There's no way of telling, as chain length is decided by frame size (=chain stay length) + driver + sprocket tooth count. Chains are always sold a few links too long, and are then cut to size when they're installed on the bike. If you're doing this yourself, get a chainbreaker tool. For what they cost, they can sure save you a lot of swearing.
Half links only come in two sizes, 1/8" and 3/32". Which one you need is determined by which chain you're running. Depending on which sprocket you had before a half link may not be enough.
There's no telling, as it would depend on the size of your frame. Chains are always bought too long, then cut to length on the bike.
The chain length needed is determined by chainring size, sprocket size and the design of your frame. There's no way of saying that you'll need from the sprocket alone. On top of that there isn't much to choose from when it comes to half links. They are all of the same length and in width there are two options 1/8" or 3/32". You need one the same width of your chain.
Half links only come in two sizes, 1/8" and 3/32". Which one you need is determined by which chain you're running. Depending on which sprocket you had before a half link may not be enough. On a bmx just make it fit, they tend to slack by half an inch to adjust while peddling back since they don not lock. Meassure until nearest like possible.
well if you have a 8 tooth rear driver you will need a 23t sprocket, if u have a 9 tooth rear driver you will need a 25t sprocket, if u have a 10 tooth rear driver you will need a 28t sprocket, and if you have a 11 tooth rear driver you will need a 30t sprocket
You need a chain meant for single-speed or internally geared bikes, cut to the right length.
the marks have to be pointing each other in the center of the gears
right in front of the crankshaft pulley beside the oil filter....is the timing chain cover(two timing chain...#1 on the crankshaft sprocket, #2 on the cam sprocket. Need to lower the engine to access the timing chain. Timing chain, not necessary to be replace, unless they broke loose.Other than that it remain with the life of the van.
The bent sprocket is guiding the chain diagonally causing it to be unparalleled with the front sprocket, you will either need to purchase a new rear sprocket or find a way to bend the rear one back straight
You can get a 9 tooth sprocket, you will need a conversion kit to do it. Haro makes a decent one just do a search for Haro 25/9
Answermake sure you line up the marks on the crank and cam and you should be fineDon't waste your time pulling the crank sprocket, get a large cold chisel and smack that baby one good time. The sprocket will split in half as its a lot softer material than the crank.
The easiest thing to do is see what MOM says, or the Motorcycle Operators Manual that comes with the GS500. It has all the information you need, but here is the gist. You need to find the half-way point between your front and rear sprocket on the chain, and mark the height of the chain. At this half-way point, your are basically looking to be able to push the chain up about 1 to 1.5 inches. If less then it's too tight, if more then it's too loose. So determine the difference of the chain height at rest compared to when you are pushing it up.
They do not. You'll need to go to a seperate business to rent a chain link fence.
A sprocket in bikespeak is the toothed wheel that the chain runs over/around at the the rear wheel and makes the bike go forward when you tension the chain. The bigger toothed wheel by pedals is called chainring, or sometimes chainwheel. The combo driver sprocket sounds a bit home cooked, usually there's no need to point it out like that. The only exception I can think of is on recumbents, which sometimes use an idler sprocket to deal with the long chains those bikes often end up using.