Is there any reason not duct the air intake from a natural gas furnace to the exterior you live in Wisconsin and it is a new install?
No, it is preferable to use outdoor air which is then expelled rather than blowing indoor air out so new cold air replaces it.
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Answer . \nThe pilot flame is/should be about 1.5" long, the diameter of a pencil. When the burners are going, the gas is shot into the burner manifold, and the gas sent to the burner is designed to go to the back of the heat exchanger. So, in a typical 80,000 input heater, about 14"-18" long.
When installing new central air in a single story ranch with no existing duct work should the duct work go in the attic or the basement if both are an option?
Answer . \nThe answer is that "it depends". If the attic isn't insulated, put it in the basement to save on heating/colling costs. If your basement has a tendency to get damp, put it in the attic or you'll risk blowing mold and mildew around in a few years. Whatever area you put it in, make s…ure the ducts are well insulated. (MORE)
You have an Airaid throttle body spacer on your 2004 Sport Track will it do any harm if you install an air intake system?
No, an aftermarket intake like K&N or Airaid will make your Trac run better. If the engine can breathe better it will run better. Get the better intake, and get a better exhaust. The truck will run much better.
Answer . There usually is a metering device in gas valves for accepting natural gas and propane. You need to find out if yours has that ability or just purchase a new one which is inexpensive and probably the right way to go and install the new valve. That is the only adjustment needed.
Use a compass to accurately draw the hole. Bore a hole thru the sheet metal big enough to allow pointed tin snips to start cutting. Follow the line with tin snips until the hole is completed.
Answer . that noise is a lose damper that is on the collar that conects that duct to the plenum. that duct goes into a big box. right before it goes in there is a collar. it may be taped up so feel for a wing nut under the tape.this nut controls a metal disc that controls the air flow through eac…h duct.that nut came lose you have to tighten it up and the noise will stop.. Answer. Another cause for the creaking could be as simple as the metal of the duct expanding with the heat and rubbing against a ceiling, floor stringer, stud or wall opening somewhere within the first 10-15 feet of where it comes off the furnace. This creaking is also a common problem with baseboard hot water heating systems where the copper pipes come up through the floors and creak as they heat and expand. To repair the problem, turn up your thermostat and then stand in the area of the furnace and wait for the creaking to start so you can see where it is happening. Then use a piece of mineral wool or other heat resistant material that is soft and non-abrasive to put between the duct and where it is making contact. (MORE)
Answer . Yes this could possibly become a problem.. LP gas and NATURAL gas have different properties, such as but's per cu ft, specific gravity and so on. Appliances are regulated differently for each, such as pressure and orifice sizing. A potential hazard is introduced when these properties ar…e not compensated for.. Although it is fairly easy to alter a FUEL GAS appliance from one gas to the other, some appliances may not be able to be altered. It is always a good idea to check the mfgr. listing and have an experienced/qualified person perform any modifications. (rememberâ¦ gas goesâ¦ BOOM). Some mfgr's do not allow modification outside of the factory at all, or at least require a qualified/trained technician to complete the modifications to maintain the listing.. SAFETY FIRST and ALWAYSâ¦. Hope this helps.. Terry (MORE)
Answer . \ntake and remove your stock intake and bolt ur new one up easy
It depends on model you have. If you buy something like AEM, the intake is usually a direct plug in. You take out factory one and replace it with the one you want. Cheaper ones are usually also easy to install, and do not require any modification.
Short answer... it depends!based on if you're using a kit or doing it yourself. if doing it yourself you need so kind of air scoop, such as a bonnet scoop. you then need to use PVC piping or hosing to direct the cold 'outside' air to your intake manifold.Best idea is to mount a bonnet scoop. form …a fiberglass mould that takes all the scooped air to a pod filter. then use PVC hosing to connect the pod filter to the intake manifold and you're done. how you do that exactly will depend on your car and engine.if you don't want a bonnet scoop you could just do a regular cold air intake system and relocate the pod filter to inside the guard underneath your headlight. then it'll get colder outside air without cutting a hold in your bonnet however you wont get the added advantage of air being forced down the bonnet scoop when you're driving at speed. this will still raise horsepower but you wont get the added advantage of the extra air being rammed down the scoop when you're driving at speed. (MORE)
Oil furnaces cannot be converted to gas - LP or natural - as they have totally different burners and have very different internal construction.
When you install a clod air intake on a 2001 Toyota Tacoma do you have to do any other adjustments to the engine?
After about 2 days of driving your ecu will adjust to the new parameters(more air). You may notice an increase in hp and tq but not the 15-20hp as some companies advertise to get your money. It's in addition to adding better gas and a less restrictive exhaust that you get decent gains for your mods.… (MORE)
Fairly easy. Unbolt the stock air filter and intake and bolt on the new on. This really is a "bolt on" application.
If you live in a colder climate where there is snow, you should check your outside air intake pipe to make sure it is not covered in snow. The pipe needs to be clear in order for it to be able to draw air into the house. This simple tip may save you big $ on a service call.
What holds the rubber air intake duct from the air filter box to the engine air intake on a Chevy Impala 2000?
A large radiator type clamp that unscrews to take it loose so the rubber intake hose can be taken off.
Sounds like it's cold where you are. The term is hoar frost.. Knock the frost off with the furnace turned off. Check the pipe where the furnace exausts. You may need to extend it a bit to keek it from recycling to the intake. If you extend it, insulate it also.. If it is caused by snowfall being s…ucked into the air intake, consider increasing the size of the pipe with a bell reducer. This in effect reduces the velocity of the air. In worst case situations I have used a "T" after the increaser and then two 90's pointing downward.. lc (MORE)
It is not waste.. The furnace has extracted the majority of the heat through the combustion process to the point of "condensation". Condensation= H2O.. lc
No... that would be underfiring it, causing the inside of the furnace to become a dangerous, sooty mess. If you are looking to save fuel I would say the proper way to go is to have a Manual J heat load calculation done on your home and then if indicated switch to a smaller or more efficient furnace.… Furnace size is indicated on the mfr`s unit tag as BTU Input (fuel required to produce stated output). The BTU Output rating is the rated Output after allowing for inefficiency losses (what is lost up the chimney). For example a furnace with an input rating of 100,000 BTU and an output rating of 80,000 BTU is an 80% efficient furnace. Supposing your Heat Load calculation says an 80,000 output is what you need, you can save by switching to a 90% efficient 90,000 Input furnace which will have an Output of 81000 BTU/hour (90,000 x 90%) same Output/less Input (fuel). Input is the fuel usage rating, ie Natural Gas provides 1000 BTU/hour per cubic foot used. Therefore with the 100,000 BTU/hour Input furnace, you will use 100 cubic feet of gas for every hour it is running, You can see this on your gas meter, First note the BTU input of your furnace from the tag, divide that # by 1000 (1000 BTU/hour per cubic ft) then divide the result by 60 (60 minutes in an hour) = X cubic feet. Then with the furnace being the only gas appliance in the house operating watch your meter for 60 seconds and if everything is operating properly the reading you get will equal X .Then do the math in reverse X times 60 times 1000 and you should have the Input # you started with. Now going back to the 100,000 80% furnace vs the 90% efficient furnace, it is easy to see one would save 10 cubic feet of gas per hour of run time by upgrading to the 90% or better. In my neck of the woods that equates to a savings of $1.28 for every 10 hours of run time. (MORE)
gas heating temp range from 120-140 degrees, electric heat strip is 110-125 degrees, heat pumps are 95-115 degrees
The adjustable air inlet at the end of each of the burner tubes near the fuel nozzle.
Could someone supply feedback that has purchased a trane XV95 gas furnace with a XL16i central air conditioning system. about the pros and cons and if they had to change the sizes of their duct work.?
I purchased the XV95 and XL16i with heatpump in early June 2009. So my experience is very limited. The old system's AC had needed a charge for the past 3 years running and this year the service company said that the system had leaked so low that they could put $400 of freon into it and it could all …be gone the next day... so I figured it was toast. While I can't yet speak to the heating... before the new system was installed the old system ran constantly and barely kept up. The new plant (mind you this summer has been one of the coolest ever in Ohio) cycles off and frequently I observe that it's cooling on "stage 1". The house is 19 years old and the duct work did not need to be changed. (MORE)
You don't. If the temp chances, the metal will expand and contract. There are tricks you can use: expansion joints and flexible corners that partly compensate.
i noticed a small bit of oil in my air intake duct as well, cleaned it out and haven't had an issue. it's nothing to worry about, but i'd probably say just a strange cavalier mystery
An intake air duct serves as a passage for supplying air to an engine, and includes a first intake air passage, a second intake air passage, an opening-and-closing valve, an interlocking member and a coiled spring. The opening-and-closing valve is disposed swingably in the second intake air passage …so as to open and close the second intake air passage (MORE)
I would be verycareful playing about with gas heaters without the appropriate knowledge. different types of gas heaters have different hardware associated with them. You run a definite risk of blowing your self or worse your family to kingdom come.
Most likely yes with the correct burner nozzles and replaement of the pressure regulator or gas valve.
Look at the tag on the inside of the furnace that denotes it`s capacity in btu per hour or btuh. Where it says Rated input which is what has to be put in (fuel) to get the Rated output (heat). That btu number can be anything from say 150,000 down to50,000 or even less. But that is the # you want, th…en divide that # by 1040 and that is your answer in cubic feet of gas used per hour of run time. Natural gas contains 1040 btu per cubic foot when burned so that is where that # came from. (MORE)
when installed new, natural gas is clean and SAFE. it has no known side effects and helps save the environment.
Buy the register, trace out the the hole for the part of it that will penetrate the duct, cut the hole and install the register then screw it in.
I use a hacksaw brace that allows the blade to fit in without attaching both ends like a conventional hacksaw brace. The open handled brace is available in most hardware stores. Put the blade in the brace with the teeth pointing down to the handle and your hand. This seems backwards but you'll cut o…n the pulling stroke. Attach some form of guide to the line that you want to cut. For example, drill a couple of holes in a metal ruler and attach the ruler to the line on the duct you want to cut. Attach the ruler using #8 sheet metal screws 5/8" long to the duct work. The purpose is to keep your line(s) straight and prevent the duct work from moving back and forth with the saw blade's action. Drill a 1/2" hole or larger in the duct along the ruler's edge. This is necessary to insert the hacksaw into the hole to start your cut. Here is an essential tip: Use a hacksaw blade with 24 teeth per inch. Don't use a more coarse blade like 18 or 22. Don't use a 32 teeth per inch unless it's a short cut or you don't mind sawing all afternoon. Here's an crucial point: Cut your line by dragging the blade downward toward you; don't push the blade back up like sawing wood, just pull the blade down and out and then reinsert the blade for your next cut. If you do this, the blade won't jam and bend out of shape besides cutting the duct more easily and quickly. Finally, be SURE TO WEAR safety glasses because the steel dust from cutting the duct will find its way into your eyes and cause a bunch of grief. (MORE)
Can the cold air return that was installed with a new hotwater furnace be removed without causing a safety issue?
I would say No if it was installed as part of the new boiler installation as you say, the installer must have thought it was necessary to provide the proper amount of combustion air.
How can I get my furnace fan to move more air. We had a new ac unit installed the HVAC tech said our ducting is too big for the house. You can barely feel air coming out?
I am continuing my question because they'll only allow it to be so long. Our house is only 1300 square feet but we live in a cookie cutter development where there are other houses 2600 square feet. So perhaps the contractor ordered one size ducting for all houses. I've been in the crawl space and at…tic inspecting the ducting for leaks with the fan on and have found none. The furnace does fine in the winter when it's heating though here in Western Washington it doesn't get that cold. I replace the filter about ever 3 months and have installed an attic fan to help out. However the AC never seems to keep up even when its only 75 degrees. Thank you. (MORE)
Would your gas mileage decrease because your computer cannot compensate for extra air flow from new cold air intake?
There is a theory that the cold air is actually bad for fuel economy It has to do with the idea of air density at different temperatures changing the energy loss from the compression of the intake charge. Basically at low throttle settings you will get better economy if the intake air is hot At high… power settings you will get better power and economy with cold dense air from you cold air intake. So under heavy work conditions the cold air intake helps, puttering around with no load its going to be worse. The Computer The computer will turn on the check engine light and set a code if it can't adjust to the change, so I discount this idea. (MORE)
Primary air is the air that mixes with the gas before the gas is burned.
If no major duct work involved, the price range is about $1,500 ~ $2,000 for basic models. If you want high efficiency and variable speed, it can easily cost you up to $3,000. Be cautious, only buy the functions and accessories matter to you. It's hard to get your investment even with a high effi…ciency furnace since current natural gas rate is pretty low. (MORE)
Why would a room finished after the house was built that is heated by a forced hot air natural gas furnace get air conditioning but not heat?
One possibility being that the air conditioner and furnace are separate so there may be duct/vents for one and not the other, if there is no duct/vent leading from the furnace to the room then the room wont be able to receive heat. Another possible cause is that there is a loss of heat on route f…rom the furnace to the room in question, this could be due to poor insulation or leaks in the junction of your ducts so cold air comes out as cold air and hot air also comes out as cold air. Also worth mentioning is that some older ducts have key toggles/dampers that you have to turn to direct the flow of air in different rooms, it is possible that the one that goes to the room in question is simply shut and thus blocking the air. (MORE)
The seal has gone bad. Never leave a C02 cartridge in an airgun after you finish shooting it. It will eventually ruin the seal. You can contact daisy Customer service (see the link below) and ask them for advise or repair.
Dryer exhaust can be to hot for a plastic type air conditioning duct. You should always use piping that is approved by the manufacturer of the dryer.
They are more energy efficient. you would have to pay more for gas furnace and they have a short life span.
No, an electric furnace does not need an outside air intake. For oil and gas furnaces an air supply is needed. It is called combustion air. It is needed for complete combustion of the fuel and not use the heated air that is in the house. Today's homes are built as a sealed unit to stop infiltration …air from leaking in and costing the home owner more money to heat the home. Many installations use a motorized damper that cuts off the air supply when the furnace is not operating. This prevents a draft through the vent from the outside of the house when other extracting devices are operating. (MORE)
No because the aftermarket air intake systems don't add anything to your car except a porous filter that sucks up more dirt than air and damages your engine
Quotes a few years ago for a coal fired furnace were around $7000. I'm sure it depends on your area and type of furnace. Shop around, and dont be afraid to deal for lower prices.
Catastrophic failure is the most likely result !! DO NOT TRY IT!! The basic design of furnaces are pretty much all the same...whether it is natural gas or propane. The MAJOR difference is in the size of the gas orifices used....to produce the desired burn rate. Propane gas has a higher btu rat…ing....due to the fact that it is highly compressed and condensed. Because of this....the burner orifice....which helps to regulate the amount of gas that is released for combustion....is very small....only allowing a very small amount of gas through...to be releases into the burners. Natural gas....has a much lower btu rating....and so it requires a higher volume of gas....to produce the same amount of heat. Therefore...the burner orifices are much larger...allowing a larger amount of gas to be released for combustion. So.....Trying to operate an LP or Propane gas furnace with a natural gas orifice in place...will result in a small weak sooty flame....producing very little heat....and will eventually clog the burn chamber with soot! Which could eventually lead to release of carbon monoxide into the living space...which could result in the death of all occupants! Trying to operate a Natural gas furnace....with propane....will result in a very LARGE amount of gas being released into the burn chamber!! When the furnace "lights'...the result will be very similar to a "home made bomb"! Depending upon the amount of gas that was released into the burn chamber prior to ignition.....this could mean a small explosion....blowing the covers off of the furnace...knocking pictures off the walls....possibly breaking a window or two...etc. If the furnace happens to be old enough that it does not have "smart board" technology....the amount of gas released could be sufficient enough to entirely destroy the house...most likely killing any and all occupants that may be inside at the time! My suggestion.....have a LICENSED gas furnace repairman.....inspect the furnace....and MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE....that it has the correct orifices needed....and that the furnace has been calibrated to burn SAFELY and EFFICIENTLY! This may cost you a bit of cash.....but can assure you that it will be MUCH MUCH cheaper....than paying for funerals and/or replacing the entire house ( assuming there are any survivors left to do so!! ) (MORE)
3.5 inches WC for a single stage furnace. 2 stage would be 1.75`` low fire and 3.5`` hi fire. For a modulating gas valve, follow the mfr`s set up instructions.
The furnace can be but it is not a good idea. Safety code requires a disconnect switch outside the area where the furnace is situated. This switch is used for an emergency shut down in case something electrically goes wrong with the furnace. In modern homes these furnaces are wired to a dedicated 12…0 volt circuit from the distribution panel. From the panel, the circuit is routed to the safety switch. From the safety switch, the circuit then continues to the furnace load. (MORE)
Mr Duct Heating and Air Conditioning, Air Ducts Done Right, Four Seasons Heating and Air Conditioning are all companies that are based in Chicago that install ducted air conditioners.
Natural gas furnaces work by combining natural gas with air and lighting it. This results in a flame that heats up the air and warms the rest of the house.
You can install ducted air conditioning in your home by firstly installing the ductal air systems in your home. After that, you can install the conditioning units on the outside, in order for your environment to be fully conditioned.
It is different in different states. You are dealing with 2separate codes here. HVAC & Electric codes. Contact both yourelectrical inspector and whoever inspects gas HVAC for a definiteanswer.
The distance is different in different states. Call your county building code office and ask the question.