The ground, or earth, wire is a safety line. It is there in case something goes wrong. It does not have a supply, but instead connects to a grounding rod and your plubming. The idea is to create an alternate path for electricity in the event of a short. If something breaks in the switch and the metal casing goes live, the electricity now has two new paths to follow. One is the ground, the other is you. The ground is there to give the electiricy a low resistance path to ground so it doesn't pass to ground through you. Assuming you're talking about home light switch wiring? I'd be glad to send some diagrams of different types of switch wiring if that's what you're asking about. Send an e-mail to a_d_kirkwood@excite.com
It's on the gearbox, you need to get under the car to access it. It has a 3pin plug.
YES 2 Pin on 3.0 3pin on a 3.8
1pin wheel: near splashing daisies 2pin wheel:near the game scenic safari 3pin wheel:Front of stick stones and crafts! I hope this helped you!
Probably not because all UK appliances work on 240 v while in the USA they work on either 120 v or 240 v. You need to check which voltage your power inverter works at.
you could check for oil pressure , could be a fault in the oil pressure sensor that is holding the pump out. i have seen some of these trucks have a loose ground wire near the fuel pump also cutlikeabuffalo oil pressure? its not running yet!!! electric fuel pump has nothing to do with oil pressure before start-up. check for fuel supply to throttle body or rails. a fuel pressure test will determine sufficient supply,u could also just loosen a fitting to check for presence of fuel being pumped up to engine. restriction could also be due to clogged inline filter or blockage at pickup tube inside tank. This would more likely generate a rough running or low power condition , however it "should" still fire. Check for power to pump @ connector 3pin near driver side rear of truck wire loom going from frame rail to pump at top of fuel tank, yes it could be a poor ground. Ground wire from pump side of connector to frame. If no power work forward from there. Check breaker/ fuse/ relay and wiring. a point to point voltage drop test would be the best way to locate hidden resistance in the wiring , a break, short ,or corrosion. If good power and no fuel, either pump is not running, (u can usually hear it work when key is first turned on for a few seconds) or there is a restriction.
Probably the safest way, is to use an 'in line' plug and socket. This system will pull apart safely and cut power if you put too much strain on the cable. You can get these from the electrical section of DIY stores like 'B&Q' or 'Homebase'. It has a flat profile and three pin connection. You can buy a 3m length of flex cable at the same time. If the plug on the vac is moulded on, you will have to cut it off and buy a new plug. You have to make sure that the 'socket' part is the one connected to the extension lead and the plug part, with pins, is connected to the vacuum end of the wire. So that you can't touch live parts when the plug is pulled apart. Another way is is to buy a joint box, with a thin profile. Please, do not use block connector and insulating tape. The best way, is to totally replace the cable with a longer one. But this would require major dismantling of the vacuum cleaner. If you are asking this kind of question , then you are probably not capable of doing such work safely.