5 amp fuses are usually 20 mm or 25 mm long and contain one strand of wire.
You need the formula: Amps * Volts = Watts But you get to do the math.
yes for continuous duty it must be at least 10% larger than the normal load they usually get you on water heaters that take 28 amps need to put those on a 40A with #8 wire not good on the 30A now if a motor rated fuse and nothing else will ever be on the circuit you can probably be correct with a 17 amp fuse and that is suitable for all the motor overload and locked rotor protection and it will provide 80 amps for starting
A couple of thing come into play here. If the fuse you found is 2.5 amps and the voltage is not higher that 125 volts, then it can be used if it fits in the fuse holder.
If you are operating on a standard 120 volt system, 1875 watts will draw 15.625 amps. A standard fuse or circuit breaker is 15 amps. You are drawing more current than the wiring was designed to provide. The breaker or fuse stops that before you burn down the house. You need a smaller dryer, or bigger wiring.
5 amps
Depends, there are fuses ranging from 5 amps up to 50 amps in use on the Neon.
You need the formula: Amps * Volts = Watts But you get to do the math.
All the wires coming out of the fuse box of your car are 12 volt. You need to put it on a fuse that has at least the minimum amperage that your TV calls for. I'm going to guess it will need at least 10 amps.
It depends greatly on your car. There should be a diagram on the fuse box, if none then check all fuses and replace with a fuse of the same amps.
The difference between fuses is the current that they are designed to support. A fuse is intended as a safety measure to protect against overload. A 3 amp fuse should burn out if more than 3 amps is run through it, with some allowance for standard variance. A 13 amp fuse would burn out with greater than 13 amps. It is always a bad idea to use a fuse bigger than you need, because if your component is designed for a 3 amp fuse and you use a 13 amp fuse, there is a good chance you could damage your component with too much amperage because the fuse would not burn out at 3 amps, as was intended.
Almost any size wire will handle the 4.2 amps. BUT...as with any wiring, you must look at the over current device to determine the proper size. You need to determine which fuse in the fuse panel protects that circuit and use a wire that is appropriate for that size fuse.
No, you would need at least 20 amps. But the fuse must match the wiring. A 20 amp fuse will require the use of AWG # 12 wire.
yes for continuous duty it must be at least 10% larger than the normal load they usually get you on water heaters that take 28 amps need to put those on a 40A with #8 wire not good on the 30A now if a motor rated fuse and nothing else will ever be on the circuit you can probably be correct with a 17 amp fuse and that is suitable for all the motor overload and locked rotor protection and it will provide 80 amps for starting
The formula you are looking for is Amps = Watts divided by Volts. Once you find the amperage you can decide as to the size of a fuse you should use. Remember that fusing protects the conductors of the circuit and not the load of the circuit. A #14 wire is rated at 15 amps and can legally be loaded only to 12 amps.
A couple of thing come into play here. If the fuse you found is 2.5 amps and the voltage is not higher that 125 volts, then it can be used if it fits in the fuse holder.
Well its not only the thikness of steel, but also the size of rod. Using the right size rods it should work with 120 amps. A good way to tell is if it is stiking a lot, you need more amps. If it is splatering to much or burning holes, then it is to much amps. Now if you are welding fine, but your rods are heating up 1 or 2 inches up, then you're rods are to small. Also if you don't have enough amps, you can heat the metal with a torch to help.
i do not know the size but the ampage is 10-25 amps