What is the Break down the motor for a 2.0 95 ford contour?
In Ford Contour
Break downspeed until you reach the 5000 mile mark is 55 mph
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It is inside the same housing as the sunroof switch. Use a small bladed screwdriver to pry downwards in the very center of the front of the lamp - there's a small spring clip up there to press against. Once the front has been released, use the screwdriver to pry in the center of the backside o…f the lamp. With the lamp out of the way, you can now see 2 Phillips screws at the front of the cover - take those out, the entire cover comes loose from the headliner. DO NOT PULL AGAINST THE COVER - the plastic around the 2 mounting screws are very fragile and will break rather easily! NOTE: if you have a sunroof motor that is just clicking/grinding, this is a common failure of an internal plastic/nylon gear. See "Related Link" below for a source of the gear ($55!) - and a photo tutorial on getting at the motor and repairing it. (MORE)
How do you change the water pump in a '95 Ford Contour do you have to remove the motor mount or timing belt?
If you haven't gotten the answer to this question by now, see this link... contour.org For the V6 of this model year, it's relatively easy. Best to ensure the engine cannot be started by removing the battery ground cable first. While draining the coolant via the rad petcock (don't ask me how these …things get their names), remove the plastic cover over the front cylinder bank. The water pump should then be visble on the driver side of the block below the front head. It is driven by the front camshaft pulley and a belt that uses a small tensioner. You can release the belt tension by hand. The air filter housing cover and inlet that is attached to the air horn (on top of the engine) and anything connected to this assembly, must be removed. There are also a few small hoses, wiring connectors and other paraphenalia that will have to be disconnected. Make careful observations during dis-assembly and re-assembly. Sorry that my memory is a bit fuzzy on this part, but I recall that some of the pump mounting bolts are what are sometimes referred to as through-bolts (since they pass through something you usually don't want to disturb; in this case the pump housing attached to the block). I was careful not to disturb this housing too much; there may have been one or two bolts holding it in place that did not need to be disturbed. If that's the case, leave them alone and you should not need any other gaskets other than the one for the pump assembly. Always check your new parts for clues to dis-assembly and to confirm you have the right part for the job. Make sure all of the old gasket material has been scraped/sanded of of the block before installing your new or rebuilt pump. NOTE for other posters: Did you notice that the original poster didn't think to specify the engine he had? Try to provide as much useful info as possible when soliciting help. I posted "for the v6 of this model.." I forgot about having to remove the battery. This note is posted rather than edited because I don't believe in having to register on a web-site to offer assistance. (MORE)
i have a 1998 ford contour and as far as i know there is no fuse for the moon roof. check the wiring and see if you have power going to it. it could not have power going to it or maybe the ground wire isn't connected right. it is also possible that the motor for it is just broke and needs to be repl…aced. but i would stat by check for power going to it. its cheaper! (MORE)
Remove the trans pan and then the filter. If the pan is on the front of the transmission, it cannot be replaced without rebuilding the transmission; because the bearings must be removed in order to get to the filter. Ford Contour transmissions do not have removeable filters. There is a metal scree…n which generally never needs to be replaced. (MORE)
Answer . There is not an EGR valve on a Ford 2.0 DOHC engine. It was taken out when Ford engineers figured out they could retard the exhaust timing through the camshaft. They call it Variable Camshaft Timing. I just finished reading about it on a tech tip web site. The web address is:\nwww.as…ashop.org/autoinc/july2002/techtips.cfm. (MORE)
1-First you have to lift the right front of the vehicule and put it on a safe jack stand. 2-Remove the right front wheel. 3-Remove the plastic inner fender(2 bolts 10mm) 4-With a 13mm box end wrench turn the serpentine tensionner clock wise to loose the serpentine belt(easier with two people) 5-Usin…g a hydraulic Jake and a piece of wood,support the engine under the oil pan(enough pressure to hold the weight of the engine only,don't lift the entire car!) 6-Remove the upper engine mount(6x19mm nuts)Take it away. 7-Remove the top T-Belt cover(2x8mm bolts) 8-You can now remove the water pump pulley(8 mm bolts x 4) 9-With a 15 mm wrench, remove the foul pulley 10-Remove the middle T-Belt cover by removing the 8mm bolts 11-Unscrew the crank shaft pulley(18mm bolts) 12-Remove the lower cover of the T-Belt (8mm bolts) 13-Using a 17 mm wrench untight the T-Belt tensionner(you will need a 6mm Allen key to hold it when it will be time to tight the T-Belt tensionner back) 14-To make sure your timing marks are good you have to remove the valve cover.Once you're done,go to the camshaft end (driver side)put a metal ruler in the slut aligned with the top of the head.It will assure that you are at TDC of cylinder #1.The crankshaft timing mark is on the side of the oil pan(kind of a arrow).On the demper pulley, there are two timing marks,you have to use the one which is at the right.(When you face the demper pulley) For the rest, go from step 14 to step 1!!! Additional Information To Simon's excellent I would add the following information : REVISED TIMING BELT & TENSION SETUP ON 2.0L For the 1998-2000 Contour, Escort ZX2, 2000 Focus, 1998-2000 Mercury Mystique and 1999-2000 Mercury Cougar with 2.0L engine. Ford TSB 99-25-4 provides the following corrected information: To achieve proper timing belt tension on this engine, rotate the crankshaft clockwise so cylinder No. 1 is at top dead center. Once this has been done, Ford says the camshaft sprocket bolts should be loosened enough to permit the sprockets to turn freely on the camshafts. (I am not sure why). Then, install the camshaft alignment tool in the camshaft slots to hold the cams in place ( The Metal ruler or flat stock Simon mentions works good). 1. Back out the tensioner bolt four full turns and position the tensioner so the locating tab is at approximately the 4 o'clock position. Line up the hex key slot in the tensioner-adjusting washer with the pointer that is located behind the pulley. 2. Working counterclockwise from the crank sprocket, install the timing belt. 3. Rotate the tensioner locating tab counterclockwise and insert the locating tab into the slot in the rear timing cover. 4. Position the hex key slot in the tensioner-adjusting washer to the 4 o'clock position. 5. Tighten the attaching bolt enough to seat the tensioner firmly against the rear timing cover, but still allow the tensioner adjusting washer to be rotated using a 6 mm hex key. 6. Using the hex key, rotate the adjusting washer counterclockwise until the notch in the pointer is centered over the index line on the locating tab. (The pointer will move in a clockwise direction during adjustment). 7. While holding the adjusting washer in position, torque the attaching bolt to 18 lb-ft (25 N.m). Note: If the pointer does not remain centered over the index line during final tightening, loosen the bolt and repeat the procedure beginning with step 4. And finally, do not forget to lock-tight the cam bolts if you loosened them, and the crank balancer bolt. (MORE)
You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00
This happened to my daughter's car a few weeks ago. Ford sells new window regulators complete with the motor only - you cannot buy only the regulator portion. I found a good price from a dealer on the web - about $50 cheaper than my local Ford dealer. I am going to assume you already have the interi…or door panels, etc. removed. Unbolt the window motor and get it as close as possible to the opening in the door frame near the lower front of the door. Cut the two window regulator encased cables exiting the motor with heavy duty cutters or metal shears. If you have trouble cutting these cables, attempt to unbolt the motor from the regulator gear assembly. Inside you will find two gears and probably a very messed-up cable. Cut these cables. This will free the motor and gear assy. which can be removed after disconnecting the electrical connector. At this point, the window glass should also be free enough to slide up in the track to be unbolted from it's carrier. Once the glass is detached from the carrier, you should be able to lift & tilt it out of the top of the door. Continue with new window regulator replacement as usual. If you need additional help w/photos, I would recommend ChiltonsDIY.com for $20/year subscription. (MORE)
it would be to hard to replace the trans. in your vehicle,unless you have a lift,engine support and trans. jack.i would take it to a respectable dealership,or trans shop.
Hi, I have a 96 ford contour.. they all seem to have emission issues dont they? On mine, I just replaced the 2 it has. They are called upstream and downstream o2 sensors. I liked the prices from rockauto.com where they were shipped from.
I don't have a Contour, but if it has a distributor, then you use a timing light and simply twist the distributor cap to change the timing. If it has coil packs, then it's all done electronically, and you can't adjust it. If your timing is still off, you have a sensor somewhere feeding the ECU bad i…nfo. ====== All of the Contour engines' ignition timing is controlled by the computer, and is not adjustable. If there were any sort of problem in this area, the computer would turn on the "Check Engine" light and store an error code. (MORE)
Answer . \nthe dealer sell a complete assy that is easy to change .remove door pnl .remove buttons covering screws and cover at door handle to access screws ,there are a few along the bottom and fwd and aft door pnl.once you get to the motor assy there are 4 or 5 bolts that attach to the inner d…oor pnl . and there are 2 bolts that go through the glass with a plastic insert move the window up or down to access them through inner door skin holes remove bolts and inserts and glass is out then remove 2 more bolts at top of window motor assy and one wire connector remove through access hole (MORE)
Answer . Yes, there's a special tool that is inserted into the crankshaft during this procedure. See\n. \nhttp://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Ford-Cam-Positioning-Crankshaft-TDC-Timing-Pin.HTML\n. \nIf he forgot to remove the tool before he started the engine, it will do damage to the crank…shaft. (MORE)
You remove the heater blower by removing the bottom cover of the Glove Compartment. Then you will see The heater blower housing. Then you will see like a black clip you need to lift. Then You simply turn clockwise and bingo its off. To install just do the same thing except in reverse mode.. Good Lu…ck!! (MORE)
mite be a relay switch--inside a plastic box, maybe passenger side of the firewall under the hood.
Answer . \nAs this was the year of the switch, it can have either. There should be a sticker somewhere on the unit listing what it has. Any A/C professional can tell you.
Answer . \nMany things could be wrong,\n. \n1. Bad thermostat ( 1 fix )\n. \n2. Radiator fan not coming on (Bad fan, bad relay, bad sensor, or no power)\n. \n3. Water pump bad ( 1 fix ) \n. \n4. Bad head gasket ( expensive fix )\n. \n5. Cracked head ( OH NO REAL expensive )\n. \n6.… Cracked block ( need a ride to go car huntin? ) (MORE)
Yes & No . \nYou may be able to reuse them with not adverse effects if you make sure the threads are clean and not deformed. However many engines today use "torque-to-yield" (TTY) head bolts that stretch slightly when installed. This provides more even head loading and allows the bolts to hold to…rque better for improved head gasket sealing.\n. \nWhen the bolts are installed, they're first tightened to a specific torque - then tightened an additional amount that's measured in degrees of rotation. This final twist stretches the bolts to their yield point and creates the elastic clamping force that provides more even loading across the head and gasket.\n. \nBecause TTY head bolts stretch slightly (only a few thousandths of an inch), some auto makers say they should not be reused when the cylinder head is removed. Reusing TTY bolts will cause them to stretch further, which increases the risk of breakage. A stretched bolt also will not hold the same torque load as before, which may cause a loss of clamping force resulting in head gasket leakage. The best insurance may be to replace all TTY bolts when rebuilding and reinstalling a cylinder head with new head bolts. So if your engine uses TTY bolts, replace them. Be sure and torque to the correct setting and in the proper sequence. (MORE)
Answer . \nThere is no bottom head gasket. There is just a head gasket. One gasket for each head. The intake and exhaust manifold must be removed. Then the head is removed. This is a major repair, requiring skill, knowledge, and the proper tools. Take it to a professional.
Where is the throttle positioning sensor located on a 1995 ford contour with a 2.0 4 cylinder motor?
Answer . \nThrottel sensor is on the intake where the intake hose hooks to the intake, usually on the firewall side.
Answer . \nauto shutt out relay supply power to one of the wire and engine control module sends pulse to the other wire,first check power with ignition key on if ok,then there is problem in ecm or crank shaft position sensor ,,good luck
check out this link, should be located under the passenger side dash, on the motor housing. On our '98 contour, it was white with a wire connection and one torx screw.. http://www.chicagoceg.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=search&cat=0&pos=1 . In 1999, Ford had a recall program. In some of the …affected vehicles, the blower switch or resistor may develop increased resistance which could potentially prevent the blower from operating on some speeds. AFFECTED VEHICLES Certain 1995 through 1998 model year Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique vehicles built from July 1, 1995 through December 31, 1997. Go to http://www.fordcontour.org/recalls/99m07.htm for a complete description of replacement and parts. As a note, I only replaced the resistor and blower switch and not the pigtails. I assume they'll go out again but it was only $15 for the switch and $40 for the resistor from autozone or checker auto vs. $90 for everything from a Ford Dealer. (MORE)
Answer . Check your radiator and make sure it has coolant in it. Thermostat might also be stuck.
The power steering reservoir is located under the hood in thisapplication. The power steering reservoir will be marked with aremovable cap having the symbol of a steering wheel on it. It willbe accessible directly from the top of the engine area without anyspecial tools necessary to check the fill l…evel. (MORE)
No, there is only 1 that I know of.. It is located just low of the # 4 spark plug, adjacent to the coil. It's located inside the only hose going into the motor in that area.
I just replaced mine on a 1998 contour 2.2 4cyl. Take the right passenger wheel off , follow the axle until it goes into the transmission (below starter motor), then look towards rear of car/axle 3 inches, look up and it there. One 8mm bolt holds it in. Twist it out, disconnect the wire from the top… engine compartment. A speedo gear pulls out of the VSS. You can buy a VSS without the sppedo gear and housing cause you can screw the old housing in the new one. Vss is around $50. (MORE)
According to my Haynes Manual it should be a 15A fuse No. 27 in the passenger compartment main fuse box. bigtomato
Connect the sunroof motor with the sunroof motor retaining bolts.Connect the sunroof linkage. Connect the wiring harness to the backof the sunroof motor.
The neutral safety switch on a 95 ford contour is on the driversside of the transmission. It is a black box where the shift linkageconnects.
Ford stopped using carburators sometime in the early to mid 80's. The 95 fords were all fuel injected, no carb required.
Piston #1 (passenger side) to Top Dead Center (TDC). You have to remove the valve cover. On the end of the cam shafts (driver side) there is a groove (line) cut into them. This line should matchacross the top of the head. I use an old carpenters square, lay it across the head and align the cam groov…es till the square falls into the grooves. Put the belt on it and it should be in time. You may have to loosen the cam sprocket bolts (passenger side, Torx) to get the belt to line up perfectly, but it should not need to be extremely accurate. Tighten the tension pulley. Spin the engine around twice or trice, then re check tension. CAUTION: the 2.0L engine is an interference motor, if the belt breaks or the engine spins with the cams out of alignment the pistons can come up and hit and bend or break the valves!! Also all three idler pulleys should be replaced when changing the timing belt, i did this the hard way and had to do the whole thing again after two weeks, fortunately i didn't hurt the valves. (MORE)
you put it in the same place your trans dipstick is, by the brake fluid container below it, it gas a yellow handle
You have to remove the motor mount And timing cover,right side splash shield. it better to buy a book and read chapter 2a
It could have either the 2.0 L - DOHC - 4 cylinder engine or the 2.5 L - DOHC - V6 engine Contours were available with either the 4-cylinder engine or the V6 throughout their manufacturing life. The 4-cylinder was the "Zetec" 2.0-liter, dual-overhead cam engine rated at 125 hp. The only real issue… this engine had was the plastic thermostat housing on earlier models. The lip that retained the o-ring used to seal it would crack, allowing leaks. Later engines had an improved (still plastic) housing. Other than that, it has proven to be a pretty decent engine. The V6 was the "Duratec 25", also DOHC, and was rated at 170 hp for the GL, LX and SE models, and 190 or 200 hp(depending on year) for the SVT option. This engine was very good, and was rated as one of the "10 Best Engines" for 1995 by Ward's AutoWorld Magazine. (MORE)
Unless you are very mechanically inclined, this is a tough job for a backyard mechanic . Unlike most vehicles, the engine and transmission come out under the car. . The space is quite tight to disconnect everything up top before going down under and it is a pain. . Bolts rusted on, front end part…s not separating without a fight. . I just did mine (V6 2.5) and would recommend not trying it at home. . Shops are an expensive alternative so is the car worth it to you?? . Mine had a blown head gasket and that's why I bought it (cheap) but shopping around for the repair led me to replace the engine instead. I now have a sharp car with no rust and the engine I bought for it has 93,000 km. so the car should last me quite some time but I still have a 12 year old car... (MORE)
4.5 quarts ( 4.25 liters ) WITH ENGINE OIL FILTER CHANGE , according to the owners manual
Yes , according to the Gates website ( they make timing belts etc. ) it is NOT an interference engine
Ford recommends 5W30 full synthetic for all of their modern engines. The 2.5L V6 engine takes between 5.5 and 6 quarts of oil, while the Zetec takes 4.5 quarts.
For a 1998 Ford Contour ( in North America ) Either the 2.0 L four cylinder or the 2.5 L , V6 engine
With extreme prejudice. Seriously, you have to hate. The entire drivetrain and suspension have to come off. You need a compressor and an air hammer. If you see a thing, take it off. If you want a short-cut that's back yard friendly, just take off the brake caliper and caliper bracket, should be a t…orx bit, forgot the size, maybe a T25 and 17mm, then remove the brake rotor. Unbolt the outer tie rod end and take it out of the suspension knuckle. Now you have two choices: you can either remove the strut and unbolt the lower ball joint from the suspension knuckle, which will require an impact gun for the strut tower nut and will also require removing the cv axle, which takes a 32mm socket for the axle nut, or you can just try to pry the ball joint out of the suspension knuckle and air chisel it out. The second option is probably what you'll need to do if you don't have a cavalcade of tools. But you still need an air compressor and an air hammer. You can try drilling out the studs that hold the lower ball joint in, but I wouldn't recommend it. Oh, you will need a T45 for the lower ball joint bolt. Only Ford. I want a car held together with bubble gum and hope over greedy engineering. Good luck. (MORE)
According to the 1998 Ford Contour Owner Guide ( 5W-30 ) With engine oil filter change : The 2.0 litre four cylinder takes ( 4.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 ) The 2.5 V6 ( 5.8 quarts )
According to the 1997 Ford Contour Owner Guide ( 5W-30 ) With engine oil filter change : The 2.0 liter four cylinder takes ( 4.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 ) The 2.5 liter V6 takes ( 5.5 quarts )
All Ford Contours (and its Mercury equivalent, the Mystique) came with either a 4-cylinder 2.0 liter engine, or a 2.5 liter V6. In 1998, these engines were rated at 125 hp. for the 4-cylinder, and either 170 hp for the "standard" Duratec V6, or 195 hp for the SVT version.
No , it is NOT an interference engine ( according to the Gates website )
on the 2.0 L, standing in front of the car, you can see it under the exhaust manifold. Looking at it, it will be on the right side (rear) of engine located in middle.
i put timing sensor on car chand water pump and it turning but want crank is it easy to ben a valve
It could be either a bad fuel filter or fuel pump or it could be bad spark plugs or cap and rotor or spark plug wires
The only reason the timing would have jumped is if the belt has lost some teeth which it will do right before it breaks. The timing belt should be replaced before the car is driven or the motor started again. If the belt breaks while the engine is running, it can cause major damage to the head and p…ossibly the block. (MORE)
It's inside the fuel tank. You can get at it by removing the rear seat. You'll need to relieve the fuel pressure in the line to the engine before you disconnect it. Unless you're pretty experienced, you'll want to leave this to the pros.