What tools are needed to change brake pads on a 1998 Chevy Monte Carlo?
ratchet or socket
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Jacklug-wrenchwrenches1"X2" boardC-clampNew Brake Pads Answer Its a 7mm Allen wrench to remove the two caliper pins. Answer If you are also doing the rears (disc only) you will need the special ford caliper tool, turns and pushes the plunger at the same time. if you put a C clamp on the rears… you will destroy the caliper, and they arent cheap ;) (MORE)
After getting the tire off. There sould be only two bolts that hold on the brake caliper. They could be a special bolt on some years. It could be star bolts that need to have star bits to take em off. Autozone has them for around 6 bucks a set. T20 T30 T40 T50 etc. I just changed the front brake p…ads on my 2003 Cavalier and the bolds were not the star bits but a 3/8" hex bit. 2001 Cavalier is also 3/8 hex. You'll need a socket type one...it would take forever using an Allen wrench. Also make sure you use a pry bar or screwdriver to push back the brake caliper before removing the bolts...much easier that way. (MORE)
Hi there Just for information purposes, the braking system is the same on all Monte's from 1995 to 2001. If you go to the answers for how to repair brakes for any of these model years, the info will be the same for a '95.
Though the brakes themselves aren't that complex, but due to the problems you could have with the system afterwards, you need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.
If your not used to working with antilock/traction control vehicles, you may want to leave this job to a professional. There are some things that you need to be aware of before proceeding with the job. But, if you decide to go on with this, You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and… get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library. You will need: Jack, jackstands, various wrenches or socket set, new brake pads, c-clamp I usually do one side at a time. Jack the car up safely. Put the car on jackstands. Take the wheel off. Loosen the two caliper bolts. Pull the caliper off, and remove the old pads. Make sure you DONT let the caliper hang by the brake cable set it up behind the knuckle or get something to support it with. Use a large C-clamp to push the piston back in. Install the new pads on the caliper. Put the caliper back on, tighten the bolts down. Replace the wheel. Move on to the other side. Repeat procedure. Check brakes before going anywhere! (MORE)
WELL YOU START BY LOOSENING THE LUG NUTS...BUT NOT TO LOOSE SO AS NOT TO DROP THE CAR;BUT TO BE ABLE TO TAKE THEM OFF WHEN THE CAR IS ON THE JACK WITHOUT SPINING THE TIRE. THEN YOU JACK THE CAR UP AND REMEMBER TO PUT CHOKES BEHIND THE REAR TIRES AND THE RIM UNDER THE FRAME OF THE CAR IN CASE IT FALL…S OFF THE JACK. OK THEN YOU HAVE TO LOCATE TWO BOLTS ON THE INSIDE OF THE CALIPER FACING THE MOTOR OR TRANSMISSION DEPENDING ON THE SIDE YOU ARE WORKING ON;ALSO THEY ARE THE SMALLER ONES, I THINK LIKE 10MM OR 12MM I DONT REMEMBER ..... ONE ON THE BOTTOM AND ONE ON THE TOP...AND ALSO REMEMBER TO USE YOUR JUDGEMENT TO LOCATE WHERE THOSE 2 BOLTS ARE..THE BEST WAY TO DO THAT IS TO LOOK FOR WHERE YOU CAN TAKE THE CALIPER OFF WITHOUT TAKING OFF THE REST OF THE BRAKING SYSTEM...WHEN U TAKE THEM BOLTS OFF REALLY THATS IT TO TAKE OFF THE CALIPER...THE CALIPER WILL ONLY BE HELD ON BY THE CYLINDER SO THEN GET LIKE A PRY BAR OR LONG FLATHEAD THAT IS STRONG,AND PRY IT OFF THE ROTOR. OK NOW YOU ARE READY TAKE THE OLD BRAKE PADS OFF AND TO USE A C-CLAMP TO PUSH THE CYLINDER IN; WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO IS PUT ONE OF THE OLD BRAKE PADS INFRONT OF THE CYLINDER SO AS TO PUSH IT IN EVENLY-THEN JUST TURN THE HANDLE ON THE C-CLAMP UNTILL THE CYLINDER IS FAR ENOUGH IN TO PUT THE NEW BRAKE PADS ON AND PUT THE CALIPER ON WITH OUT A PROBLEM. NOW REMEMBER ALSO TO PUSH THE SLIDES IN WHERE YOU BOLT IT BACK ON AND JUST SLIDE THE CALIPER IN PLACE.. WELL THEN SCREW THE BOLTS BACK INTO THE SLIDES AND THE CALIPER AND BRAKE PADS ARE NOW IN PLACE..NOW JUST MAKE SURE EVERY THING IS TIGHT AND RIGHT; AND GO AHEAD AND PUT THE TIRE BACK ON AND DO THE OTHER SIDE THE SAME WAY. (MORE)
Take tire off. Loosen two stud bolts on back of caliper...top and bottom. Remove caliper. Remove old brake pads. Install new pads. Remove cap on Master Cylinder reservoir and push the cylinder back in. I use a C-clamp to do this. Re-install caliper and tighten the two bolts. Re-install tire. Refill …Cylinder with new fluid and replace cap. You should always check to see if there are any grooves worn in the rotors or drums when replacing brake pads. If there are signs of wear, have the rotors or drums turned to smooth them out for better braking and longer pad life. If you do not do this, the new pad will wear faster because the high spots of the grooves in the rotors will wear down the pads until they match the grooves in the rotors. They will wear pretty normally after that, but you will have lost some life off the pads at the beginning. (MORE)
Generally for any car you will need your jack and tire iron, you will probably also need a 10mm open end wrench or socket, I can't remember the name of the other tool commonly needed, a star bit is what I have known them as, it may be needed, a large one. You may want to use a flat head screwdriver …to pop off the old pads, and will need a c-clamp. The c-clamp is used with one of the old pads to push the brake cylinder(s) back to the down position. That should be all the tools you need, I have never worked on a Bonneville but this seems to be the make-up of Pontiacs. I hope I have been of some help Just did front brakes on a 94 Bonneville. You NEED a 3/8 Allen/socket...They are hard to find but a regular Allen wrench is NOT long enough. These fit on a 3/8 socket wrench and it is HARD to brake them. Drivers side goes up. I just replaced the caliper on this car. This will be the only time you use this socket for sure. (MORE)
You need to purchase a Haynes Manual that is specific to your car. They can be bought at a parts store or bookstore. You will need: Jack, jackstands, various wrenches or socket set, new brake pads, c-clamp I usually do one side at a time. Jack the car up safely. Put the car on jackstands. Take the …wheel off. Loosen the two caliper bolts. Pull the caliper off, and remove the old pads. Make sure you DONT let the caliper hang by the brake cable set it up behind the knuckle or get something to support it with. Use a large C-clamp to push the piston back in. Install the new pads on the caliper. Put the caliper back on, tighten the bolts down. Replace the wheel. Move on to the other side. Repeat procedure. Check brakes before going anywhere! (MORE)
Answer . basic tools are all that are needed its a simple job.. Answer . They are disc type brakes.If you can do the front, then you can do the rear.
2003 procedures may help . I have a 2003 venture van. The answer below pertains to it. I hope this will help with your 1998.\n. \nChanging the brake pads and rotors on a Venture van are more simple than some vehicles. First you have to jack up the front end of the vehicle and remove the 2 front …wheels. I suggest that you work on one side at a time so that you can use the other as a reference if you find yourself in a jam. When you take a close look at the calipers and rotors you will notice there are 4 screws on the calipers. You can remove the entire caliper at once if you remove only the two screws that hold the entire caliper onto the vehicle. The other two screws hold the caliper together. Pay close attention how the pads are in as you begin to remove them so that you can replace the new ones correctly. Really they only slide in and out, but the two pads differ from each other and you want to be sure that you put the new ones in correctly. \n. \nIf it is an ABS system, be sure to clamp off the hydraulic hose with a hose clamp and remove it from the caliper before pressing the piston in. This will prevent "junk" from getting pushed into the hydraulic line. Use either a C-clamp or a special tool called a Piston press to push the piston back in to it's bore. \n. \nThe rotor will come off of the lug bolts after the caliper has been removed. There are no other bolts holding it on. If you have never done this type of work before you really should get someone that is experienced to help you because brakes aren't something you really want to take chances with. (MORE)
Answer . \nOn my 1990 Buick Regal, I need an 18mm wrench , a 10mm wrench, screwdriver,\njack, and a can of brake cleaner
\n. \n Answer \n. \n. \nflat screwdriver,a malot, and a piston compression tool or a c- clamp what you have for availability.\nFour wheel drive hubs require a large socket available from parts stores, you'll need snap ring pliers, some type of pick to get the parts out. You'll have to drive… out the wheel bolts from the hub/rotor. Make sure you keep every thing in the order it came off. Also, locktite the caliper bolts. Fords have a bad habit of these bolts backing out. (MORE)
Answer . \nAll you need is a screwdriver and a hammer.You just knock out the two pins on the caliper,change the pads and tap the pins back in.
Answer . \nTo change your brake pads check out the following website for step by step instructions.\n. \nhttp://www.oqcgp.com/forum/kb.php?mode=article&k=14\n. \n. \nHope this helps.\n. \n"G"
Answer . the book says to \n. \ndisconnect the neg. on the battery. \n. \ndrain brake fluid from the reservoir with a clean syringe.\n. \nraise and support the vehicle. \n. \nmark at least one stud and hole on the rim so you put the rim back on the same way. \n. \nremove the tire and wheel …assembly.\n. \nremove the caliper: using a large C-clamp put it over the caliper so it is on the caliper housing and the other end is on the outside brake pad. \n. \nSlowly tighten the C-clamp until the pistons are pushed into the caliper bore enough to slide the caliper off the rotor. \n. \nusing the proper wrench remove the caliper mounting bolts then pull the caliper from the mounting bracket and rotor.\n. \nuse a coat hanger to hang the caliper from the strut. Dont let it hang by the brake line.\n. \ninspect your rotor for any grooves if need to have it resurfaced.\n. \nremove the outboard shoe by using a prybar to lift the retaining spring so it will clear the lug.\n. \nremove the inboard pad by unsnapping the pad from the caliper pistons.\n. \nto install repeat steps in reverse order.\n. \nand fill master cylinder. (MORE)
the easiest way is to pull the upper plenium, of course you want to replace the gaskets at this time as well.
Answer . \nRemove the caliper bolts, caliper mounting flange, rotor. Install new rotor. Remove pads from caliper, wire brush and clean all contact surface and hardware including caliper pins. Lubricate all of them with disc caliper grease. Note how you removed everything so it goes back corr…ectly. Torque down pins. Gently brake for first 50-100 stops. (MORE)
Go to Autozone.com enter your vehicle type, year and engine type on the left side. Click Repair Info, then vehicle repair guides. They have step by step instructions for a 98 Malibu along with torque specs and all.
Answer . \nNo, no lifting required. If you remove the intake duct, the air cleaner and housing, it's pretty easy to get at and change. Just as a precaution, it's a good idea to disconnect the negative battery cable before you do just about anything under the hood of a Monte.
Lift the vehicle on a car jack, remove the tire, remove the brakeshoe/caliper, and remove and properly dispose of the old brake pad.Put in a new brake pad, replace the brake shoe/caliper, replace thetire, tighten the nuts, lower the vehicle to the ground.
Answer . \nGenerally you will need basic metric wrenches, and metric sockets and possibly a torx head socket on some models. Also jackstands and hydraulic jack.
Take off Front 2 wheels behind the caliper you will see 2 bolts take off the caliper .. you need a special tool compress the caliper snap the new pads in lube them up and bolt back on the caliper ... easy as pie
Break the torque on the lugnuts on the wheel you're replacing the pads on, chock the wheels you're not jacking up, jack up the car, support it with a jack stand and remove the wheel. For the front pads: The caliper will have two mounting bolts, one near the top and one near the bottom. They may be… on the back side of the caliper, so look around for them. Remove them and tap the caliper off the rotor with a plastic or rubber mallet. Make sure you do NOT remove or loosen the banjo bolt on the top that connects the brake line to the caliper. Pay close attention to how the current pads are installed, many calipers use two different pads on each side, or one pad that's different per side. Either use a flathead screwdriver between the two pads as a lever to push the caliper pistons back in, or else you can use a C-clamp to clamp the pistons back in once you remove the pads, just cover it with a shop rag first so you don't mar the piston. You need to do this because the new pads will be significantly thicker than the old ones, so the caliper won't slide over the rotor with the new pads unless the pistons have been pushed in first, and the new pads themselves might not even fit in together, depending on how worn the old pads were. Remove the old pads. They may just fall right out, or may be clipped to the caliper. Either way they should pull or slide off without much fuss. Once the old pads are out and the pistons are pushed flush with the caliper face (or close to it), apply a small amount of high-temp brake parts grease (should be a freebie with purchase of the pads, or else can be purchased at the auto parts counter for a dollar or so) to the contact surfaces on the BACKS of the new pads (be careful not to get any grease on the pad face) and install the pads the same way the old ones were installed. The grease here isn't necessary, but it keeps things quiet, and there's no point in not doing it since you need the grease for the bolts anyway. Apply a thin coating of brake parts grease to the unthreaded portion of the two bolts you removed to pull the caliper, slide the caliper back over the rotor the same way it came off, then line it up with the bolt holes and slide the mounting bolts back in, threading them by hand first to make sure they don't cross thread. Torque them down to spec, or as tight as you can reasonably make them if you don't have the torque specs handy. Brake system fasteners are typically very strong, and can take a decent amount of torque. The rear pads on the Monte Carlo are actually a little more simple. There's only one pad, and the caliper moves on a special type of bolt. The general procedure is the same, just make sure you get grease on the slide bolts. After the calipers are back on the rotor, it's a good idea to take the opportunity to bleed the brake system, since you're already right there anyway. Not absolutely necessary, though, as long as braking feel was fairly consistent before. Be sure to take it easy for the first few braking attempts, as the calipers could take a few pedal depressions to fit the pistons to the new pads against the rotor, and the pads themselves will take a few miles to bed in. (MORE)
Answer . If it is the rear brakes, you will need one of these, a socket wrench and a large 'C' clamp. Get yourself a haynes manual or similar, that'll tell you what to do!. http://www.autobarn.net/lis28600.html. Actually , you need a hex bit 8 mm.. I edited , for you should have the C clamp as… well. and a 8 mm hex bit . to help close the caliper before installing the new pads... . http://media.digikey.com/photosWihamfg713%20three%20eighth%20series.jpg http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/partlist_Brake-Specialty-Tools_N3479_T|GRP2007__Ampro%20DISC%20BRAKE%20WRENCH%208MM%20___#storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&searchTerm=Ampro+DISC+BRAKE+WRENCH+8MM+&beginIndex=0&vehicleId=298695&category=T|GRP2007&keywords=Brake-Specialty-Tools&partType=N3479&facetFields=mfrName_exact%2CpriceBucket&sortBy=0&pageSize=20 Any auto part store should have it. (MORE)
A size 14 scket or wrench, and a medium sized C clamp to compress piston in caliper
Changing the brake light switch in your Chevrolet Monte Carlo isquite simple. The brake light switch simply plugs in and out.
I just did this today and the "special" tools I found I needed were: a 7mm hexagonal (six-sided) bit socket (one that will fit onto a ratchet...there isn't enough room to use a hexagonal head screw driver) and that's really it. I assume that you have a ratchet set with metric sockets, brake lube, pa…ds etc. This is an easy job don't worry. (MORE)
I always use a c clamp to compress the caliper and a 3/8 socket set. Some autos have Allen head bolts holding them so a large set of those would be handy. Large screwdriver for prying, rubber mallet, and a pair of pliers.
Advance Auto - The pads are about 30 bucks, the rotors about 70 for both, so 100 bucks atleast for parts. As for labor, depends where you go. I'd do it for 1 hours labor @50 bucks. Getting it at a shop, expect to pay anywhere from 150 to 250, again depending on where you go.
Remove wheel then calapse caliper with a screwdrive. Remove caliper has two 15mm. bolts.Pads will slide out don not remove clips to hold pads in. Put new pads in and put caliper back on.
Yes, but I'd say they took the whole car. However i don't know if they were recalled.
Changing your own front brake pads can save hundreds of dollars.Tools needed for the job are a jack, the brake pads, lug wrench,socket wrench, and brake fluid.
In order to change the brake pads, the tools needed are a floorjack, jack stand, tire iron, metric wrench set, small wire bristledbrush, mechanic's acid brush, large channel locks, screwdriver,torque wrench and metric socket set. You will also need brakelubricant and two bricks.
7 mm Allen Wrench . 8" Needle Nose Pliers . C-Clamp . Flat Head Screw Driver . Hydraulic Jack . Jack Stands . Ratcheting Socket Wrench . Tire Iron . Torque Wrench . Turkey Baster Full instructions using these tools at http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-2005-2007-Ford-Focus-Front-Brak…e-Rotors/3095/1 (MORE)
To change the brake pads on a 1991 Chevrolet Caprice, you will need some tools. You're going to need a c-clamp, a hex key or Allen wrench to remove the calipers, and a wrench to bleed the lines.
Firstly a Set of axle stands, A jack and a special allen/torx key.. Place the fiesta on axle stand then proceed to remove the wheel.. You should remove the spring clip then, slacken and remove the guide pin bolts there behind the rubber covers need to use allen/torx tool here, the caliper should s…wing up at which point you remove the brake pads.. before fitting the new pads you will need to move the brake piston back this can be done with a clamp and a bit of muscle be sure to open the brake fluid reservoir cap in the engine bay. after the piston has been moved back you can place the pads in and retighten everything.. Note: if the brake piston will not go back then try loosening the bleed nipple on the caliper it usually works.. Disclaime.I am not responsible for the stupid things you may do to mess up your brake systems. (MORE)
Remove the tire and wheel. Remove the brake pad springs andhardware. Remove the brake rotor. Reverse the process to installthe new brake and rotor.
You'll of course need a jack and a lug wrench to remove the wheel. A 14 mm socket and/or 14 mm open end wrench to remove upper caliper bolt. You may need some anti-seize or WD-40 to break the caliper bolt free. If after using either of these, the caliper bolt still won't break free, use a steel pipe… on the end of your wrench to give you greater leverage. Do not use the pipe when tightening the caliper bolt. Use a "C" clamp for compressing the brake piston since its been extended by your brake system hydraulics to fit the worn out pad; this will give you plenty of room to install the fat new pad. You'll need a torque wrench to torque the caliper bolt to 25 ft. lbs when you reinstall it. Also use the torque wrench to torque your wheel lugs to 76 ft. lbs for stock wheels or as recommended by manufacturer for aftermarket wheels. you'll need the same tools to do the rear pads, except you will substitute 17mm socket and wrench where you previously used a 14mm. (MORE)
2006 Honda Element. Jack, lug wrench, 12mm socket, 8mm socket or wrench, 4" C Clamp. Break lug nuts, jack up vehicle to where tire is barely off the ground, loosen and remove caliper bolts on inside of caliper, break bleed valve bolt with 8mm socket or wrench, (brake fluid should start to bleed out …a little bit) slide caliper off of pads and rest in a place that does not put strain on the brake lines, remove old pads from rotor, slide new pads in to place, open C clamp and put male end inside caliper opening and the other end on the backside of the caliper, slowly close until caliper sleeve has receded flush with the surface of the caliper, remove c clamp and slip caliper assembly back over new pads, replace caliper bolts and tighten accordingly. Helps to have another person for this next pary...Turn the key until just before it turns over or you can start the vehicle if you like, slowly push the brake pedal to the floor, when all the way down tighten bleed valve with 8mm socket or wrench, replace tire, tighten all lug nuts until tire spins slightly, lower jack, finish tightening lug nuts the rest of the way. Move to next tire, repeat. (MORE)
The best way is to pressure was the entire underside of the vechical to get all the slat & sand off before you work on it. No need to have all the rust and salt falling into your eyes as you work. Spray averything down with Fluid Film to loosen any rust or corrosion, let it sit for a few days. … then jack up the truck, block the axcels for it does not fall and crush you while you work. Buy the brand new set of brake pads from me that I dont need because I sold my GMC/Chevys and just install them. Raybestos BruteStop Series BD369M Front Disc Brake Pad Set Just $40 Capt@WickedGoodOutdoors.com Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_change_front_brake_pads_on_a_1999_GMC_Suburban#ixzz1mGiU0UKk (MORE)
Take off the tire for easy access ,loose the set nut on the peice your replacing but just a litte,take the nut off the tie rod end. Probably has a cotter pin you need to remove first "use a new one when putting back together if possible"take off nut that holds the end on the arm .have a loaner tool …to remove the tie rod end or you can take two hammers and hit the topof both sides of the tie rod end at the same time this will pop loose tapered bolt going thru the hole .now hold the tie rod and turn of the end "counting" the turns and put the new one one the same number of turns.should eliminate the need for front end alighnment. Grease the new one if it has a greas zerk if not don't worry about it .turn the new one .place the end thru the hole and tighten very snug"remember it is tapered so tighten it good put in the cotter pin and bend it. Tighten the loking nut againt the new end you just put on .install tire don't forget to use a good jack stand (MORE)
Replacing Disc Brake Pads . Caution *** . Older brake pads or shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially avai…lable brake cleaner fluid. . Print . 1. To avoid overflowing of the master cylinder when the caliper pistons are pressed into the caliper cylinder bores, siphon or dip some brake fluid out of the large reservoir.. 2. Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands.. 3. Remove the wheels.. 4. Place a suitable C-clamp on the caliper and, with the clamp bearing on the outer pad, tighten the clamp to bottom the caliper pistons in the cylinder bores. Remove the C-clamp.. 5. Loosen and remove the caliper retaining bolts. Torx T-40 or T-45. 6. Lift the caliper off the rotor.. Ã¨ Do not allow the caliper to hand by the brake hose.. 7. Remove the brake pads and anti-rattle spring.. To install:. 8. Thoroughly clean the areas of the caliper and spindle assembly which contacts each other during the sliding action of the caliper.. 9. Place a new anti-rattle clip on the lower end of the inboard shoe. Make sure that the tabs on the clip are positioned correctly and the loop-type spring is away from the rotor.. 10. Place the lower end of the inner brake pad in the spindle assembly pad abutment, against the anti-rattle clip, and slide the upper end of the pad into position. Be sure that the clip is still in position.. 11. Check and make sure that the caliper piston is fully bottomed in the cylinder bore. Use a large C-clamp to bottom the piston, if necessary.. 12. Position the outer brake pad on the caliper, and press the pad tabs into place with your fingers. If the pad cannot be pressed into place by hand, use a C-clamp. Be careful not to damage the lining with the clamp. Bend the tabs to prevent rattling.. 13. Position the caliper on the spindle assembly. Lightly lubricate the caliper sliding pins with suitable grease.. 14. Position the caliper pins into the caliper anchor plate.. 15. Tighten the caliper pins to 16-30 ft.lbs. [22-40Nm] on 1997-98 F-250HD, F350 and F-Super Duty models. Tighten the caliper pins to 21-26 ft.lbs. [28-36 Nm] on the F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator. Tighten the caliper pins to 42 ft.lbs. [56 Nm] on the 1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models.. 16. Install the wheels.. 17. Lower the vehicle.. 18. Pump the brake pedal a few times to build adequate pressure in the brake system and check the fluid level in the master cylinder. (MORE)
No special tool. half inch socket and a 13mm. if you have a C-clamp or something to push the calibar back that's all ya need.
A ratchet with socket to remove brake caliper bolts, large C clamp to compress the caliper piston to aid removal and installation of brake pads, bungee cord or other means to support caliper after its removal ( don't let it hang by the brake line) Can of brake cleaner if you want to clean the brake …system..... wear a mouth and nose dust mask to prevent inhalation of brake dust... Torque wrench set at 100 lbs to properly torque wheel lug nuts (MORE)
You need a wrench 21 mm (metric) to remove lug nuts, a durable screw driver to pray pads out, a metal brush to remove dirt, a bid C-clamp or a special caliper compressor to push the caliper cylinder back (~$10-$15 in Advance Auto Parts), a hummer just in case, and high temperature grease.
common metric socket set, brake fluid, brake pads, some of that brake quiet crap auto zone always give you, heavy duty flat head.... a jack, and a little know how, and time
The caliper bolts are 13 mm, so use a socket or wrench, if not too tight. a "C" clamp works well to push the caliper piston back into the caliper housing. That's it, change the pads and put back together. Also, best to use some brake cleaner to clean the old brake pad dust from the caliper and rotor…, and should use some lub on the new pads at all points that contact the caliper. Have the rotor turned if they seem to be scored, if not don't turn them. Turning the rotors will thin the surface, making them more prone to heat warping. (MORE)
You will need a big screwdriver or small prybar, a small hammer, a large "C" clamp and a size 3/8" Allen wrench.
took off all oil pan bolts, ac condenser, starter, serpentine, anchor and still will not budge, any ideas?