Explain what you mean by "3-way outlet". I've heard of 3-way switches, but not 3-way outlets. I would guess the person asking the question is asking how to wire a three-prong socket, as opposed to a four-prong socket...
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized
IF YOU ARE NOT REALLY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
== == == == (LIFE SAFETY WARNING! [disclaimer]
Electricity is dangerous!
You can be injured or killed!
Improper installations can cause fire, injury and death!
Should you be doing this yourself?)
This is one of those questions - if you know this little, you shouldn't be doing what you are planning...
No disrespect intended, but this is SO basic that it suggests you have not studied the subject at all!
There are many good reference books and course books to study from.
<><><>
This is one of the most commonly asked questions in FAQ forums about electricity and wiring.
It must be understood that new appliances will be designed to meet the newest standards.
It is not reasonable to expect someone to rewire their home because they need a new dryer or range [stove]!
According to the NEC [National Electrical Code], it is now required to isolate the neutral conductor from the appliance frame or chassis.
It used to be allowable to use the neutral as a grounding means by incorporating a
link between the neutral and the chassis.
The problem with this is that, should the neutral become "open" at some point, the chassis or frame then becomes energized!
The answer to this safety issue was to require a separate grounding conductor in the cable feeding the appliance.
The NEC allows the replacement of the new four prong cord with a three prong cord for appliance replacements in existing installations only!
It is then required, when the cord is thusly replaced, to establish the frame grounding link from the chassis to the neutral.
<><><> Turn off the power! Disconnect grounding strap (or green wire) from chassis of dryer that leads to the common on the wire block on the back of the dryer. Then wire as follows: Red and black wires to their respective hot terminals on block on dryer.
White to common lug on block of dryer. Green to grounding strap or wire that is connected to the chassis of dryer (no longer attached to common on the wiring block.
ALWAYS CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL WIRING SAFETY OFFICE BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO CHANGE ANYTHING
- BREAKERS, CABLES OR OUTLETS -
ON ANY ELECTRICAL POWER CIRCUITS
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power
at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work
AND
always use an electricians test meter having metal-tipped probes
(not a simple proximity voltage indicator)
to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
You may or may not get lucky and receive some information in an answer here!
If you hope to get enough information on this site to be able to do this job properly and safely, please do not rely on getting accurate information about such a potentially dangerous subject.
Really, don't do this one yourself. Electricity is far too dangerous to handle if you have not been trained how to do this work. If you put just one wire in the wrong place you risk being killed by electrocution or you could even start a house fire.
How to do this job depends entirely on the Wiring Codes or Regulations for the locality (Town/State) and on the exact location of the outlet you wish to use. If it is anywhere that is subject to water splashes or spray - such as in any room supplied with running water pipes, like a kitchen, bathroom, shower room, etc., or in a pool-side area - in many places nowadays - including New York City - it is actually illegal to attempt to do this kind of work unless you are already a licensed electrician.
If you don't want to go to your local library or bookstore - to find and read some books about electrical wiring and appliances and how to install them safely, and to find out about your local Wiring Codes and Regulations - then the best advice anyone should give to you is to call a licensed electrician either to do the job for you or to advise you what you may be allowed to do yourself.
Note
Nowadays the voltages supplied to homes are nominally 120 volts and 240 volts + or - 10%. The actual variation from nominal at any instant in time will depend partly on the distance you are from the power station and partly on the overall load being drawn by the population using the same power service.
However many people still call their home voltages "110" volts and "220" volts and it really doesn't matter because the actual voltage you get could vary from 132 V down to 108 V in the case of the nominal 120 V, and from 264 V down to 216 V in the case of the nominal 240 V.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power
at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND
always use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes
(not a simple proximity voltage indicator)
to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
Not sure exactly what you're trying to hook up but to give you an example - if you have an electric dryer with a 3 prong cord and want to use a 4 prong receptacle, you would really have to change the cord to a 4 prong. In a 3 wire cord situation, the neutral and ground are bonded together. You have to separate the neutral and ground in the dryer itself.
Can you combine the black and red wire and connect it to the black wire from the house and have standard 110V service? Just take a little longer to cook?
Click the link.
You dont.
3 prong the 2 black wires are your hot and the braided is your neutral.
Well, maybe. What is the current rating on the spa circuit? What is the current rating on the welder? If the welder is larger than the outlet, then no. It must be the other way around. If the current ratings are OK, then yes. Your welder doesn't need 110V so it doesn't connext to neutral. Connect the hot leads to hot and ground to ground.
at your local hardware store go to the electrical dept, not the normal but the contractors area and you should find a 240v circuit breakers, fuses, junctions, wires and anything else you can think of!TucsonDirect
Its on the specifications of the device you will plug
Yes, you need a transformer
European wiring has two principal colour schemes: On appliances from the last 40 years, and recent fixed wiring: Live: Brown; Neutral: Blue; Earth: Green with yellow tracer On older appliances, and in older fixed wiring: Live: Red; Neutral: Black; Earth: Green OR Green with yellow tracer. Until you can satisfy yourself (beyond any doubt) as to which wires on your appliance relate to live, neutral and earth, you should NOT attempt to connect the appliance. Either check the manual or contact the manufacturer. Also, depending on the appliance, you need to consider that the US uses 60Hz alternating current whereas Europe uses 50Hz. This may or may not prevent the appliance working correctly.
I believe the rule of thumb is 10% either way and you have exceeded that.
The voltage isn't a problem, you can run 220 from your house and use that to run a European appliance, the problem is whether the appliance is dependant on line HZ. European is 50HZ and US is 60HZ. If the appliance specifies 220/50HZ, it will probably give you trouble here. If it says 220V/50 or 60HZ
No, unless it's a gas range. An electric range requires 240V and 40A while a small appliance will be 120V and Max 15A.
You will burn up your appliance!!!!!
To answer this type of question more information is needed. Click the discussion tab.
3 prong the 2 black wires are your hot and the braided is your neutral.
Well, maybe. What is the current rating on the spa circuit? What is the current rating on the welder? If the welder is larger than the outlet, then no. It must be the other way around. If the current ratings are OK, then yes. Your welder doesn't need 110V so it doesn't connext to neutral. Connect the hot leads to hot and ground to ground.
Have an electrician wire you a proper line for the appliance. You were just kidding about the 100A, right? 10, or 20amp, not 100.
yes.
at your local hardware store go to the electrical dept, not the normal but the contractors area and you should find a 240v circuit breakers, fuses, junctions, wires and anything else you can think of!TucsonDirect
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz supply service.No. Even though 240 volts uses two breakers it is still classed as a single phase service. Kirchhoff's law states that current entering a circuit is equal to current leaving the circuit. Since the appliance draws 10 amps, the whole circuit has 10 amps flowing through it.