These recommendations depend on the height and size of the room, the season, and the activity taking place in the room.

Keep in mind that warm air rises to the top and cold air settles on the bottom. Air settles in layers from warm at the top to cold at the bottom, if left alone at equilibrium.

Ceiling fan recommendations:

In the winter

Set the fan to run counterclockwise (reverse; this looks clockwise as you are looking up). This will redirect the warm air from the ceiling and down the walls and into the living space where the people actually are. In a house, you would run the fan at a low speed so that you don't actually cool the warm air that you are moving downward. If you have a high ceiling, or are trying to heat a hall or a church, you may want to increase the fan speed so that the warm air will reach the living space as long as the fan speed does not create an unwanted downdraft at the people below.

In the summer

In a room of normal height (8 - 10 ft), you should operate your fan so that it turns clockwise (this looks counterclockwise as you are looking up), causing a more directed downdraft, especially with the fan running slightly faster. This causes a wind-chill effect because the skin evaporates slight amounts of water from the sweat glands and thereby provides cooling through the skin's surface. However, the air is only moved but not cooled! You may find that you can turn your thermostat down a degree or two and save more money on energy costs. The air blowing down won't actually cool the room though, so you should turn the fan off when there are no people (or animals) in the room.

In a high hall or church

It may be best NOT to run the fans at all in summer. This lowers the demand for cooling since the hot layer on top is an excellent insulation between the cool air near the floor (and the people) and the hot roof and outside.

A large, tall manufacturing hall would typically have different goals. There one would have a floor full of heat producing machinery plus the people operating it, working hard and welcoming a bit of a breeze. Then it would make sense to run the fans at fairly high speed to create a certain and directed downdraft. And with the shifts going throughout the days of the week, the fans should be running all the time and maybe in all seasons.

Finally, fans typically use 80-100 watts. When used properly, ceiling fans can really help to optimize the comfort level of the people and save energy and money.

Another user contributes this:

The important point from the previous answer is that fans are for cooling people. Advanced Energy (see the Related Link) says: "The most optimistic estimates I've seen on energy savings from ceiling fans peg the air conditioning savings at about 15%, assuming people do raise the thermostat setting and only run the fans when people are in the room, and taking into account the cost of energy used by the fan itself."

The food will stay cold for about four hours if you don't open the door, according to U.S. Department of Health & Human Services. Freezers can keep their contents frozen a little longer—full freezers will be okay for about 48 hours, and half-full freezers are good for 24 hours.

If the power is going to be out longer than that, dry or block ice can keep your food cold until the electricity comes back on. You can make your own ice during winter power outages by filling containers with water and leaving them outside, but don't put your food out in the snow to keep it cold—that's asking for trouble from your local wildlife.

The formula you are looking for is W = I x E. Watts = Amps x Volts. W = 18 x 240 = 4320. Your dryer is rated at 4320 watts.

However, just because your 240 volt outlet is rated at 18 amps does not mean that is what your appliance will draw.

If the appliance is listed (by the manufacturer) as 1500 watts, then 1500 / 240 = 6.25, would mean that it will draw 6.25 amps at 240 volts.

Note:

Within the United States, most regular size electric dryers require a 240 volt, 30 amp power source. In addition to the electric heating element, there is the drum electric motor that must be factored in determining the wattage rating. That is the reason that it is best to use the manufacturer's nameplate rating for the answer to this question.

Shouldn't be a problem. The 250V is likely a maximum rating and it is designed for 220-240 V service. Just make sure the current draw is less than the circuit breaker rating.

If you are referring to a European residential service, then you should be aware that the nominal voltage is 230 V, not 220 V, and there are no such things as 250-V appliances. An appliance's rated voltage will always match the nominal voltage of the supply they are designed to operate from.

But you should be aware that 230 V is a 'nominal', or 'named', value -the actual value is allowed to increase by 10% -in other words, it can be up to 23 V higher than its nominal value. This means that you can expect a 230-V supply to vary up to 253 V.

If you mean that a gas hot water heater (HWH) has the flame go out (located beneath the HWH tank.) Then this is the normal operation whenever the temperature reaches the set point. You can regulate this temperature by adjusting the control, on the HWH. (hint: Be careful when raising the temperature, increase it slowly over a few days as the shower temp. may surprise someone in your home.) If it continues to shut off too frequently, you may have a gas or HWH regulator related problem, in that case call a professional.

This explanation does not apply to electric or oil fired HWH's.

Solonoid assembly that shifts the transmission

ANS 2 - The wig-wag is a small frame containing two solenoids. It's biggest use is to switch the washer in to'spin' mode. -If your washer will not switch into'spin' chances are one of the solenoids has failed. Not a common problem, but happens occasionaly and usually fairly easy to replace.