What would you like to do?
How soon after putting muriatic acid in your swimming pool can you swim?
Our pool guy comes in the early afternoon/late morning every Monday. I check the pool PH around 5 pm, and the readings are all right on.....so I would say five hours? That's our pool, though, I would get one of the PH testing kits you can get at pretty much any pool supply store.Hope this helps!Mrs. Gregory Our pool installer told us to wait 3 hours after adding acid to the pool. We use the liquid form, so I don't know if the wait time is different for other forms.
+ 8 others found this useful
Was this answer useful?
Thanks for the feedback!
About half hour if you are already circulating the water. k
It depnds on the amount, but a good rule of thumb is wait at minimum one hour before swimming. You pool water may contain "hot spots" that still have acid. If you swim… through one of those, well, you'll probably feel like replacing your eyes.
You can, but you run the risk of altering the pH of the pool water along with etching the cementuous material (other than the tile) that the acid might touch. The acid is co…rrosive, so be careful. I would suggest diluting the acid prior to using it as a cleanser. Use a product such as Scale-Be-Gone and you should get satisfactory results. Beware of glass bead blasting the tile as it damages the glaze on the tile and it will get scaled up faster than it did the first time.
When muriatic acid is added to the swimming pool how long do you have to wait before entering the water?
You can use it straight away it mixes very rapidly and if you swim in it it will mix even more quickly.
It can be used to remove rust stains caused by swarf or some metalic object lef laying in the pool. however if the rust is a result of reinforsement having come in cotac…t with the water No.
At least 5 hours .If you don't think its ready,wait 2 more hours.
Answer After you "shock" a pool with chlorine (a large amount to potentially kill anything that has been growing in there - bacteria from human waste, algae...),… you should at least wait 24 hours if it is a small pool. If you can still smell a very strong odor from the chlorine, stay out longer. Larger pools with large filtration systems (such as public pools) usually 2-3 hours is good.
Muriatic acid is toxic. You need to wait until all the water in your pool turns over and that depends on how many gallons your pool has and how strong your pump is. You are sa…fe by waiting at least 4 to 6 hours with the pump running. And remember: Only add a quarter of a gallon at a time and put it in the deep end of pool.
Yes, you are supposed to add it while there is water in the pool. Add with filter running near a return line. Add it slowly and if possible, brush the pool to help… mix the acid. You can swim within 30-60 minutes.
If you use it full strength on a plaster pool you will actually "etch" the plaster and weaken it, so you must dilute it with water. Start out weak with one part acid to four p…arts Muratic acid. If this has no effect try a mixture with fewer parts water. You want to err on the weak side, so as to not do damage to the underlying plaster surface. If the acid turns yellow and puts off a (sulfur smelling) cloud of fumes ( keep your distance from the fumes and always wear thick rubber gloves, rubber boots and eye protection) the reaction is probably too extreme. Keep a water hose handy to rinse the area off and stay out of the way of the draining acid/ water mix. Keep your acid spraying crew to a minimum, as you might accidentally spray another worker. The best set up would be one person sprays the acid mix from plastic spray bottles (buy some new clean ones at the store, because used ones may some residue which might react unpredictably with the acid.) and the other mans the hose and spray it off, once the first person is clear. We are working on a 28 year old plaster pool in Kansas.
Muriatic Acid is used to lower the pH in swimming pools. It's also used to lower alkalinity. But, there's a way to lower pH and really not touch the alkalinity, an…d vice versa. pH and alkalinity and opposite sides of the same coin and you need to know how to add the acid with minimal effect on the other side. www.clean-pool-and-spa.com give all the information you need
Muriatic acid is most commonly used in swimming pools to lower the swimming pools PH and to lower the pools alkalinity. You should use caution when working with muriatic aci…d. Not only can it stain your clothes, pool deck, etc, but if you inhale too much it can cause tissue damage. Always consult a professional when working with chemicals that you are not completely knowledgeable about, some swimming pool chemicals when mixed wrong can have a chemical reaction and catch on fire.
* You have two things that contribute to your high use of acid. The walls of your plaster pool actually absorb some of the acid over time as the walls continue to cure…. This is very common in new pools. You may see a reduction in the amount of acid after a few years. Also, the salt system you use has a high pH level which contributes to your heavy use of acid. * Though the previous post about new plaster pools absorbing acid for curing may be correct (I don't know about that), I do know that the pH also increases due to other factors as follows: 1) Since all pools use a carbonate buffering system that is out of equilibrium with CO2(g) in the atmosphere, they will all tend to increase in pH (if nothing else was done) as H2CO3 goes to CO2(g) and H2O (water). Total alkalinity does not change (decrease in CO3 equals decrease in 2H's back to water), though adding acid to restore pH will result in lower alkalinity so you'll also add sodium bicarbonate. If you do not have a pool cover and/or you have a waterfall that aerates the water, then you will increase the pH more quickly. 2) Use of a chlorine generator makes the water more basic (alkaline) as the formula for generation is Cl- + 2H20 --> H2(g) + HOCl + OH-. Every 1 ppm of chlorine added to your system results in an increase in pH of around 0.024 (assuming your pH is around 7.5, total alkalinity of 100, etc.) which isn't much, but if your chlorine demand (and production) is 1 ppm per day, then you'll have an increase in pH of 0.1 in 4 days. This effect was stated in the previous post: "the salt system you use has a high pH level." 3) Some (though not much) of the chlorine in your pool will get out-gassed via the following formula HOCl + Cl- --> Cl2(g) + OH- which has a similar effect as item #2 above in that a loss of 1 ppm results in a 0.024 pH increase. The only effects that counteract the above to make the water more acid are the oxidation of ammonia by chlorine (which returns HOCl to CL-, by the way) and the introduction of acids to the water from rain (remember "acid rain") or possibly refilling "tap" water (though usually such water is at least as alkaline as pool water) and of course other pool chemicals (I don't know what BioGuard Optimizer Plus is). By the way, your 1 gallon of muriatic acid every 3-4 days in 60,000 gallons of pool water decreases the pH by about 0.28 which still seems excessively high even accounting for the above. Perhaps your Total Alkalinity is too high since that would account for a faster pH increase (due to more carbonate in the water so faster out-gassing to CO2) and a greater resistance to changes in pH from adding acid (or base). Are you anywhere near the recommended 100 ppm Total Alkalinity? If you were at a Total Alkalinity of 100 ppm, then you would need to add about 5 cups of bicarbonate of soda after your gallon of acid, assuming you were going from a pH of 7.6 to 7.3. Does this sound like what you are doing? If so, then perhaps your chlorine demand is high (3 ppm per day). I'd like to add the following update: 1) The 1 ppm loss of chlorine to the air (HOCl + Cl- --> Cl2(g) + OH-) actually increases pH in a 16,000 gallon pool by 0.1, not 0.024 as I said earlier. So, if you are generating too much chlorine and have an uncovered pool, you might be losing lots of it to the air. 2) A friend of mine had a very high acid demand, just like your situation, but his ended up being a combination of excessive chlorine generation (see above) from running his pump 24 hours/day and from way too low alkalinity (65 ppm). The alkalinity will make the pH swing more quickly, but won't change overall acid demand (higher alkalinity slows pH swing, but you need to add more acid to lower pH the same amount). Once he increased total alkalinity (to around 140) and cut down his pump hours (to around 8), his pH stabilized. 3) If your water is out of balance with too low total alkalinity or calcium hardness, you could be corroding (etching) your pool plaster which will also tend to increase pH (and alkalinity) as Calcium Carbonate from your plaster dissolves into the pool water. My friend also had that situation as noted above. For a salt pool, you need to have more total alkalinity and/or calcium hardness to maintain water balance due to the higher Total Dissolved Solids (from the salt).
If you use acid you run the risk of the stuff turning yellow in the fairly near future Usualy grout only goes murky on the sulfate so the best thing to do is scrub it do…wn wit some thing like a stianless steel scrubbing pad (a stinker of a job) then after that is done and only if it is dry paint it with a clear silicone waterproofing sealant designed for grout or bricks to make your cleaning job last longer.
YES. USE ABOUT TWO PARTS WATER ONE PART ACID. LET THEM SOAK FOR A FEW HOURS THEN RINSE. Muriatic acid can be used to clean filters, HOWEVER there is a proper sequence to clean…ing the filters. I am asuming you are talking about cleaning either cartridge or DE filters. If muriatic acid is used first in the cleaning process you will set the oils permanently into the filter material and ruin the filters. You MUST remove the oils from the grids (cartridge and DE) first then rinse with water. Next you can use the muriatic/water solution (1:10), then rinse again. To remove the oils from the grids or cartridges you can use a a cleanser manufactured for this purpose that you can purchase from your local pool & spa supply store or you can can use a TSP & water solution. TSP can be purchased at your local hardware store. Cartridge filters can loose approx. 20% of their capability with every filter cleaning. It is important that the filters cartridges be replaced every so often. Steve Dunn Vice President - Sales Commercial Pool Systems, Inc. Note: A 20:1 ratio (water to acid) should be sufficient for most situations. Even at this strength, it takes a lot of material (e.g. baking soda) to neutralize the acid for safe disposal.
Answer There are 3 principal chemicals for lowering pH: muriatic acid, sodium bisulfate (dry acid) & CO2. If this is a commercial application then CO2 ma…y be a viable source. The sodium bisulfate is dry acid which when mixed with water makes liquid acid but does not have the odor. Muriatic acid and sodium bisulfate both lower total alkalinity at hte same time as lowering the pH. CO2 may raise total alkalinity at the same time as lowering pH. The total alkalinity is important to have a stable pH which in turn is important to have a relatively constant pH for the proper effectiveness of the sanitizer (chlorine) Any other questions feel free to email me direct. Steve Dunn Commmercial Pool Systems, Inc.