e block and it can not take all the heat even if thermal grease is used, eventually it dies, and the cars stall.. Talk to your local dealer maybe they can give you at least a discount on fixing the problem since it has been a while since the seatlement...... (MORE)
Answer . \nthe module is under the coils, unplug the wires, unbot all three coils and unbolt the module. Make sure to use plenty of dielectric grease for a good ground
Answer . \nthere is no way to answer this question without year, model, and engine size information.
1987 suburban stopped running now has no spark replaced coil cap rotor electronic ignition module in distributor?
I'm not sure I understand your question. The ignition module is suspect in this case and yes, it's under the distributor cap. You may also want to replace the distributor cap and rotor while your at it, they're cheap parts and hair-line cracks in a distributor cap can be hard to detect. If all of th…ese fail I'd look at replacing the coil and coil wire to the distributor. (MORE)
1993 suburban showing failure code 43 Electronic Spark Controle Module where is this part located Not ignition controle module?
Answer . 1995 and eariler models use a separate ESC module mounted near the throttle body of TBI
What is your diagnosis on a 1998 Saturn 1.9L with new ignition module and new crank shaft Getting no spark and no signal from injectors?
Answer . \nNew crank shaft or new crankshaft position sensor? If not crank sensor then replce it If new crankshaft probably the wrong one for the year and the notches are off...need more info
The 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse ignition module is located on thefirewall in the engine compartment. The ignition module will be onthe drivers side of the firewall.
1990 Jaguar XJ6 has no spark any suggestions and replaced ingnition modue and coil about a year ago. Could the ignition module purchased bought be defective Is there a way to test the ignition module?
I had the same problem with a 93 Jag. I replaced the ignition module, coil, crank sensor, and even the ECU computer and I still did not have any spark. I was stumped and studying the wiring diagram I replaced the ECM Main Relay that was the problem, it fired right up. The ECM Main Relay on the 93 is… located in the passenger side of the engine compartment on the firewall and it is the farthest outboard relay. Simple fix. I sure hope this helps someone out there (MORE)
Why if you replaced the cap and rotor spark plugs and wires ignition coil and ignition control module in the disributor do you still not get spark at the spark plugs?
Answer . check that you are getting power to the distributor. i am assuming you are talking about a earlier model vehicle . Have you checked the ecm relay? . maybe the pickup coil assy.
Unplug the two wire connectors located above the ignition coils (one has two wires the other larger one has three wires, usually) remove the two ignition coils (4 X 5.5mm bolts). The module is located under the two coils (the coils plug directly into the module).
First disconnect the negative battery cable then make sure engine is cool before you do the next step, disconnect the cooling fan then remove then remove the four bolts that hold the fan in, remove the upper radiator support mount, jack the car up, make sure you put it on jack stand, there is a bolt… on the bottom of the ignition module mount, you have to remove that from under the car, then remove spark plug wire make sure you label them before you remove them because if you don't you will change the firing order and you car may not start or run right if you don't them back in the correct firing order, OK now disconnect the ignition connector then remove the two bolts, one on each side, then remove the ignition module with the coil pack. installation is the same as removal. Good luck. (MORE)
Why would there be no spark when I have already replaced the coil the crank position sensor and the ignition module on a 1987 Nissan d21 pickup with 3.0 engine?
Answer . The computer maybe fubar(no good)?. Answer . have you checked the plug wires distributor cap and rotor? could be the distributor its self or possably the pick up coil
Why start with the module? The coil is is a good place to start. Make sure of course you have voltage at the coil, if not trace it back.
The 1991 Ford Probe spark ignition module can be found on thefirewall in the engine compartment. The ignition module will be onthe drivers side of the firewall.
\nHow far away are you holding the wire from the coil socket? They ought to jump 1/2 inch. In the plug they have to jump a whole lot less. Do you have an engine running problem?
That depends on the car. Most are under the hood in a electronics module box.
In a 83 Oldsmobile you remove the dist cap, unplug and unscrew the module and install a new module. It would be helpful to know if this is your lawnmower or boat engine.
Pull the cover off the air intake box, unclip the two wires from the old module, remove screws. Screw in new module and replace wores and box.. job done
Escriba su respuesta aquÃ ...bueno en primer lugar hay vehiculos que tren el modulo de encendido interno en la computadora y externo la funcion es atraves de la senal del sensor que puede ir en el distribuidor o corona dentada o ciguenal atravez de esta senal el modulo manda a masa el arrollami…ento primario de la bobina con esto se genera la alta tencion que atravez de las bujias es introducida en el motor con el fin de quemar la mezcla aire combustible (MORE)
1993 GMC pickup 4.3 liter v6 It will not start It cranks but will not fire you have no spark at the coil you plan to replace the coil and Ignition module?
You might try a crankshaft position sensor first. Its probably cheaper than an ignition module.
One simple way to do it,on ANY car that has a distributor,is to remove the distribitor from the engine,marking it before you do so that it goes back with rotor & body in EXACTLY the same position.Leave all wiring connected to the distributor except the High Tension(HT) lead & connect a jumper lead f…rom the distributor body to a good ground on the engine.Then go inside the car & turn on the ignition but DO NOT crank the engine.Let the disconnected end of the HT rest on its boot against the car body & holding the distributor in one hand,spin the distributor drive shaft with the other hand.You should see showers of sparks on the end of HT lead as the shaft is spun indicating that the ignition module is OK.....no sparks,module's bad! (MORE)
I don't know, but I have found free auto repair guides on an auto parts store website, autozone.com. Also libraries usually have manuals.
craziness re-metered all new parts to check for bad new stuff and cranked right up all is ok have no idea what was the no start cause guess i will have to wait for total failure to find root cause hi i think you should look at the computer next. the comuters control every thin nowadays. you would be… suprized. so give that a try hope that helps (MORE)
What is wrong with 1986 Celebrity No spark at plugs pickup coil ignition coil and ignition module have been replaced What wire should have power at the distributor and any other ideas?
\nAssuming this is a V6, the Crank Shaft Position Sensor is likely bad. Very common. It is mounted into the side of the block next to the transmission. Hard to see and get to. Has a single wire connection. Remove and replace. Not expensive. Can check with an ohm meter first but I always just replace… if car has more than 80,000 even if not bad, yet. They will suddenly fail. (MORE)
It is inside the distributor, If you look at the right side of it you will see some electric wires and they are hooked to the module. Just remove the cap and then 2 screews that hold the module on the base of the distributor.
What is wrong with My 94 accord that is not running the coil is fine-gets spark replaced the ignition control module car turns over but does not idle?
Check your fuel pump pressure. An easy way is to crank the car over and then loosen the bleeder screw at the end of the fuel rail (assuming it's common-rail fuel injected) and fuel should squirt out. If it doesn't, you have insufficient fuel pressure and should first change your fuel filter, and if …that doesn't work replace your fuel pump relay and then finally your fuel pump. If fuel does squirt out, check your throttle body for proper operation. (MORE)
The Term "Ignition module" can be applied to more than one item. On older cars with a Distributor and coil pack, the ignition module is an electrical switch that turns the power on and off to the coil, which in tern causes the coil to generate a spark. On more modern cars that do not have a di…stributor, but have fully computerised ignition systems, it usually refers to the ignition coil, which also incorporates the item mentioned above. In both cases it's responsible for causing a surge of high voltage electricity to be supplied to the spark plugs to cause the petrol/air mixture in the cylinders to ignite. (MORE)
Your stove probably won't turn on because it is probably aged.. But if you just recently got your stove, you might want to call a technician.
Why would a 1992 Mitsubishi 3000 gt not start no power changed ignition module installed new ECM still won't start?
Diagnosis: Engine Won't Start or Run WHEN AN ENGINE WON'T START Every engine requires four basic ingredients to start: sufficient cranking speed, good compression, adequate ignition voltage (with correct timing) and fuel (a relatively rich air/fuel mixture initially). So any time an engin…e fails to start, you can assume it lacks one of these four essential ingredients. But which one? To find you, you need to analyze the situation. If the engine won't crank, you are probably dealing with a starter or battery problem. Has the starter been acting up? (Unusual noises slow cranking, etc.). Is this the first time the engine has failed to crank or start, or has it happened before? Have the starter, battery or battery cables been replaced recently? Might be a defective part. Has the battery been running down? Might be a charging problem. Have there been any other electrical problems? The answers to these questions should shed some light on what might be causing the problem. If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression. Was it running fine but quit suddenly? The most likely causes here would be a failed fuel pump, ignition module or broken overhead cam timing belt. Has the engine been getting progressively harder to start? If yes, consider the engine's maintenance and repair history. STARTING YOUR DIAGNOSIS What happens when you attempt to start the engine? If nothing happens when you turn the key, check the battery to determine its state of charge. Many starters won't do a thing unless there is at least 10 volts available from the battery. A low battery does not necessarily mean the battery is the problem, though. The battery may have been run down by prolonged cranking while trying to start the engine. Or, the battery's low state of charge may be the result of a charging system problem. Either way, the battery needs to be recharged and tested. If the battery is low, the next logical step might be to try starting the engine with another battery or a charger. If the engine cranks normally and roars to life, you can assume the problem was a dead battery, or a charging problem that allowed the battery to run down. If the battery accepts a charge and tests okay, checking the output of the charging system should help you identify any problems there. A charging system that is working properly should produce a charging voltage of somewhere around 14 volts at idle with the lights and accessories off. When the engine is first started, the charging voltage should rise quickly to about two volts above base battery voltage, then taper off, leveling out at the specified voltage. The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature, the higher the charging voltage. The higher the temperature, the lower the charging voltage. The charging range for a typical alternator might be 13.9 to 14.4 volts at 80 degrees F, but increase to 14.9 to 15.8 volts at subzero temperatures. If the charging system is not putting out the required voltage, is it the alternator or the regulator? Full fielding the alternator to bypass the regulator should tell you if it is working correctly. Or, take the alternator to a parts store and have it bench tested. If the charging voltage goes up when the regulator is bypassed, the problem is the regulator (or the engine computer in the case of computer-regulated systems). If there is no change in output voltage, the alternator is the culprit. Many times one or more diodes in the alternator rectifier assembly will have failed, causing a drop in the unit's output. The alternator will still produce current, but not enough to keep the battery fully charged. This type of failure will show up on an oscilloscope as one or more missing humps in the alternator waveform. Most charging system analyzers can detect this type of problem. ENGINE CRANKING PROBLEMS If the engine won't crank or cranks slowly when you attempt to start or jump start the engine (and the battery is fully charged), you can focus your attention on the starter circuit. A quick way to diagnose cranking problems is to switch on the headlights and watch what happens when you attempt to start the engine. If the headlights go out, a poor battery cable connection may be strangling the flow of amps. All battery cable connections should be checked and cleaned along with the engine-to-chassis ground straps. Measuring the voltage drop across connections is a good way to find excessive resistance. A voltmeter check of the cable connections should show no more than 0.1 volt drop at any point, and no more than 0.4 volts for the entire starter circuit. A higher voltage drop would indicate excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or tightening. Slow cranking can also be caused by undersized battery cables. Some cheap replacement cables have small gauge wire encased in thick insulation. The cables look the same size as the originals on the outside, but inside there is not enough wire to handle the amps. If the headlights continue to shine brightly when you attempt to start the engine and nothing happens (no cranking), voltage is not reaching the starter. The problem here is likely an open or misadjusted park/neutral safety switch, a bad ignition switch, or a faulty starter relay or solenoid. Fuses and fusible links should also be checked because overloads caused by continuous cranking or jump starting may have blown one of these protective devices. If the starter or solenoid clicks but nothing else happens when you attempt to start the engine, there may not be enough amps to spin the starter. Or the starter may be bad. A poor battery cable, solenoid or ground connection, or high resistance in the solenoid itself may be the problem. A voltage check at the solenoid will reveal if battery voltage is passing through the ignition switch circuit. If the solenoid or relay is receiving battery voltage but is not closing or passing enough amps from the battery to spin the starter motor, the solenoid ground may be bad or the contacts in the solenoid may be worn, pitted or corroded. If the starter cranks when the solenoid is bypassed, a new solenoid is needed, not a starter. Most engines need a cranking speed of 200 to 300 rpm to start, so if the starter is weak and can't crank the engine fast enough to build compression, the engine won't start. In some instances, a weak starter may crank the engine fast enough but prevent it from starting because it draws all the power from the battery and does not leave enough for the injectors or ignition system. If the lights dim and there is little or no cranking when you attempt to start the engine, the starter may be locked up, dragging or suffering from high internal resistance, worn brushes, shorts or opens in the windings or armature. A starter current draw test will tell you if the starter is pulling too many amps. A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines. An unusually high current draw and low free turning speed or cranking speed typically indicates a shorted armature, grounded armature or field coils, or excessive friction within the starter itself (dirty, worn or binding bearings or bushings, a bent armature shaft or contact between the armature and field coils). The magnets in permanent magnet starters can sometimes break or separate from the housing and drag against the armature. A starter that does not turn at all and draws a high current may have a ground in the terminal or field coils, or a frozen armature. On the other hand, the start may be fine but can't crank the engine because the engine is seized or hydrolocked. So before you condemn the starter, try turning the engine over by hand. Won't budge? Then the engine is probably locked up. A starter that won't spin at all and draws zero amps has an open field circuit, open armature coils, defective brushes or a defective solenoid. Low free turning speed combined with a low current draw indicates high internal resistance (bad connections, bad brushes, open field coils or armature windings). If the starter motor spins but fails to engage the flywheel, the cause may be a weak solenoid, defective starter drive or broken teeth on the flywheel. A starter drive that is on the verge of failure may engage briefly but then slip. Pull the starter and inspect the drive. It should turn freely in one direction but not in the other. A bad drive will turn freely in both directions or not at all. ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crank position (CKP) sensors A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit. Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness. If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced. If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination. ENGINE CRANKS AND HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT START If you see a good hot spark when you crank the engine, but it won't start, check for fuel. The problem might be a bad fuel pump On an older engine with a carburetor, pump the throttle linkage and look for fuel squirting into the carburetor throat. No fuel? Possible causes include a bad mechanical fuel pump, stuck needle valve in the carburetor, a plugged fuel line or fuel filter. On newer vehicles with electronic fuel injection, connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail to see if there is any pressure in the line. No pressure when the key is on? Check for a failed fuel pump, pump relay, fuse or wiring problem. On Fords, don't forget to check the inertia safety switch which is usually hidden in the trunk or under a rear kick panel. The switch shuts off the fuel pump in an accident. So if the switch has been tripped, resetting it should restore the flow of fuel to the engine. Lack of fuel can also be caused by obstructions in the fuel line or pickup sock inside the tank. And don't forget to check the fuel gauge. It is amazing how many no starts are caused by an empty fuel tank. There is also the possibility that the fuel in the tank may be heavily contaminated with water or overloaded with alcohol. If the tank was just filled, bad gas might be causing the problem. On EFI-equipped engines, fuel pressure in the line does not necessarily mean the fuel is being injected into the engine. Listen for clicking or buzzing that would indicate the injectors are working. No noise? Check for voltage and ground at the injectors. A defective ECM may not be driving the injectors, or the EFI power supply relay may have called it quits. Some EFI-systems rely on input from the camshaft position sensor to generate the injector pulses. Loss of this signal could prevent the system from functioning. Even if there is fuel and it is being delivered to the engine, a massive vacuum leak could be preventing the engine from starting. A large enough vacuum leak will lean out the air/fuel ratio to such an extent that the mixture won't ignite. An EGR valve that is stuck wide open, a disconnected PCV hose, loose vacuum hose for the power brake booster, or similar leak could be the culprit. Check all vacuum connections and listen for unusual sucking noises while cranking. ENGINE HAS FUEL AND SPARK BUT WILL NOT START An engine that has fuel and spark, no serious vacuum leaks and cranks normally should start. The problem is compression. If it is an overhead cam engine with a rubber timing belt, a broken timing belt would be the most likely cause especially if the engine has a lot of miles on it. Most OEMs recommend replacing the OHC timing belt every 60,000 miles for preventative maintenance, but many belts are never changed. Eventually they break, and when they do the engine stops dead in its tracks. And in engines that lack sufficient valve-to-piston clearance as many import engines and some domestic engines do, it also causes extensive damage (bent valves and valvetrain components & sometimes cracked pistons). Overhead cams can also bind and break if the head warps due to severe overheating, or the cam bearings are starved for lubrication. A cam seizure may occur during a subzero cold start if the oil in the crankcase is too thick and is slow to reach the cam (a good reason for using 5W-20 or 5W-30 for winter driving). High rpm cam failure can occur if the oil level is low or the oil is long overdue for a change. With high mileage pushrod engines, the timing chain may have broken or slipped. Either type of problem can be diagnosed by doing a compression check and/or removing a valve cover and watching for valve movement when the engine is cranked. A blown head gasket may prevent an engine from starting if the engine is a four cylinder with two dead cylinders. But most six or eight cylinder engines will sputter to life and run roughly even with a blown gasket. The gasket can, however, allow coolant to leak into the cylinder and hydrolock the engine. (MORE)
Right on top of the engine. its the Silver rectangular piece that has the heat-sink fins on it. Its actually part of the plastic piece (with ecotec 2.2 written on it) that holds the boots for your spark plugs.
Assuming the plugs and wires have already been replaced you may have a bad fuel injector.
It may be possible for an auto parts store to test it for you ( depending on type of vehicle). Call around and tell them the make and model of your vehicle. You will have to remove it ( disconnect your battery first ) and take it to them.
What could make my 1991 Pontiac transport to not start I have replaced the spark plugs and wires The ignition control module and the distributor any suggestions?
Be sure to also check your timing chain. Take the distributor cap off and rotate the engine and look at whether the rotor button is turning. If so, rotate twice to top dead center on your timing mark. One of the two times the rotor button should point to the number one spark plug wire. This will tel…l you whether the chain is broken or has slipped, respectively. (MORE)
First turn off the gas. Then check the valves that the gas travels through to see what is clogging or blocking it and remove whatever it is. Don't forget to turn off the gas
1997 Chevy S10 engine will crank no start - have fuel but no spark I have replaced the ignition coil ignition control module and crackshaft position sensor and still nothing new?
In case you haven't done so allready, check all the fuses under the hood and in the dash.
The ignition module is right underneath the ignition coils. The ignition coils are what the spark plugs attach to. My alro was riding really rough so i just changed my coils and module for $200 and it runs like new. All you do is unplug the wires, unscrew the coils(6 bolts) and there is your module.… :) Hope this helps!! (MORE)
No. The coil provides the spark and the module tells the coil when to spark.
The control module is located under the hood, sometimes inside distributor,or mounted on outside of distributor, or as a distibutor-less module with coil packs mounted on top or on passengerside fender behind headlight area. All depends on make of vehicle.
To replace a coil on your Kenmore stove top, you will need to consult the service manual available on Kenmore's website (available through Sears). This will give you the replacement part number needed and instructions how to replace it. The site also gives you the option to schedule a repair visit i…f necessary. (MORE)
Which item is not a component of the ignition system control module starter solenoid coil spark plug?
Control Module depending on type controls the engine functions, transmission, ignition, etc. (test does not specify "Ignition Control Module") Starter solenoid would be the most likely choice because on older vehicles with points ignition, the solenoid has a R esistor ( R un) post for and an I …gnition ( S tart) post, but now we don't need resistors, but it still has to do with ignition! Coil supplies voltage to the spark plugs = ignition again. Spark plug creates the gap for the spark that the fuel needs to ignite, ignite = ignition. (MORE)
Most Likely The Pick Up Coil , U Will Have to Remove The Distributor And Disassemble to replace the pick up coil.
Yes, if it is a standard gas range with built in oven then it would normally be a conventional oven.
The ignition module on a 2002 Impala is located in part of the electrical system. In some cars, the module kept the car from starting. When the key was turned there would not be a clicking noise. The module works with the passlock system of the car.