What is the Break down the motor for a 2.0 95 ford contour?
Break downspeed until you reach the 5000 mile mark is 55 mph
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How do you change the water pump in a '95 Ford Contour do you have to remove the motor mount or timing belt?
If you haven't gotten the answer to this question by now, see this link... contour.org For the V6 of this model year, it's relatively easy. Best to ensure the engine cannot b…e started by removing the battery ground cable first. While draining the coolant via the rad petcock (don't ask me how these things get their names), remove the plastic cover over the front cylinder bank. The water pump should then be visble on the driver side of the block below the front head. It is driven by the front camshaft pulley and a belt that uses a small tensioner. You can release the belt tension by hand. The air filter housing cover and inlet that is attached to the air horn (on top of the engine) and anything connected to this assembly, must be removed. There are also a few small hoses, wiring connectors and other paraphenalia that will have to be disconnected. Make careful observations during dis-assembly and re-assembly. Sorry that my memory is a bit fuzzy on this part, but I recall that some of the pump mounting bolts are what are sometimes referred to as through-bolts (since they pass through something you usually don't want to disturb; in this case the pump housing attached to the block). I was careful not to disturb this housing too much; there may have been one or two bolts holding it in place that did not need to be disturbed. If that's the case, leave them alone and you should not need any other gaskets other than the one for the pump assembly. Always check your new parts for clues to dis-assembly and to confirm you have the right part for the job. Make sure all of the old gasket material has been scraped/sanded of of the block before installing your new or rebuilt pump. NOTE for other posters: Did you notice that the original poster didn't think to specify the engine he had? Try to provide as much useful info as possible when soliciting help. I posted "for the v6 of this model.." I forgot about having to remove the battery. This note is posted rather than edited because I don't believe in having to register on a web-site to offer assistance.
I don't have a Contour, but if it has a distributor, then you use a timing light and simply twist the distributor cap to change the timing. If it has coil packs, then it's all… done electronically, and you can't adjust it. If your timing is still off, you have a sensor somewhere feeding the ECU bad info. ====== All of the Contour engines' ignition timing is controlled by the computer, and is not adjustable. If there were any sort of problem in this area, the computer would turn on the "Check Engine" light and store an error code.
Answer . Yes, there's a special tool that is inserted into the crankshaft during this procedure. See\n. \nhttp://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Ford-Cam-Positioning-Cran…kshaft-TDC-Timing-Pin.HTML\n. \nIf he forgot to remove the tool before he started the engine, it will do damage to the crankshaft.
Answer . 37 (30A) in the passenger compartment (not under the hood)
Answer . \nMany things could be wrong,\n. \n1. Bad thermostat ( 1 fix )\n. \n2. Radiator fan not coming on (Bad fan, bad relay, bad sensor, or no power)\n. \n3. Wat…er pump bad ( 1 fix ) \n. \n4. Bad head gasket ( expensive fix )\n. \n5. Cracked head ( OH NO REAL expensive )\n. \n6. Cracked block ( need a ride to go car huntin? )
Yes & No . \nYou may be able to reuse them with not adverse effects if you make sure the threads are clean and not deformed. However many engines today use "torque-to-yield…" (TTY) head bolts that stretch slightly when installed. This provides more even head loading and allows the bolts to hold torque better for improved head gasket sealing.\n. \nWhen the bolts are installed, they're first tightened to a specific torque - then tightened an additional amount that's measured in degrees of rotation. This final twist stretches the bolts to their yield point and creates the elastic clamping force that provides more even loading across the head and gasket.\n. \nBecause TTY head bolts stretch slightly (only a few thousandths of an inch), some auto makers say they should not be reused when the cylinder head is removed. Reusing TTY bolts will cause them to stretch further, which increases the risk of breakage. A stretched bolt also will not hold the same torque load as before, which may cause a loss of clamping force resulting in head gasket leakage. The best insurance may be to replace all TTY bolts when rebuilding and reinstalling a cylinder head with new head bolts. So if your engine uses TTY bolts, replace them. Be sure and torque to the correct setting and in the proper sequence.
Where is the throttle positioning sensor located on a 1995 ford contour with a 2.0 4 cylinder motor?
Answer . \nThrottel sensor is on the intake where the intake hose hooks to the intake, usually on the firewall side.
Connect the sunroof motor with the sunroof motor retaining bolts.Connect the sunroof linkage. Connect the wiring harness to the backof the sunroof motor.
Ford stopped using carburators sometime in the early to mid 80's. The 95 fords were all fuel injected, no carb required.
Piston #1 (passenger side) to Top Dead Center (TDC). You have to remove the valve cover. On the end of the cam shafts (driver side) there is a groove (line) cut into them. Thi…s line should matchacross the top of the head. I use an old carpenters square, lay it across the head and align the cam grooves till the square falls into the grooves. Put the belt on it and it should be in time. You may have to loosen the cam sprocket bolts (passenger side, Torx) to get the belt to line up perfectly, but it should not need to be extremely accurate. Tighten the tension pulley. Spin the engine around twice or trice, then re check tension. CAUTION: the 2.0L engine is an interference motor, if the belt breaks or the engine spins with the cams out of alignment the pistons can come up and hit and bend or break the valves!! Also all three idler pulleys should be replaced when changing the timing belt, i did this the hard way and had to do the whole thing again after two weeks, fortunately i didn't hurt the valves.
It could have either the 2.0 L - DOHC - 4 cylinder engine or the 2.5 L - DOHC - V6 engine Contours were available with either the 4-cylinder engine or the V6 throughout thei…r manufacturing life. The 4-cylinder was the "Zetec" 2.0-liter, dual-overhead cam engine rated at 125 hp. The only real issue this engine had was the plastic thermostat housing on earlier models. The lip that retained the o-ring used to seal it would crack, allowing leaks. Later engines had an improved (still plastic) housing. Other than that, it has proven to be a pretty decent engine. The V6 was the "Duratec 25", also DOHC, and was rated at 170 hp for the GL, LX and SE models, and 190 or 200 hp(depending on year) for the SVT option. This engine was very good, and was rated as one of the "10 Best Engines" for 1995 by Ward's AutoWorld Magazine.
Ford recommends 5W30 full synthetic for all of their modern engines. The 2.5L V6 engine takes between 5.5 and 6 quarts of oil, while the Zetec takes 4.5 quarts.
Your windshield washer fluid on 95 ford contour is full and motor works but no fluid will come out on windshield?
check for blockage in the lines.
on the 2.0 L, standing in front of the car, you can see it under the exhaust manifold. Looking at it, it will be on the right side (rear) of engine located in middle.
The ignition timing is controlled by the ECU, and is not adjustable.
In Fuel Filters
It's inside the fuel tank. You can get at it by removing the rear seat. You'll need to relieve the fuel pressure in the line to the engine before you disconnect it. Unless you…'re pretty experienced, you'll want to leave this to the pros.