These recommendations depend on the height and size of the room, the season, and the activity taking place in the room.
Keep in mind that warm air rises to the top and cold air settles on the bottom. Air settles in layers from warm at the top to cold at the bottom, if left alone at equilibrium.
Ceiling fan recommendations:
In the winter
Set the fan to run counterclockwise (reverse; this looks clockwise as you are looking up). This will redirect the warm air from the ceiling and down the walls and into the living space where the people actually are. In a house, you would run the fan at a low speed so that you don't actually cool the warm air that you are moving downward. If you have a high ceiling, or are trying to heat a hall or a church, you may want to increase the fan speed so that the warm air will reach the living space as long as the fan speed does not create an unwanted downdraft at the people below.
In the summer
In a room of normal height (8 - 10 ft), you should operate your fan so that it turns clockwise (this looks counterclockwise as you are looking up), causing a more directed downdraft, especially with the fan running slightly faster. This causes a wind-chill effect because the skin evaporates slight amounts of water from the sweat glands and thereby provides cooling through the skin's surface. However, the air is only moved but not cooled! You may find that you can turn your thermostat down a degree or two and save more money on energy costs. The air blowing down won't actually cool the room though, so you should turn the fan off when there are no people (or animals) in the room.
In a high hall or church
It may be best NOT to run the fans at all in summer. This lowers the demand for cooling since the hot layer on top is an excellent insulation between the cool air near the floor (and the people) and the hot roof and outside.
A large, tall manufacturing hall would typically have different goals. There one would have a floor full of heat producing machinery plus the people operating it, working hard and welcoming a bit of a breeze. Then it would make sense to run the fans at fairly high speed to create a certain and directed downdraft. And with the shifts going throughout the days of the week, the fans should be running all the time and maybe in all seasons.
Finally, fans typically use 80-100 watts. When used properly, ceiling fans can really help to optimize the comfort level of the people and save energy and money.
Another user contributes this:
The important point from the previous answer is that fans are for cooling people. Advanced Energy (see the Related Link) says: "The most optimistic estimates I've seen on energy savings from ceiling fans peg the air conditioning savings at about 15%, assuming people do raise the thermostat setting and only run the fans when people are in the room, and taking into account the cost of energy used by the fan itself."
I own a Sears Kenmore electric dryer model 86880800. It was purchased when we moved into our home April 1988.
Bathroom ceiling vent fans carry no warnings about continuous use. A fan in good condition, used in a good environment, will not heat excessively. However, a defective, older, or worn fan, or a fan that is binding or prevented from turning, or operated where airflow is blocked, can overheat, possibly dangerously. If a fan is making any kind of grinding or squealing noise, it should not be operated. A fan that does not turn freely should not be turned on. Such defective fans should be replaced, and it is good practice to replace any older ceiling fan (over six years) as a matter of course. They operate in harsh conditions, often ventilating moist or dirty, smoky air. A good quality, new fan will likely be quieter and more efficient, and it won't have the wear problems that can cause overheating. Potentially it is a fire hazard. Many vent fans use an open frame motor that depends upon air flow past it for cooling, and some vent fans are enclosed in plastic housings.
Over time, dust and lint can collect on this open frame motor, insulating it from the air flow and causing it to heat up. Eventually, if it gets hot enough, it can fail electrically and blow a spark. This spark can ignite the dust and lint, and if the housing is plastic the housing can ignite as well. This becomes a serious problem.
More here, about an actual case where this happened:
The food will stay cold for about four hours if you don't open the door, according to U.S. Department of Health & Human Services. Freezers can keep their contents frozen a little longer—full freezers will be okay for about 48 hours, and half-full freezers are good for 24 hours.
If the power is going to be out longer than that, dry or block ice can keep your food cold until the electricity comes back on. You can make your own ice during winter power outages by filling containers with water and leaving them outside, but don't put your food out in the snow to keep it cold—that's asking for trouble from your local wildlife.
(Note: Haier may remain unheard of to many people but it is indeed the largest home appliance maker in the world.)
That actually depends on where you buy it. You can get one from the dollar store for a dollar plus tax or get a more expensive one at Walmart or an army store.
Look behind the toe plate in front of the fridge, usually mounted near the center, or it will be mounted on the inside of the fresh food section, behind the control housing. Be sure to unplug the fridge before attempting refrigerator repair on this control.
The appliances usually go on sale on holidays especially Thanksgiving . Home Depot, Sear's, Hobo, Lowe's etc runs special deals on black Friday.Hobo usually have great deals year around but black Friday deals are really good.
The formula you are looking for is W = I x E. Watts = Amps x Volts. W = 18 x 240 = 4320. Your dryer is rated at 4320 watts.
However, just because your 240 volt outlet is rated at 18 amps does not mean that is what your appliance will draw.
If the appliance is listed (by the manufacturer) as 1500 watts, then 1500 / 240 = 6.25, would mean that it will draw 6.25 amps at 240 volts.
Within the United States, most regular size electric dryers require a 240 volt, 30 amp power source. In addition to the electric heating element, there is the drum electric motor that must be factored in determining the wattage rating. That is the reason that it is best to use the manufacturer's nameplate rating for the answer to this question.
Shouldn't be a problem. The 250V is likely a maximum rating and it is designed for 220-240 V service. Just make sure the current draw is less than the circuit breaker rating.Another Answer
If you are referring to a European residential service, then you should be aware that the nominal voltage is 230 V, not 220 V, and there are no such things as 250-V appliances. An appliance's rated voltage will always match the nominal voltage of the supply they are designed to operate from.
But you should be aware that 230 V is a 'nominal', or 'named', value -the actual value is allowed to increase by 10% -in other words, it can be up to 23 V higher than its nominal value. This means that you can expect a 230-V supply to vary up to 253 V.
If the pilot light is on and no hot water, then the regulator is not turning the gas flow on. The commonest cause for this is a faulty thermocouple. This is a thin copper tube that's heated by the pilot light and relays a voltage to the regulator. This can be changed by a competent handyman in about 1/2 hour. The part you need is available in many plumbing stores, best one is Honeywell Universal Thermocouple, costing $8-10. Installation is intricate and you need a good flashlight, very small wrenches and patience. The copper tube is delicate, be careful not to kink it.
If the flood was with fresh water and the electricity was cut off before it got "soaked", then the chances are that it only need to dry up before you try to turn it on.
Even a saltwater flood does not always make a lot of damage, but it will need to be thoroughly rinsed with fresh water and allow to completely dry before turning it on.
It is a good idea to have somebody with electrical knowledge to look at it before using it.
Switching on power when it is still wet or dirty in the machinery can (and in most cases will) cause irreparable damage to the motor and circuitry controlling the motor.
If you mean that a gas hot water heater (HWH) has the flame go out (located beneath the HWH tank.) Then this is the normal operation whenever the temperature reaches the set point. You can regulate this temperature by adjusting the control, on the HWH. (hint: Be careful when raising the temperature, increase it slowly over a few days as the shower temp. may surprise someone in your home.) If it continues to shut off too frequently, you may have a gas or HWH regulator related problem, in that case call a professional.
This explanation does not apply to electric or oil fired HWH's.
Solonoid assembly that shifts the transmission
ANS 2 - The wig-wag is a small frame containing two solenoids. It's biggest use is to switch the washer in to'spin' mode. -If your washer will not switch into'spin' chances are one of the solenoids has failed. Not a common problem, but happens occasionaly and usually fairly easy to replace.
Reliable, simple and safe. Heat can be regulated by changing the resistance in the circuit.
According to the installation instructions the capacity is 3.2 cubic feet.
debris from ur clothes over time collect in ur washer
It does not rust. It oxidizes and tarnishes. The bright red color of clean, new copper will burnish into a dull brown. Look at a penny... a pre 1982 US penny is 95% copper and 5% zinc.
it is use to adjust the set point of the aircondition for cool and heat, fan also on
Wash it on cold. Gentle Cycle. Hang to dry.
Get one of those cans for cleaning computer keyboards and a good hairdryer that can get very hot. Aim the hairdryer on 'Hot' at the dent until the metal is too hot to touch. Now spray it with the can of compressed air on the same area, - most times it will pop right out.
No; the third prong is there to protect you from stray voltage and it grounds the wiring. Although you could probably find an adaptor, it would be much safer for you to have an electrician rewire the outlets so they can accept a three prong plug.
Sears would be a great place to look for scratch and dent appliances in Chicago.They sell hundreds of appliances and are more than willing to reduce the price when a scratch or dent is noted.
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