Fluorescent electronic ballasts have a voltage to amperage ratio chart on their face. Use this chart by selecting the voltage you are using and the corresponding amperage, then multiply the two numbers together for your wattage. Some fixtures come with more than one ballast, so you will need to take the wattage of all applicable ballasts for any given fixture to obtain the total wattage for the fixture.
On average the output voltage is 600 volts
No, the ballast's output is not matched to operate a fluorescent bulb.
The white wire on the supply side. There isn't a common on the output side of the ballast.
You don't. The output of a ballast is for one purpose only and that is to operate the lamp that is designed for that ballast. You should be careful with high output ballasts as they can draw enough milliamps to lock your muscles up if the current is shorted through you.
If the ballast on a fluorescent light blows the lamp will not work.
The exact results are not normally documented in manufacturer's literature, because they do not condone purposely mis-matching ballasts and lamps That being said, if both are RAPID-START there is a likelyhood that the lamp will light with this ballast. The light output may be less than normal and the ballast may have a premature failure. It's not going to explode. If you are deperate, help yourself, but I would always recommend a correct match...
No, the ballast's output is not matched to operate a fluorescent bulb.
The white wire on the supply side. There isn't a common on the output side of the ballast.
You don't. The output of a ballast is for one purpose only and that is to operate the lamp that is designed for that ballast. You should be careful with high output ballasts as they can draw enough milliamps to lock your muscles up if the current is shorted through you.
If the ballast on a fluorescent light blows the lamp will not work.
The exact results are not normally documented in manufacturer's literature, because they do not condone purposely mis-matching ballasts and lamps That being said, if both are RAPID-START there is a likelyhood that the lamp will light with this ballast. The light output may be less than normal and the ballast may have a premature failure. It's not going to explode. If you are deperate, help yourself, but I would always recommend a correct match...
yes..if we replace magnetic ballast with electronic ballast...there is no need of starter if we use electronic ballast.
need a universal voltage ballast 120/277 volt or a 277volt ballast
A T8 LED tube has to be used with a ballast to bring the correct voltage to the tube for it to operate correctly. Removing the ballast from the circuit will prevent the tube from operating.
One has to specify the size and therefore the watt usage of each type or the light output desired to compare them. Fluorescent tube lights range from 5 to 80 watts including losses in the ballast. Compact fluorescent bulbs range from 7 to over 30 watts in usage with the included ballast. LED's don't have nearly the same light output each, so you need a bunch of them to match output, but if matched use lower wattage because of low heat loss. Once you define the wattage, the total power is in watt-hours or kilowatt hours or some other conversion value.
A higher wattage HPS bulb may work with a ballast that is rated for a lower wattage bulb , but may appear to be dim and will not produce the rated light output. It is best to match ballast and bulb accordingly.
You have a failing bulb or ballast.
Over the years the light output of High Intensity Discharge lamps decline. Trying a different bulb would be the first and cheapest test. If you have another fixture around try transposing the lamps. If there is a photo cell on top of the unit check it for corrosion on the twist lock pins. Dimmer lamp output is also caused by a faulty ballast or capacitor. When a new ballast is purchased the capacitor comes with it. Look for spare parts at an electrical contractors yard you might get them for nothing.