How do you repair locked seatbelt?
In GMC Jimmy
You have screw something out then take it to a car center to tell them how to put it back together
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make sure that the latching mechanism is open and not closed.. that's the part that is shaped like a c where the door meets the striker(the nob that sticks out from the car) if its closed it would be like running into a closed door.. when open it should close around it correctly..if not you may need… to replace the nob. Not expensive either. (MORE)
Hey Brad==If it is all of the locks, there is a fuse, circuit breaker ot fuseable link that is burned out. If it is individual ones they can be brouight to life by lubricating them sometimes. If not they need replacing. Goodluckjoe
I too own a 1987 2.0Si. Both inside door locks were broken when I got the car for $400 US. I have since replaced the lock flappers from the wrecking yard. There is no other way to repair this as the flappers are made cheaply in a flimsy plastic. You do have to disassemble the door panels for access.… Once you acquire the new inside handles, oh yes, the flappers are intregrated into the inside handles, be sure to carefully clean and lubricate all of the pawls and links adjecent to the latch mechanism for ease of operation. The inside handles are unique to the 1987 Preludes only, so you might have to look at several wrecks before you can come up with one for each side. While you are looking for the inside handles be on your P's & Q's and collect the following plastic security pieces: 1. The plunger and sockets that hold the lower door panel. 2. The small square screw buttons that are similar to the ones that hold the speakers, but are slightly larger to replace the fragile buttons that hold the front edge of the door panels. You should consider replacing the plastic vapor barrier, since it is most likely falling apart by now. I got a can of a popular spray adhesive with a yellow top and a cow as a logo to hold the plastic in place. Honda used some putty like substance to hold the barrier originally. I removed what I could with a popcicle stick to avoid damaging the painted surfaces. As a last measure. I lubricated the actuation rods for the lock & door handle where they pass thru the plastic hold downs & also at the anti-rattle felt pad. Once all of the above steps are taken the doors close with a good solid sounding thunk, instead of a slam rattle, rattle. The fragile lock flappers can only be cured in two ways as I see it, by using a good solid design in metal instead of plastic. Or be on the lookout for electric locks on later models, 1988, I believe, and grab the solenoids wiring and mounting brackets. Be sure to take notes on the mountings for the left and right doors, so you won't have to go back, as I have to and take notes after the fact. The electric locks will take the stress off of the plastic flappers, but who cares if they snap again, just put in a button to control the electrics. I hope my travels along the road can help you. Because the Prelude is a hell Of a car in many ways. Cood luck, Pockittin (MORE)
%DETAILS% TAke the trim pad off and see what is wrong with the linkage. Probably need an door actuator kit
Check all of the fuses to see if it blew a fuse, If you want to remove the seatbelt, pull the plastic cover and there are bolts inside to remove them. If you want to simply disconnect the electrical part, there is a connector under the sear.
No, not at all. You can get them used on eBay for $35 or from a junkyard. The motor connects to a belt that runs above your door. The belt runs through a track. Usually you buy the whole motor along with the belt and track all as one set for $35 because it is tricky to replace just the motor because… they are all interconnected. Your problem may not be the motor. It could be a fuse or when you open the door it may not be triggering the motor to run. (MORE)
Common cause is something dropped down the inside of the belt roll as it is retracting, or vehicle is not level. Suggest you either level the vahicle or take belt out and clean. Mechanism may be faulty/jamming. Don't take chances with safety.
I hope you never have an accident in a car,but if you do,would you want to trust your life to an amateur repair on a seatbelt?Don't even think about it,buy new. . Most vauxhalls from around the mid-nineties had pyrotechnic (explosive)seat belt tensioners which activated like an airbag would to keep… you in your seat.You need to know how to deal with these.Don't go there. This Is True They Do Have Explosives In Them. You Need A Licence To Repair Or Remove The Pretensioner. It Will Also Fail The MOT If Repaired. A Deactivator Is Normally Attached To The Pretentioner By A Cable. It Is A Red Clip Looking Thing. Most Garages Take Them Off As They Loose Them. Never try to repair seat belts, or belt locks. If it's broken, replace it. End of. Of course, you can try to repair them, but I wish you best of luck when you exit your car through the windscreen at 30Mph due to a bodged repair to a non-serviceable item. (MORE)
I need to know how to repair the power lock on my corola dx 95 rear right door the door panel must be removed there is a electronic lock solenoid that controls the lock eods to door latch. if it grinds or makes noise replace solenoid if there is no noie check for a 12volt signal at plgs to lock sol…enoid if ther is no power sometime wire breaksin the door jam harness from opening and closing door wires bend back and forth and are known to break 80 % its the lock solenoid (MORE)
Repair would be to replace and I have no direct knowledge of the 99 model but my 2001 wasn't so hard and I would guess that the 99 will be a similar replacement. * Remove the door panel, on the 2001 it's 2 screws located on the inside door handle, 2 on the bottom and one at the top near the mir…ror. * With that removed you take off the foam panel and expose the inside of the door. * The lock actuators are easy to find, they are attached to the lock rod. There is one electrical connector on it that is taken off by lifting the lock clip using a slot screwdriver then just pull the connector out. * The actuator itself is a bit odd to get out. To look at the new one it seemed to me that it would click in from the top but after doing the first one I saw that it actually SLIDES in from the direction of the outside of the door. I found a very thin narrow slit located where the striker hits the lock on the outside door jam and this goes directly to the side of the actuator. I fashioned a tool from a narrow putty knife then pushed it into the slit and then pushed onto the actuator releasing the little friction clip that you can see on the new actuator. You then have to push and push this whole thing towards the outside wall of the door which doesn't go too easily. On my passenger side i resorted to a long slot screwdriver to use as a lever to help slide the thing forward because it didn't want to budge. The good thing though is that the new ones slide right into place easily. * Another thing, the pin on the actuator that moves the lock-rod just sits inside the lock-rod, there is no mechanical attachment and it fairly loose so no need to worry about that part of it. ---- Another Procedure Write-up # Remove the retainer screw from the door handle cover and remove # Remove the screw from the bottom left corner of the door panel # Pull the door panel away from the door, starting at the bottom (may need to start with door half open then close fully to remove). Lift up and off the door # Peel back the door insulation by working gently at edges # Remove 3 black screws from the face of the door latch mechanism # Disconnect the controller arm at the top of the door latch mechanism that connects to the outside door handle. The plastic connector will push up from the metal arm after the locking tabs are pushed in # Open the door half way and remove the 3 screws from the side of the door around the door latch # The door latch mechanism is now able to be removed out from the inside of the door. The black wire cables may need to be removed from some of the retaining clamps # The lock actuator can be removed. The actuator body will twist out of the spring clamp. Then the bar at the end of the actuator can be removed by turning . Another Procedure Write-up For a 2001 SEL, which likely applies to all 1999-2003 models: Some of the other procedures here attempt to not have to remove the latch & lock assembly. I found it immensely easier to get the assembly loosened to the point where I could see the backside where the actuator slides into the assembly. The adds a couple of extra steps, but, it was less frustrating than trying to work blind in the corner of the inside of the door. . Tools needed: . 7mm or 9/32 socket with 6" extension . 11mm socket . Small to medium prying tools. I use a $3 set of nylon ones from Harbor Freight . Razor blade / knife . T30 star fastener bit - for the door latch to door fasteners . Magnetic tray to help avoid losing parts & screws . Flashlight if your eyes are 2 days past "middle-age" . Remove two (2) 7mm screws at the bottom corners of the door panel . Remove two (2) 7mm screws just below the pull-handle - actually they just stayed in the deep access holes and didn't come out . Remove the black triangle cover at the top front corner NOTE: there is a friction-clip near the top of the triangle. Pry/pull at the top to release and then lift up & away. Don't pry at the bottom like I did, or you'll just break-off the internal clip. No real harm as the cover is pretty sturdy even without it . Remove the now-visible 7mm screw from the top front corner of the panel . Remove the clip-in cover behind the door handle NOTE: the friction-clip is at the front of the cover. Pry it up a bit and pull the cover towards the front of the door to clear the other hooks . The panel will now lift-up and away from the door. There are NO friction-clips so don't waste your time prying the panel away , just lift . Release two (2) wiring connectors at the topside of the panel - push-in clips to release the connector . Optional: If your door has the courtesy light, turn the light socket counter-clockwise to release from the panel. Whew! The door panel is now free of the door . The foam cover is lightly glued to the door - gently pull it away. The razor blade/knife will help you keep from tearing the material Inside the door . There are 2 wiring connectors, only 1 of which goes to the door lock. I released the bottom connector earlier-on, and the other one was easier to release after the assembly is loose . Remove three (3) 11mm nuts that hold the exterior door handle cover . Try and wriggle the door handle to slide it off the top of the connector rod. There's a 90 degree turn to get through, but it should slide & wriggle past it and off the rod . Release the inside door handle cable from the nylon holder-clip. Just provides more wriggle-room . Remove the three (3) T30 mounting screws from the door latch on the end of the door . With the entire assembly loose inside the door, you should be able to turn and wriggle it around the internal window support and get it out to the largest opening in the door to work on it NOTE: the interior door handle cable, exterior door handle connector rod, doorlock manual operation rod and maybe even the second wire connector are still hooked onto the assembly - but there's enough play to get the assembly out to the opening for clear access . The actuator itself slides on/off the assembly from the outside side of the door. Take note of the retainer-clip on the new one, and then spot it on the old one - press it in and push / slide the actuator off the assembly Overall, not a bad job and I wouldn't hesitate to do the next one. Almost forgot to tell you where I bought my part. Autozone wanted $70-100, and one of the local salvage yards priced a used one at $30. I bought a brand new one from RockAuto.com for $32 plus $3 shipping. Be sure to review all the various procedure write-ups in this WikiAnswer and you'll find it pretty easy to stop having to reach across the seats to unlock the darned door for your wife! One last thing: if this write-up helps you out, please hit the Contributor Trust & Question Popularity links below - I appreciate it and good luck! . ---- I just replaced my drivers door actuator - it takes some time and patience. I would suggest that you go to a wrecker and get some "practice". Much more cost effective as well! I have a pull-a-part wrecker with a good selection of Windstars. Door panel off - take it easy on the power accessory/speaker harnesses. Have a good look at the lock configuration - connections from inside handle, outside handle, lock and actuator piston. Start removing clips and wires. You may have to unscrew exterior handle/molding to get some give on the interior - you will be working through cutouts in the door. Good idea to take a quick photo before you start. Good luck..... Answer ...from what i can find in my owners manual, check fuse # 37, this is the fuse for the power door locks Answer There could be one of the switches gone bad.... happened to me, the switch by the back door was fried and none of the other ones would work. (MORE)
Answer . \nATTN 2000 GOLF OWNER THE ONLY SAFE WAY TO FIX THE CENTER SEAT BELT IS TO REPLACE IT AS LOCKING SYSTEM IS TOO SENSITIVE. TO DO THIS YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE SEAT BACK, THEN REMOVE THE SEATBACK COVER . BEHIND THE FOAM YOU WILL FIND THE ATTACHING BOLT. NOTE: PAY CLO…SE ATTENTION WHEN DISSASEMBLING AS ASSEMBLY IS A LITTLE TRICKY!!!!........... (MORE)
Answer . once you remove the locking hub assembly and lockrings the rotor-hub assembly comes off in one piece. The rotors are pressed onto the hubs. You will need to take them to a brake repair shop or machine shop to get them seperated. I've done it at home by hammering out the wheel lug studs b…ut still needed to take the new rotor and hub to a shop to get them pressed together so you might as well as take them from the get go. (MORE)
just got done changing one.. its not hard at all. behind the handle is a plug in the plastic, remove carefully and take the screw out. after that you must push forward on the assembly, careful not to force to hard, you may break the plastic clips behind it once it is out remove the plastic hanger on… the door lever bar. don't drop in the door like i did. pull out handle and cover there one piece . remove electric door lock plug if you have one. then put it back in the same way you took it out. (MORE)
You should call a Toyota Dealership. I believe the seatbelts are covered via some sort of something. I've had two replaced for free and not at the dealership where the car was purchased.
Answer . there is a retaining nut or clip on the back of the lock that holds it in place. remove the door panel and see what is broke or if the nut has loosened,and fell off. check the bottom of the door. It may be there waiting there to be found. hope it helps. duboff
Answer . \n. \nEveryone should have a manual, and the library should have a professional shop manual available for copies in the reference section (FOR FREE)...read up and fix 'em like the pro's...! :)\n. \nDave
Those really don't get repaired - they get replaced. Just takes a couple wrenches to get the old one off and tighten the new one in.
Safety first . It says in my book that if there is anything wrong with the retractor, or if they are locked up from an accident the only fix is replacement.
How do you repair the power door lock on 1998 dodge ram 2500 truck door panel removal and repair of the lock?
Answer . If your windows still work on the switch than it is most likely that the switch is bad I had the same problem with mine and it was the switch
Answer . You need to first check your relays to make sure they are passing power, then check your switches to see if they are passing power, and if so, you will need to remove the interior panel on the door, (Some plastic clips and a couple screws/bolts located near the door opening lever should… do it) Once this is removed, you'll look to the bottom left corner and you'll see a cylinder covered in black rubber. There is one rivet holding this to the car along the jamb, drill the rivet out and twist the lock motor gently off the hook attached to the actual locking mechanism. You will need to either re-rivet the new motor/solenoid into place, or use a small bolt/nut to hold it there. Reassemble. (MORE)
If a 2000 Elantra airbags are deployed and seat belts are locked how do you replace the seatbelts and will the seatbelts work if airbag light is still on?
Replacing the seatbelts involves removing several interior trim panels, unfortunately almost all of them, starting from the front. If the seatbelt will no longer retract, it is non-functioning and needs replacement. Seat belts should ALWAYS be replaced after an accident involving airbag deployment.… The airbag light is telling you the dealer or a qualified mechanic needs to do some slightly dangerous work replacing the airbags and the airbag controller. (MORE)
1.- check that the fusse is good, even better, check that the fusse is there. . 2.- replace the remote control battery. . I bet you either one will solve the problem.
If the bottom doors unlock but the top hatch stays locked remove the paneling from inside the vehicle on the back doors. check through the wire near where the hatch meets the frame at the top of the van. Its likely that the wires have been cut through do to bending.
My glove box latch handle fell off about a month ago. The latching pins had loosened and let the handle fall out. I couldn't figure out how to push them back into place without replacing the whole glove box door. And after reading the FYI, I knew I didnt want to do that. Today I just fixed it. Took …an hour and cost me $2.00 Canadian dollars... The problem is that the factory pins are too short to push in when the handle is in place. If they were a bunch longer you could push them in through the spaces between the latch and the glove box door. I bought 2 feet of 1/8" steel rod stock (from home depot). The original pins are metric and are smaller diameter, so you need to drillout the holes in the handle to 1/8" to take the new pins. You don't need to drill the pin seats in the glove box door (not that I think its possible anyway); the 1/8" stock is just slightly bigger and can be pushed in with a bit of force (twisting them helps). A tight fit here is really good anyway, since the metric pins came loose by themselves in the first place. I will let you know if it breaks at -40 this winter.... http://is.rely.net2-1060-1120...g.jpg In this pic you can see the smaller pins in the middle and the new pins to the left. I first pushed the original pin in the hole and marked the depth with some tape to match. You can just see the tape mark on the original pin. If you look at the drill bit, you will see some wire insulation I put over it so that the new holes would only be drilled as deep as the old ones. http://is.rely.net2-1060-1120...g.jpg Here you can see the point to all this. The pins are now long enough to push in from the hole between the handle and the glove box door. You need to insert the pins from the center space where the handle goes, and push the pins outward to positions shown. http://is.rely.net2-1060-1121...g.jpg This picture almost shows the pin end in the slot. I used a pen knife blade to engage the pins. They only go in a few mm. It also helps to move the handle open and closed slightly while pushing the pin. Oh by the way, since this was experiemental (on may car anyway, I forgot to measure the pins before I put it together. But you can see from the picture what the ball park is. Dont forget that once its together, it ain't coming apart, so test fit everything before installing. Good luck and have fun... (MORE)
If you're trying to use an old/used door lock to replace one on your car, you can take it to an automotive locksmith. The chrome cap will have to be removed and replaced and the wafers in the lock will have to be matched to your existing key. You can then install the lock in your vehicle and your ol…d key will fit all locks once more.. The locksmith should also be able to provide you with a new lock retainer for installing the lock into the door.. If it's not a door but the ignition, a good locksmith can hand-cut a new key to an old ignition lock, or if the ignition isn't installed yet, he can also set the lock up to fit your existing key. Use caution when replacing ignition locks. Incorrect installation can lead to dangerous conditions while driving.. If your vehicle has airbags, leave it to a professional. Airbags can be dangerous and require special handling while working around. (MORE)
To repair the wiring on the trucks door locks, you will have tofind the problem first. Check all of the wires connectors for looseor bad connections, and look for any places in the wiring where theinsulation has worn through.
take it off n buy a new one.......... then put the new one on........and that's all
I suggest you contact a local repairer, in Thomson or Yell.com etc. look under heading "Double Glazing Repairs". or if you can remove it from the window, and identify if its an espagnolette type (when you turn the handle it moves several locking cams) or a cockspur handle, which just catches on to… the frame. Once you have identified it your half way their, look for any marking or Logo's etc, do a search on the net thru catologues etc. (MORE)
A locked rear center seat belt on a 2000 VW Golf GTI can berepaired by unsticking the mechanism. The best way to do this is tospray it with a lubricant like WD-40 and then take a long needleand poke into the locking mechanism. The seat belt is probablyjammed because something is caught in the latch.… (MORE)
don't think you can, i had the pass lock problem where the anti-driver/ anti-theft light will flash and make you wait 15 mins w/ your car on accessory before starting, because it thinks your trying to steal your own car. i lived it w/ it for almost a yr of it happening anywhere from 1x-8x a week, be…fore the light would just always stay on before i got it fixed. from what i read its basically a hall effect sensor that craps out. there are articles out there that talk about cutting the passlok wire and rigging it w/ a switch to bypass it, they also say you can bypass it by putting in a remote start- i didn't want to do either and my mechanic didn't want to mess w/ it and suggested i go to the dealer, which i did, they replaced the lock cylinder and ignition switch which ended up being $500 job- it did fix the problem, haven't had any issues w/ it since (MORE)
Spray some WD40 in it,have a rag with you because it will run back out you don't want it on paint or any other material.
I don't know the answer but any glove box lock is a joke. I would just replace it but never lock it.
There is not a specifically designated fuse for the power locks on the underdash fusebox label. The power locks are actually on the sunroof fuse (#15), whether or not the car has a sunroof. Check that fuse and replace if necessary.
lol idk im tryin to do the same on my 96 cavi i can get the 3 screws out and that's about it try goin in there and working it but nope lol so bunje strap the door to my seat lol its a pain tho
you press the unlock button. it is generally orange and says 'press' located on the part you click the seatbelt into.. If the belt won't pull out, you will need to replace it.
Lock works only with key now. Both dash and remote buttons stopped working. If trunk is open both work ok. But when closed, they stop. Pressure on lid or lock and lubing parts has no effect.
There are several areas that could go wrong. The lock cylinder, the short forked arm that connects the lock cylinder to the inner door latch, and the actuator rod to the lock knob on the door top interior panel. Replacement parts for the plastics that hold actuator rods are available through many on…line Porsche sources. If the key turns and the door unlocks, butnothing happens with the lock knob, it is likely one of these has come undone. The other possible culprit is if the short forked arm on the back of the lock cylinder. If the key turns and the lock does not function, this will likely be at fault. I have not seen one break off, but it does have a single screw holding it on. Should the screw loosen it would come off or lose alignment and not function. If the key does not turn I would look to either a siezed inner lock mechanism, which can be lubricated or replaced, or a faulty lock cylinder. The cylinder will often become corroded from age and lack of use. To repair any of these you need to remove the inner door panel. The actuators are in plain sight. To fix any issue with the lock cylinder or door handle itself, remove the 2 8mm nuts securing the door handle and remove the handle. Once removed, take out the single Phillips head screw holding the forked actuator arm to the back of the knob. Once removed, insert the key into the lock, and from the back, push the lock cylinder out. It can then be cleaned and lubricated. Be careful, if you remove the individual locking pins after pulling the lock cylinder, you MUST put them back in the same locations or your key will no longer fit the lock, you will have essentially "re-keyed" the lock. There are a number of free Porsche online forums for advice, many also have parts for sale sections. I tend to use Pelican Parts. Even if a part for your car is no longer available at the dealer, you would likely find a used replacement free or cheap from a fellow Porsche owner. Enjoy your car. Vince Delaware (MORE)
The first thing is to lubricate the keyhole with something like WD40 or a liquid base graphite solution usually available at home depot or auto part stores. If that does not work,you need to get the Vehicle Identification Number or V.I.N. and contact the dealer of the brand vehicle. They will be… able to give you the key I.D. if you can prove ownership. Hope this helps. Good Luck Car door locks that won't turn can be due to dirty cylinder and wafers, corrosion, or a worn out key. Lubrication usually works. There are also some cars such as Toyota's that have split wafers. Honda Sidewinder keys also can have wafer issues that a locksmith can fix fairly easily. Locksmiths with a shop can usually look at the car and determine the problem. (MORE)
Door Panels . Removal & Installation . 1. Remove the sail panel (Front Doors Only). . 2. Remove the door panel by carefully lifting the panel upward to release the retaining clips.. 3. Remove the electrical plugs that control the windows, exc.. Fix or replace door lock.. The installation is th…e reverse of the removal.. (MORE)
Remove the front seat, four bolts hold it down to the floor and unplug a pig tail connection under the seat. you will then have access to the seat belt buckle in between the seat and the center counsel.
you firstly align the car door with the rest of the car, the best way to check if it is aligned is to measure it with the roof.. You then screw the screws of the hinge back on. this should work
You could check with a locksmith to find out if it is repairable. If it were mine I would install a new lock cylinder
I was told by a chevy service manager that it would cost in the neighborhood of $300.
How do you repair a key lock on 2005 Honda Civic car? Thanks Nina Scott
Hey. If you can access the back of the roller there may be a barthat runs from one side of the roller to the other side of theroller,this bar locks the roller up in a collision or during severebraking,you can usually lift or rotate this bar and then pull thebelt out from there to then untangle the b…elt. . (MORE)
Make sure the plugs under the seat are connected. The seat belt stays locked if they are not
Try jiggling the steering wheel as you turn the key. Once the key is turned there is nothing left that locks the steering wheel so if you still cannot turn the wheel the problem is probably in the steering gear. Any halfway decent mechanic can repair it.
Depends on what the problem is. Unless you are skilled I highly suggest you have it repaired by a pro.
I found some great videos about this on youtube.. even if its not your specific model find one close and youll get the idea for sure
Car door locks can be repaired in many different places. Some places one can go for it are Manta, Tucson, Car Locksmith, etc. In addition, one can look for information about how to do it oneself.